HHR SS Topics and information on the 2008-2010 Chevy HHR SS Turbocharged models.

Rear Caliper Emergency Brake Sticking

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Old Mar 9, 2023 | 07:27 AM
  #11  
m_ridzon's Avatar
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Originally Posted by Lonwane
I would not recommend WD-40 for this application as it not a lubricant.
Try PB Blaster or some other brand.
Originally Posted by firemangeorge
WD40 was just suggested as a spray to see if he could get it to loosen up. PB blaster may work if it’s rusted or corroded. PB blaster would not be a choice as a permanent lube.
No dice folks. I tried a penetrating oil/spray, on multiple separate occasions. It didn't help.
Originally Posted by greg8453
Do yourself a favor and replace it.
I did just replace it couple years ago (please re-read my initial post). It's barely broke in. There's no way it should be sticking already. So I imagine a replacement may do the same.
Originally Posted by lazaino
If you want to lube it, take it apart and apply white grease lithium very sparingly
From what I can tell in the thread, it seems like my only option is to take it off the car and dismantle it. I was hoping to avoid taking it off the car, but I guess I will have no choice.
Originally Posted by donbrew
I meant to yank on the cable while it is attached to the brake an parking brake off. If it does not have enough slack it won't disengage.
You can adjust them individually. Since it is the one replaced I can imagine there could be a difference.
It's not engaged at all, so I don't think it's a situation where the cable is too tight. The rotor spins freely and the hydraulic side of the caliper works perfect. Nevertheless, I'll check again.

Originally Posted by donbrew
Lay on the ground and look at the mechanism while your beautiful assistant operates the lever.
She's a stunning, sensational looker! I will definitely solicit her help!

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Old Mar 9, 2023 | 07:59 AM
  #12  
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Double check the caliper adjustment. If you turned the piston all the way into the caliper or it came like that, then you need to adjust the eBrake, you do that by removing the brake cable and activating the e brake lever to bring the piston out to the pads, sometimes 10 to 15 times.

Old Mar 9, 2023 | 08:24 AM
  #13  
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Wait a minute! How is it possible that "The rotor spins freely", if the brake is sticking?
To begin with disc brakes are supposed to drag a bit, they should not spin freely. Kinda sounds like the other side is not working, rather than this one sticking.

What happens when you drive and yank the parking brake? Straight, left or right.
Old Mar 9, 2023 | 08:38 AM
  #14  
m_ridzon's Avatar
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Originally Posted by donbrew
Wait a minute! How is it possible that "The rotor spins freely", if the brake is sticking?
I never said the hydraulic brake is sticking. Rather, I said the E-brake mechanism is sticking. The E-brake mechanism is stuck in the "released" position and will not clamp down when the cabin lever is pulled.
Old Mar 9, 2023 | 10:38 AM
  #15  
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Watch the video I posted to adjust the parking brake , that new caliper was installed but not adjusted properly.
Old Mar 9, 2023 | 02:31 PM
  #16  
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Originally Posted by Oldblue
Watch the video I posted to adjust the parking brake , that new caliper was installed but not adjusted properly.
I watched the video. However, I'm not sure that's my problem. The lever on my caliper doesn't move at all. It seems frozen. Nevertheless, I'll check it again.
Old Mar 9, 2023 | 02:55 PM
  #17  
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emergency brake function is sticky
you never said it does not engage, you implied the the parking brake stick on. I never said I thought there was a hydraulic problem.

Can you move the caliper lever by hand/with a tool? If you can then it IS the cable, if you can't it IS something involving the caliper. Simple.
Old Mar 9, 2023 | 03:29 PM
  #18  
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Post #4 don, I missed it too.
Old Feb 11, 2024 | 08:03 AM
  #19  
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I finally got time to look at this. Lo and behold, there was a bunch of corrosion around the E-brake shaft. This is pretty irritating considering the caliper was not that old and was an ACDelco remanufactured replacement. Not to mention, the caliper on the other side of the car is original with 210K miles on it and has no issues.

I was able to clean away the grime and get it working again. I put a light coating of grease around the area, in hopes of warding off the problem later.


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