foolmoon_design

Unless they have done a bunch of them..... and with the know problems with the "older" pig tails. They could keep the car all day as long as they get it right the first time. 2 hours is steep for the new plug-and-play, but there is time for re-flash, and testing. an hour seems likely.

hyperv6

It will be an hour min. The lower tube still needs to come out and be mod. The flash sill be an hour charge no matter what

Even with the slices a good should have not been much over an hour with the rift tools and knowing what to do.

Most dealers we see here were training on the job and that is why it took longer.

07azhhr

I used to be a GM service tech and I will agree that sometimes the "book time" is way more but sometimes it is TOO LITTLE. The techs are paid based on the hours that they can flag so it DOES get frustrating when you know that the book is short. But then you make up for it by resealing a 3.4/3.1 lower intake manifold in 1.5 hrs but get paid 4.5-6.

What I noticed was that warranty book time seemed to be based on a tech using a lift and air/power tools. While non warranty seemed to be more like an average joe with no lift using hand tools. This is a big reason techs hate warranty work.

firemangeorge

I thought only the new sensor had to be trimmed for the install on the lower tube. Could you elaborate on why the tube has to come out? Also I did a check of holding the new sensor in place and it seems I won't have any clearance problems. Thanks.

foolmoon_design

I can speak from experience on this.... the pipe comes out to add the lower T-map, it is a pain in the ass to get to, and can't be put in with the AC in the way from the top.

hyperv6

Yep the lower T map is a pain and needs trimed. It also has to be spaced correctly as if the tube is back too far it can hit the AC under hard acceleration. In some cases they need to shim the IC forward too.

Keep in mind when the engine is under a load it moves up and back on the tube. I figure many will have issues as engine mounts wear and what clears now will not clear 100,000 miles from now.

Most of the install time will be in the lower pipe as the harness is only a few min job to change. The key is to use the proper Kent Moore crimp tool. I suspect many that have had issues did not use the proper crimp tool. My dealer used the correct one and nary an issue. they even have a special tool to open them back up.

With flat rate often the tech will use what is close and if the proper tool is not there he will just use the normal crimp tool with poor results.

foolmoon_design

This! Hyper is right,
now that mounts are getting squishy there is gonna be some hitting. In my case I ended up turning the t-map around 180* so the pig tails went toward the radiator, giving me around 1" all the way around, and the way the motor flexes, it moves the T-map down and away from the radiator. I check this and the IC couplers every time I open the hood or put it on the ramps. I've had no chaffing, or rubbing. I have had to replace the E tape around the tails but thats it. Oh before you have the dealer turn your T-map around you will have to shim the IC and the radiator foward. min. 1/4" on IC. about 1-1.5" for the radiator. Hated haveing to do this, but been very happy and no issues. I'm pushing a solid 24psi and flexing into the AC was gonna be an issue.

firemangeorge

I'm still confused. Why does the tube need to come out? I've done a "dry run" on this by myself. I can get to the t-map from the top. I can get to the screws, no problem. I have the new plug-in harness so no splicing is needed. Am I missing something? Does the tube need some modification? The instruction sheet doesn't say anything about this, only about the trimming of the sensor tab.
Also I have the TTR mount which has tightened up the engine rocking.
I would love to do the work myself but because of the reflash issue I will have to rely on a dealer install. Just trying to get all the info I can before I head to the dealer. I'm hoping for a one time trouble free job. With you guys help and info I should be prepared.

firemangeorge

Bump on my own post. Still looking for a reply on this.

foolmoon_design

It may not have to come completly out, but the sensor nipple is fairly long, and you should at least undo one end. I don't envy the phillips from the top though, but if you say you can do it, who am I to say your not capable. The rubber hose comes loose pretty easy, knuckles are still an issue on the intake side. and then go at it from underneath.