new sway bars front and rear
#1
new sway bars front and rear
to start i wasn't sure if i should post this here or in the suspension section but it is an ss, i can post both places if anyone thinks i should.
just installed the suspension techniques 27mm front, 19mm rear (both solid) sway bars with new front end links. i did this on my back with jack stands in my garage with... the wife... (that went well). after i got the car on the jack stands the rear took about 7 minutes (very easy), however the front lost its fun pretty fast and took me about 3.5-4 hours. i did the work thursday night, took it to ntb to make sure everything was in good alignment (it wasn't). i also had them re-torque all my bolts. put about 200 miles on her over the weekend and re-torqued my bolts sunday night for the big drive monday where we went to southern west virginia and have racked over 800 miles since monday morning. (way too much driving)
anyway, to sum it up, night and day difference in the handling, she seems more responsive and has lost most of her roll in the corners.
thanks for reading guys
just installed the suspension techniques 27mm front, 19mm rear (both solid) sway bars with new front end links. i did this on my back with jack stands in my garage with... the wife... (that went well). after i got the car on the jack stands the rear took about 7 minutes (very easy), however the front lost its fun pretty fast and took me about 3.5-4 hours. i did the work thursday night, took it to ntb to make sure everything was in good alignment (it wasn't). i also had them re-torque all my bolts. put about 200 miles on her over the weekend and re-torqued my bolts sunday night for the big drive monday where we went to southern west virginia and have racked over 800 miles since monday morning. (way too much driving)
anyway, to sum it up, night and day difference in the handling, she seems more responsive and has lost most of her roll in the corners.
thanks for reading guys
#3
I'm not trying to poop on your parade, but the specs. I see for your frt. and rear bars, you went backwards for a FWD car[such as a SS]. Bar setup for a FWD car, is backwards from a RWD car. FWD cars like a smaller frt. bar, and a much bigger rear bar, not to mention stiffer springs, and big enough rubber to handle any wheelspin.
The bar setup you have now, with stock tires and springs, will have less body roll, but you will pick up more of a front end push[Front end push: where the front hits the wall first], and some serious drama at the limit.
Two of my good friends, Mike Meirs and Mary Pozzi[both well known SCCA autocross champions- see this months issue of Hot Rod] have schooled me in the art of going quick on a autocross course, in a FWD car. I have a stock frt. bar, and Powell Racing 1 1/4" rear bar, Pedders springs, and will be adding much bigger tire [to combat the wheelspin, due to Trifecta tune], and survey says, this setup works the best for available parts for the SS.
Also, in the winter climes in your area, cold pavement, cold stock tires, and the front end push your gonna have, just creep up on the turning ability, or your not gonna be happy.
Just trying to point out a few things, so your not surprised. "Moon"
The bar setup you have now, with stock tires and springs, will have less body roll, but you will pick up more of a front end push[Front end push: where the front hits the wall first], and some serious drama at the limit.
Two of my good friends, Mike Meirs and Mary Pozzi[both well known SCCA autocross champions- see this months issue of Hot Rod] have schooled me in the art of going quick on a autocross course, in a FWD car. I have a stock frt. bar, and Powell Racing 1 1/4" rear bar, Pedders springs, and will be adding much bigger tire [to combat the wheelspin, due to Trifecta tune], and survey says, this setup works the best for available parts for the SS.
Also, in the winter climes in your area, cold pavement, cold stock tires, and the front end push your gonna have, just creep up on the turning ability, or your not gonna be happy.
Just trying to point out a few things, so your not surprised. "Moon"
Last edited by moonsign; 12-08-2011 at 08:05 PM.
#4
Moon isn't always right....Ha Ha but this time he is, I had the TTR, front end pushed, Switched to Powell 1.25 Hardcore, goes around corners like it has a pivot foot, incredible difference, sorry I cant tell you it was cheaper. I can tell ya you won't miss the money ,,,, soon as you drive it. Been doing some data logs, the wider tires wont hold it either with all season tread. I think my summer compound will , but they suck in rain.
#5
i have to drive miles on gravel roads to get to my house and i can tell the difference on there night and day too (not a good thing). i know it's going to be more of a hassle in the winter climates, but it's still an improvement over stock. i appreciate the feedback, always happy to learn something new.
#6
also, i've been contemplating gm vs trifecta and i think i'm going to go trifecta after the winter, i know this will sound stupid but should i note the sway bar upgrade, i don't figure it will make a difference but i just thought someone might have a reason.
#8
hey moon, do you have blacked out bowties? i'd like to get some,if so, is there a company or brand you would suggest? i found some on ebay but i'm so reluctant to buy anything from there. my hhr is sunburst and i'm going to go with black head lights/tailights (and rims one day) also i was just going to paint over the "ss" emblems to make them black too. any suggestions?
#9
I used Black vynil[as in vynil lettering]. Go to a sign shop and buy about a foot of Black vynil, apply over emblem with squeege [no bubbles], then cut out around the edges with a razor knife. Quick and easy.
Anything else, I use 1 Shot enamel[since I am a sign painter, among other things]. "Moon"
Anything else, I use 1 Shot enamel[since I am a sign painter, among other things]. "Moon"