Camshaft Position Actuator Solenoid Valve Replacement (w. pics) - P0010/11 P0013/14
I may be the first to have the pleasure of doing this repair for a second time. Yup, 3.5 years after replacing both solenoids I've had the TC light, hard shifting and CEL come back. Code P0011. Actually, the TC and hard shifting happened sporadically a few times over the last several weeks but now it happened several times over the weekend, finally enough times to pop the CEL too. I guess even the new part numbers don't necessarily mean it will last forever LOL. In all honesty though for me 3.5 years is about 90,000 miles so I shouldn't complain. Its a MUCH easier fix than, say, the Impala radiator I did last weekend... That thing took me all day.
Time for a parts order!
Time for a parts order!
Just wanted to update this thread with my repair.
I abandoned this thread since the last time I posted because the check engine light and codes had erased. For the past couple of months the check engine light and codes P0010, P0011 & P0013 (if I remember correctly) would show up on my ScanTools OBD II LX and Torque app. But, they would go away after a couple of days and the codes would erase automatically.
Fast forward to the past couple of weeks. The check engine light came on and all codes were thrown. This time though my HHR would idle horribly. It would buck at stop lights and at partial throttle still buck around. I immediately ordered from rockauto.com. I purchased the Dorman intake and exhaust solenoids for a total of $57.88 shipped. Today I replaced both solenoids using the write up and no more codes and my HHR is idling smoothly! I haven't taken it out for a test drive yet and it was raining while i did the repair. I just couldn't stand the way it was running. Also, the satisfaction of repairing my car for a fraction of what the dealer wanted is awesome! I got an online quote of $301 to replace both solenoids which I think is insane.
Just wanted to share and thank the forums for another job completed.
I abandoned this thread since the last time I posted because the check engine light and codes had erased. For the past couple of months the check engine light and codes P0010, P0011 & P0013 (if I remember correctly) would show up on my ScanTools OBD II LX and Torque app. But, they would go away after a couple of days and the codes would erase automatically.
Fast forward to the past couple of weeks. The check engine light came on and all codes were thrown. This time though my HHR would idle horribly. It would buck at stop lights and at partial throttle still buck around. I immediately ordered from rockauto.com. I purchased the Dorman intake and exhaust solenoids for a total of $57.88 shipped. Today I replaced both solenoids using the write up and no more codes and my HHR is idling smoothly! I haven't taken it out for a test drive yet and it was raining while i did the repair. I just couldn't stand the way it was running. Also, the satisfaction of repairing my car for a fraction of what the dealer wanted is awesome! I got an online quote of $301 to replace both solenoids which I think is insane.
Just wanted to share and thank the forums for another job completed.
Good deal on doing it yourself. Saved some serious $'s for sure.
And yup, the codes will be intermittent typically at first, then get more frequent/permanent, and the drivability will go downhill as it gets worse. Glad to hear you are back on the road.
And yup, the codes will be intermittent typically at first, then get more frequent/permanent, and the drivability will go downhill as it gets worse. Glad to hear you are back on the road.
Just got the P0013 code a couple days ago. Car is running perfectly so far with no reduced power or roughness....
Now to get the parts rounded up.
Update: got the parts from Amazon. Changed both out and new spark plugs today
Now to get the parts rounded up.
Update: got the parts from Amazon. Changed both out and new spark plugs today
Last edited by bobojay; Nov 8, 2015 at 04:26 PM.
solenoid valve electrical connector
started doing to job as told in your post. was wondering if there is something i'm missing on the electrical connector to the solenoid. it won't engage or click on. any help with this is most appreciate.
If the connector was not damaged when it was unplugged it should click back on. Some people have broken the lock on the connector, and usually resolved that by using a zip tie/zap strap. The connectors only fit the specific solenoid I believe, so double check you are connecting to the right one.
Hardest part for me was getting the old ones out. Twisted, pulled, twisted, pulled, pulled and twisted, finally releasing and coming out....
Oh, and used the original bolts to go back in per folks saying the new Chinese bolts were soft and easily break


