If you can't follow the lines and read the titles on a diagram stop messing with the electrical system before you do real damage (like fire).

 

The fusible link (if that's what it is) is between the starter and alternator, so would not cause a no crank, or no start, condition. It would cause a not charging condition.


So some of the possibilities include


Crank fuse #5, underhood

Crank relay #34, underhood

Ignition switch

clutch pedal position sensor


There are many others.


Going back to your first post, you changed the shifter cables. Did you take apart the fuse block for access, or were you able to do it all from underneath? And what do you mean by roll pins?


No open recalls means all work has been done. So the ignition switch is less likely.

 

I checked all fuses they have continuity, as for relays none seem to be clicking upon turning the key anymore. The only sound is the fuel pump priming in accessory (sometimes I have to turn it off then accessory for it to engage), and every time I turn the key to start the pump primes again but still no other sounds. I had the fuse box taken out a number of times, checking the pins, looking for loose wires, everything looks fine. As for roll pins I mean for the shift lever gear selectors (whatever they are) where the shift linkage snaps onto. I had to take them out, replace the levers and the pins, then the cables. Car started after all that, started again but then I stalled it. After doing this electrical cleaning I get no clicks from starter or relays, but everything works

 

Everything is put back the way I took it apart, diagrams or not. Even compared to my LT and done extensive research to ensure I don't blow the thing up. Before I did anything with the wiring I did research just to be safe and aware of how it's supposed to go.

 

What I don't get it why the starter and relays are no longer clicking even with everything back the way it was to begin with. The pump priming twice makes no sense to me. The car doesn't start in any gear, but does seem to realize the neutral position. I've read about an emergency fuel shut off in case of accidents or sudden stalls in rare cases, could this be the case? However the engine should still attempt to crank, but not if the starter isn't being told to. Is any of this possibly related to such a switch

 

On my Malibu and my HHR LT on the positive starter post theres a small red wire (positive) and a big black ground wire, but from reading online that black wire shouldn't be on the positive but rather to the engine block close to the starter. Both my other cars don't have starter issues but maybe this is different and its not supposed to have the black wire with the positive? Read that could cause the fuel pump issue and starter not engaging

 

Forgot you mentioned fusible like, and after checking with a multimeter or whatever it is there's sufficient power for the starter/alternator wire, and the battery holds charge and doesn't drain (granted I leave the negative off the battery when I'm not working on it, or pretty much all the time)

 

You should not have a ground wire on any stud on the starter. On the one stud, you should have a large wire from the side post of the fuse block (battery positive) and a wire(should be red)that goes to the alternator. The other stud on the starter should be the purple wire that comes from inside the fuse block.

 

This is either my LT or Malibuu starter connection, but hooking up the SS the same doesn't work

 

This is my starter connections on my Malibu

This is my starter connections on the HHR SS, is there something I'm not noticing?