How would it have deactivated itself? It's been installed for 80K miles and I'm 110% sure I activated it during installation.

 

I’m not saying it deactivated, it might have a broken internal part!
I myself would simply replace it. Timing chains last 80,000 to 130,000 in general.

 

If you remove it you have to reset it to "from the box", which means you have to activate it again. Or, just put a new one in.

Some people have got away without smacking it, I have not done enough to have experience. The book says to smack it with a rubber ended tool 2mm.

 

Is there any recommendation for replacing the cam/crank sprockets when replacing the chains? I'm of the opinion that if the teeth still look reasonable, the sprockets should be okay.

 

At 180,000 miles now, you should replace the balance shaft chain set also. Yes, if the sprockets look fine, you can reuse them.

 

An update for the SS 2.0 timing chain and balance shaft chain kits


Cloyes 9-4201SX balance shaft chain kit, includes chain guides Amand tensioner only, no sprockets for the balance shafts or crank shaft.

Cloyes 9-4201SX timing chain kit , includes guides oil spigot tensioner and chain, no crankshaft sprocket or VVT phasers

I highly recommend a replacement bolt for that pesky front guide upper bolt.

Melling or Dorman are both good

 

I would almost bet that puny factory guide bolt is broken.

 

It's not. I have the valve cover off and have full visibility of it. The bolt and guide and intact.

 

I found the video, it downloaded into Google photos app, which I rarely use.

Wow that is really loose!

One thing that causes premature chain stretch(not saying you did this) is installing the tensioner in the already released position.

 

That's good information and you are correct, in that I did not do this. At 100K miles I installed the new chain. The tensioner was un-released as I pulled it from the manufacturer's box. After insertion to the engine, I did the required "bump with soft object" to release it, which opened it like it should to tighten the chain. Again, around 150K miles, I had my engine apart for other repairs. At that time, with the proper tools, I reset the tensioner to its un-released position on my workbench. Again, I inserted it to the engine and did the required "bump with soft object" to release it, which opened it like it should to tighten the chain.

UPDATE: Last night, I removed the tensioner from my engine. It was fully released as it should be. I'm ordering a new tensioner to compare the spring tension of the new one versus the old one. I want to see if my old tensioner has lost spring tension. If so, I may just install the new tensioner to buy another 20K miles, which was my original hope. I could be wrong though, and end up replacing the whole set now. *shoulder shrug* I'll see what happens and let you folks know.