I will agree with the sol/sky people...it is like having a different car it pulls HARD..mine might be a bit too much trq it spins the tires in second at will when it comes on boost. We will let you know as soon as BSR gives the OK.

 

I have seen this basic chart a couple of places, and I think it is the BSR tune. A/F is steady, so the injectors can handle the extra fuel flow required at high boost. Obviously 26 lbs at 3500 means major torque increase. The engine is very strong, I would say go easy on the trans and clutch though (IMHO). Green lines are stock boost and after tune. Red is A/F stock and after tune (ignore the 17, that is artifact of lean at fuel cutoff at redline).

 

[QUOTE=c2vette;264783]I have seen this basic chart a couple of places, and I think it is the BSR tune. A/F is steady, so the injectors can handle the extra fuel flow required at high boost. Obviously 26 lbs at 3500 means major torque increase. The engine is very strong, I would say go easy on the trans and clutch though (IMHO). Green lines are stock boost and after tune. Red is A/F stock and after tune (ignore the 17, that is artifact of lean at fuel cutoff at redline).

Both the Westers and BSR are good tunes and are quite reliable when used
with proper high octane fuel. I have talked to research labs working on various versions of turbo ecotecs and at stock boost levels, the LNF engine
is loafing along. I can email to this group a couple of pages of a SAE paper
on the LNF motor where they talk about things like salt chamber pistons and their oil circulating channels which lower piston temps. paper says it was
done for future performance increases. Similar comments made in fuel flow
section of paper. Engineers at these R&D centers have 450 hp versions
of LNF running with good results.
Of course, anything can happen but I would feel very good about either
of these tunes that add "only" 60-70 hp

turbofreak

 

I would like to understand the difference between swapping ecu's and using a programmer. Sounds a lot like having two ecu's, one with the stock and one with the HOT. Versus saving over the stock with the HOT then, the reverse with the BSR tuner? Is there more to it than this? I am confused here.

 

The difference is the dealer can look at your stock ecm that you flashed
with a BSR tuner back to stock and he can count the number of times it has
been flashed. The program WILL be stock but it will show 3 flashes, the initial
GM flash, the BSR flash, and the return to stock flash. He will look in records
for your VIN and ask what are the other flashes since the records show he or
another dealer did not do it.

turbofreak

 

It use to be that the mech number was not made available to dealers, but you are saying that they can see then number now. The mech number is an 8 bit number that counts the number of times the ECU was flashed with either code or calibration tables though this can vary. When the number hits 255, the ECU would lock and could only be reset by a very special tool.

I read not long ago that GM is cracking down on warranty claims caused by ECU modifications. This may be the first step of many to come.

GM can also tell if the current ECU was the original ECU.

 

Remember they would have to prove that the mod caused the failure....and at the same time if you do an upgrade then go out and beat the hell out of it and break some thing its not the cars or GM's fault...its yours.

 

Crazysteve....

You are essentially correct regarding, "they would have to prove.....". But remember, they ONLY have to prove AFTER they have DENIED YOUR WARRANTY WORK AND YOU HAVE HIRED AN ATTORNEY TO FIGHT THE ISSUE. So, be prepared to use another vehicle or drive the vehicle impaired until your dispute is resolved.

MY POINT IS......most people THINK the M-M ACT is automatic...it is instituted at the TIME OF DENIAL OF WARRANTY SERVICE. When in fact, if the act is valid for your situation it may be several days, weeks, months down the road. What do you do, till then?

Been there, done that.

You need to use some judgement and responsibility.

 

My main point is take some responsibility for your own actions...if you break it, its your fault

 

Yeah Steve...I caught your last sentence. But, I thought I would add that little "tidbit" because of the infamous "need to prove ......" statement, everyone uses (and thinks) without knowing what it is in entirety.

Maybe should add one other "tidbit".....

I understand that the ECM is NOT THE ONLY electronic component that provides the tattletale information to GM. There is some redundancies from other modules that the Tech II searches to reveal tampering (and GM is NOT revealing....even to the dealers.....how it is done).

So, again IF you do something, be very careful regarding a warranty claim.

Just my .02 because I don't wish to see people get "burned".