What do you tow with your HHR?
05-20-2013, 07:45 PM
#1
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: 11-25-2009
Location: NH
Posts: 151
What do you tow with your HHR?
I did a search, but not a lot of pics or ongoing threads dedicated to towing.
Anyways. I sold a bigger boat in order to build a smaller boat to keep in step with the 1000lb weight limit on HHRs With boat, trailer and motor, I am at 700lbs. The 2.4/auto HHR tows with no issues.
The boat is a just restored 1982 14' Smoker Craft Alaskan with a New Karavan trailer, and a 1994 15hp Johnson that I just restored too. I have 160 to 200 hours in it, and glad it is over. Now we can just enjoy the summer on it.
Before
After
And of course. Being towed.
Anyways. I sold a bigger boat in order to build a smaller boat to keep in step with the 1000lb weight limit on HHRs With boat, trailer and motor, I am at 700lbs. The 2.4/auto HHR tows with no issues.
The boat is a just restored 1982 14' Smoker Craft Alaskan with a New Karavan trailer, and a 1994 15hp Johnson that I just restored too. I have 160 to 200 hours in it, and glad it is over. Now we can just enjoy the summer on it.
Before
After
And of course. Being towed.
05-20-2013, 10:20 PM
#3
Senior Member
Join Date: 08-26-2008
Location: Sequim Washington
Posts: 1,488
Big improvement over your old boat.
See you put a Doel Finn on your 15..... Good move.
Whats with the extra long trailer tounge? Do you have shallow launch ramps?
Karavan makes a pretty nice small boat trailer. There out here on the west coast too but Ez Loader has about 90% of the business in these parts.
Just a suggestion and it comes from a small boat Pro ...
Use Johnson/Evinrude XD-50 outboard oil @50/1 for the best results and longivity.
Also use Premium 91+ Octane fuel in your outboards.
Do not use fuel over 6 months old ... Period.
Add Johnson 2+4 fuel stabilizer to fresh fuel for longer fuel life.
It can be mixed for summer use, or 1 year storage use, but only add to all fresh fuel.
Best to always use a tank dry and then refill so you don't keep adding fresh fuel to old fuel.
Without a Tach you are flying blind, but I would guess you would use a 9.25 X 11 stock pitch or with a larger load use a 9.25 X 10 prop.
Your motor depending on model year came with either a OMC or BRP aluminum prop and If an OMC, it with have a removalable/replaceable diffuser ring at the exhaust hub exit.
It will also be a Semi Weedless propeller blade design which is good for fishing in weedy/grassy areas. It also has a Patented built in line cutter that will save your lower unit seal if line gets wrapped tightly around your propeller.
If its a BRP propeller approx 2000 and newer, it will be a different prop design with out the same exact features and blade design. Each prop design has it's own benefits and if you tell me how you will be using your boat I might be able to help guide you to the right/best preforming prop.
P.S. I tow my boat with a 2011 2LT Black as well.
Curt Hitch and 5"riser ball mount with a 2" Curt Stainless Steel ball.
SF
See you put a Doel Finn on your 15..... Good move.
Whats with the extra long trailer tounge? Do you have shallow launch ramps?
Karavan makes a pretty nice small boat trailer. There out here on the west coast too but Ez Loader has about 90% of the business in these parts.
Just a suggestion and it comes from a small boat Pro ...
Use Johnson/Evinrude XD-50 outboard oil @50/1 for the best results and longivity.
Also use Premium 91+ Octane fuel in your outboards.
Do not use fuel over 6 months old ... Period.
Add Johnson 2+4 fuel stabilizer to fresh fuel for longer fuel life.
It can be mixed for summer use, or 1 year storage use, but only add to all fresh fuel.
Best to always use a tank dry and then refill so you don't keep adding fresh fuel to old fuel.
Without a Tach you are flying blind, but I would guess you would use a 9.25 X 11 stock pitch or with a larger load use a 9.25 X 10 prop.
Your motor depending on model year came with either a OMC or BRP aluminum prop and If an OMC, it with have a removalable/replaceable diffuser ring at the exhaust hub exit.
It will also be a Semi Weedless propeller blade design which is good for fishing in weedy/grassy areas. It also has a Patented built in line cutter that will save your lower unit seal if line gets wrapped tightly around your propeller.
If its a BRP propeller approx 2000 and newer, it will be a different prop design with out the same exact features and blade design. Each prop design has it's own benefits and if you tell me how you will be using your boat I might be able to help guide you to the right/best preforming prop.
P.S. I tow my boat with a 2011 2LT Black as well.
Curt Hitch and 5"riser ball mount with a 2" Curt Stainless Steel ball.
SF
05-23-2013, 06:12 PM
#8
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: 11-25-2009
Location: NH
Posts: 151
Big improvement over your old boat.
See you put a Doel Finn on your 15..... Good move.
Whats with the extra long trailer tounge? Do you have shallow launch ramps?
Karavan makes a pretty nice small boat trailer. There out here on the west coast too but Ez Loader has about 90% of the business in these parts.
Just a suggestion and it comes from a small boat Pro ...
Use Johnson/Evinrude XD-50 outboard oil @50/1 for the best results and longivity.
Also use Premium 91+ Octane fuel in your outboards.
Do not use fuel over 6 months old ... Period.
Add Johnson 2+4 fuel stabilizer to fresh fuel for longer fuel life.
It can be mixed for summer use, or 1 year storage use, but only add to all fresh fuel.
Best to always use a tank dry and then refill so you don't keep adding fresh fuel to old fuel.
Without a Tach you are flying blind, but I would guess you would use a 9.25 X 11 stock pitch or with a larger load use a 9.25 X 10 prop.
Your motor depending on model year came with either a OMC or BRP aluminum prop and If an OMC, it with have a removalable/replaceable diffuser ring at the exhaust hub exit.
It will also be a Semi Weedless propeller blade design which is good for fishing in weedy/grassy areas. It also has a Patented built in line cutter that will save your lower unit seal if line gets wrapped tightly around your propeller.
If its a BRP propeller approx 2000 and newer, it will be a different prop design with out the same exact features and blade design. Each prop design has it's own benefits and if you tell me how you will be using your boat I might be able to help guide you to the right/best preforming prop.
P.S. I tow my boat with a 2011 2LT Black as well.
Curt Hitch and 5"riser ball mount with a 2" Curt Stainless Steel ball.
SF
See you put a Doel Finn on your 15..... Good move.
Whats with the extra long trailer tounge? Do you have shallow launch ramps?
Karavan makes a pretty nice small boat trailer. There out here on the west coast too but Ez Loader has about 90% of the business in these parts.
Just a suggestion and it comes from a small boat Pro ...
Use Johnson/Evinrude XD-50 outboard oil @50/1 for the best results and longivity.
Also use Premium 91+ Octane fuel in your outboards.
Do not use fuel over 6 months old ... Period.
Add Johnson 2+4 fuel stabilizer to fresh fuel for longer fuel life.
It can be mixed for summer use, or 1 year storage use, but only add to all fresh fuel.
Best to always use a tank dry and then refill so you don't keep adding fresh fuel to old fuel.
Without a Tach you are flying blind, but I would guess you would use a 9.25 X 11 stock pitch or with a larger load use a 9.25 X 10 prop.
Your motor depending on model year came with either a OMC or BRP aluminum prop and If an OMC, it with have a removalable/replaceable diffuser ring at the exhaust hub exit.
It will also be a Semi Weedless propeller blade design which is good for fishing in weedy/grassy areas. It also has a Patented built in line cutter that will save your lower unit seal if line gets wrapped tightly around your propeller.
If its a BRP propeller approx 2000 and newer, it will be a different prop design with out the same exact features and blade design. Each prop design has it's own benefits and if you tell me how you will be using your boat I might be able to help guide you to the right/best preforming prop.
P.S. I tow my boat with a 2011 2LT Black as well.
Curt Hitch and 5"riser ball mount with a 2" Curt Stainless Steel ball.
SF
The two reasons for the trailer being so long is that I wanted a trailer wide enough to put the fenders on the outside of the boat to not only step on, but for stability reasons on the road. As far as the length, I do not want the HHR in the water at all. And the trailer with 56" between the fenders comes 21' long. So I had to take it this way to get it that wide.
The Johnson is a very low hour 1994 manual tiller. I had been purchased new in 94, but sit unused in it's crate til 2004. The reason was, the motor was bought for a home made duck boat. It took 10 years for the guy to build the boat. I got it because he decided he wanted a 4 stroke 15hp Yamaha. I had the carb rebuilt, and I replaced the Water pump kit, and put in fresh plugs. Impeller and plugs looked fine, but better be safe than sorry.
I have a tank of fuel that was fresh with the motor when I picked it up in January. But I will not use it, the tank, or fuel line with the rebuilt carb. I purchased a new tank, and line. And I have been using Merc Quicksilver 2 cycle.
I have the same Curt hitch. It came with riser ball mount, 2" ball, and wire harness for $130 shipped.
05-23-2013, 09:52 PM
#9
Senior Member
Join Date: 08-26-2008
Location: Sequim Washington
Posts: 1,488
IMPALADKID,
Wow what a find on your motor. I would mention one thing about the 93/94/95/96 Engine covers/hoods.
They use a different rear cover latch then the 97 and up to ... 2007 .. the last year of that engines production.
It is not nearly as durable as the later models.
I would do 2 things to protect yourself from failure and possible problems down the road.
1. I would be careful when lifting your motor to the tilt position .. don't jerk hard or make fast moves to reduce the strain on the hood.
2. You might want to purchase some spare parts for the latching mechanizm while they are still available.
Go to boats.net to buy them.
Good move on the trailer too.
Silverfox
Wow what a find on your motor. I would mention one thing about the 93/94/95/96 Engine covers/hoods.
They use a different rear cover latch then the 97 and up to ... 2007 .. the last year of that engines production.
It is not nearly as durable as the later models.
I would do 2 things to protect yourself from failure and possible problems down the road.
1. I would be careful when lifting your motor to the tilt position .. don't jerk hard or make fast moves to reduce the strain on the hood.
2. You might want to purchase some spare parts for the latching mechanizm while they are still available.
Go to boats.net to buy them.
Good move on the trailer too.
Silverfox