I've never figured out why the left and right struts are different prices. In short it's a matter of manufacturing cost accounting.

 

Possibly internal parts are different for the intake than the exhaust.
Or one sells more then the other!

 

Thanks for this post!
Recently bought a HHR LT (2006) with only 53k on the odometer, soon thereafter the DIC/MIL/CEL light came on and she started shifting extremely hard. I read the code and sure enough it was the P0010.
I went online and picked up the GM part # 12655420 as you cited. I wish everything were this easy!
I'm still tracing P0171/P0174 on my Ford explorer months later.
As least the HHR is running fine. 4/2016

 

Cool!!! Glad it is fixed. and yeah, sure is a lot easier than it looks.

 

"I'm still tracing P0171/P0174 on my Ford explorer months later."

Vacuum leak somewhere between the throttle body and the first O2 sensor. Like the purge valve is stuck open.

http://www.autocodes.com/p0171_ford.html

 

I bought my HHR in Sept. of 2013 with 135K and THAT SAME NIGHT I got these codes. Makes me wonder how many people might have traded their HHR in because they thought or were told it was a major issue/repair. Seems to be very common for people to have these codes pop up shortly after purchase. Found it all too coincidental that I would have a T/C light (pending code) within hours of purchase. The car didn't actually throw a CEL at me until months later.

 

Can't find a vacuum leak and almost embarrassed to name everything I've replaced, including the injectors. Are you thinking IAC is clogged (I've replaced the EGR w/the 2 tubes). This is the '98 V6 245 vin X pushrod model with only 150k on her. Love this suv but around 140k this came up & haven't been able to keep it off for long.

 

Have a look at the link. I don't know Fords, but something is letting air into the A/F mix.

This is the wrong thread on the wrong forum for this discussion.

 

I have been reading so much about these codes and what the problem could be. I had my oil changed about 2-3 weeks ago. When I had it changed, it had gone past the 0% oil life on my dash.
I have no symptoms, no chugging, no clicking, nothing, except for the engine light being on.
Could this be as simple as disconnecting the battery to reset the computer?
I'm sure that if P0013/P0014 is the problem, then the engine light would come on again.
I do not want to be taken advantage of by the mechanic just because my engine light is on.
Your comments/suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

 

You didn't explicitly say that you downloaded the codes from the engine check light being on, and the codes were p0013/14. Please clarify - did you get the codes downloaded or, are you guessing/assuming?.

If you came here without knowing what the codes actually were - you cannot assume AT ALL that the engine check light is related to a problem with the solenoids. there are a zillion things that can cause the engine check light to come on.

You don't need a mechanic to determine what the codes are from the ECL - just go to most auto parts stores and they will hook up a code reader and download the codes for you for FREE!!! Do not disconnect the battery in the meantime, as that will erase the codes - it's important to get the codes as it might be a serious problem (and then again it might be something simple).

And make sure you get the actual 5 character code itself, not a description of what the code is, which quite often is inaccurate or misleading.

and shame on you for letting your oil go past 0% - tisk tisk - doing it once or twice probably is not a big deal, but definitely do not let that become a regular thing.