I think you found the bad guy with the breaker get a male spade ter.end and try it in both slots to see if they are tight if they are try a new breaker hope it all good

 

I must be stupid. I have always considered myself to be mechanically and electrically inclined but this is a little more involved than I thought. After pulling the fuse box apart what kind of connector do you use to go in to the block for the male connector to contact with. I do not have any type that I could use. Lights are in and wire is run up to the fuse box. I will wire them some other time. The look of the lights was more important to me than the operation of them. I will need BCM reprogramming anyway. Someday.

 

Do all the 1LT's have the harness in place from the factory?

 

If by saying harness in place from the factory, They have the harness to the fog lamp switch, the relay, fuse. It does not have a harness to the fog lamps. that is the one that you have to install. See the start of this post

 

I used the connector in this photo upper right and removed the insulation from the connector and soldered it to the wire.




I have a box full of connectors so I don't know for sure where I got it. I would check Radio Shack or local hardware store. Worst case you could order them from this site. http://www.installer.com/hardware/

 

I'm going to have to look for those. I tried to modify some yesterday, but nothing seemed to work. I tested the slot and it does have ign on power. Either that or my ground is not good. I grounded both to the radiator upper support. That should be a solid ground I would think.

 

It's about the smallest female type I've seen. They are often used on car speaker terminals.
And I don't think you should be connecting to the terminal that has power at "ignition on". It should be terminal 30 of the relay, which gets power ONLY when the BCM/dash switch signals the relay to close...bringing power to terminal 30 from terminal 87. Look at the diagram on the side of the relay. The terminal you want to wire the fogs to (30) is diagonal from the Hot terminal (87).

 

I'm not doing a factory light install. Mine are aftermarket. But still have to tap the fuse panel.

 

Sorry - the thread title is "factory fog install".

And if that's the case, then skip the panel, and just find a wire that's hot when lights are on and do a T tap into that. Much simpler.

 

Granted, but it still offers information that can be useful for others.

Tap into a ign power on souce and you can run the lights with or without any combination of lights. And not have to worry about leaving them on. Plus using an already available power source in the fuse panel eliminates any possibility of damaging the factory wiring/components.

It's all good.