Someone locally is selling a 2008 SS and I'm looking at buying it. (I love my 2009 LT, but this is an SS. &#129315 Here's the info from the ad:

• 134,000 miles
• Automatic
• No CEL (I have a code reader, so I'll verify)
• New Turbo
• New Delco Camshaft Actuator Solenoids
• New spark plugs (Iridium)
• Flushed intercooler and piping after new turbo install

Anything specific that I should look out for? Exterior looks clean except some paint peeling on the front bumper cover.

 

What does "flushed intercooler and piping" mean? How do you flush an air tube? What happened to the old turbo, that is low mileage. Ask if it has the GM turbo upgrade, the tip off is a sticker in the fuel filler that says "97 octane REQUIRED" vs "recommended.
Check for recalls , link in my sig. Make sure it is a real SS, there are a lot of fakes out there.
I would look at the ball joints, If they have ever been replaced the chances are they are wrong. You can tell if the ball joint stud is loose in the steering knuckles.
While there; check the LCA bushings. The LCAs should be cast aluminum not pressed steel.

 

Great info as always Don. Thank you.
The VIN checks out as an SS. All recalls (3) are completed. According to the seller, there was a bad seal in the turbo and he decided to just replace the entire thing. (sounds like something I would do.) Glad you brought up the premium fuel. I didn't realize that the SS needs premium. Makes sense, but didn't cross my mind. Might be rethinking if the fun factor is worth an extra $6 per tank.

 

Oh it’s worth it, the factory recommended premium 91 octane, look for a sticker in the fuel door that says must use 91 octane, that would be a GM stage 1 turbo upgrade
look real close at the LCA’s as Donbrew mentioned the SS ball joints are a 20 mm stub and the fake fits all are 19 mm this causes a thunk and broken steering knuckles. If it has Brembo front brakes those would be aftermarket add on, automatic transmission didn’t have them but they did have 11.6” front rotors, if the rotors look smaller and have drilled and grooved surfaces they most likely are 10.6” LS/LT aftermarket, wrong for the SS . Take photos and we can help you out with that. There are other things but not really deal breakers.

 

At the risk of someone swooping in and buying it first... J/K Here's the ad.

 

Very nice, I see blue Bosch Tmap upgrade pieces on the intake . Go for it ! Nice SS

 

For some reason I have 97 in my memory.

 

Probably needs a reboot.

While you have your code reader hooked up, also look at the I/M readiness monitors. If they're not all green/ready/good to go, then codes have been cleared recently and there's probably an issue.

At that mileage, good chance that the valves are coked, a compression test is a good first step at diagnosing.

 

Looking at the ad, the shroud above the condenser is gone. He claims 30 mpg on the freeway. Stock, yes. But this has been performance tuned, so very unlikely. I guess maybe if you granny it, never entering boost condition.

 

A few 2008's had the "porous block" problem. Look very cafefully for evidence of coolant in the oil, oil in the coolant. Look inside the pressure cap, on the dipstick, inside the oil cap. The resulting sludge could be the reason for the new solenoids. The fear of this problem is probably overblown, but it diminishes the value of 2008 LNF's.

Pay close attention to the transmission. It was not exactly overkill for that motor.

Since it seems to have the MAP sensors for the GM Turbo Upgrade (GMTU,) see if they're installed with the "pigtails," a later improvement, or spliced with a crimp connector. If crimped, those connections should be re-made and soldered, to avoid problems caused by varying resistance in those connections.

It the turbo seals gave it up, it prolly had oil or coolant in those pipes, or much worse, both. I'm not sure highlighting the need to "flush" is the best sales strategy.

According to Carfax, my turbo was replace twice under warranty.