Remove and replace steering rack
06-01-2017, 05:48 PM
#1
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Join Date: 10-13-2011
Location: Welland,Ont Canada
Posts: 36,514
Remove and replace steering rack
So here goes, first the reason I replaced the rack in my 2007 LS, the input shaft tends to be loose, this negated the simple solution of replacement of the inner an out tierod ends. Actually the right outer one was not to sloppy.
I jacked the HHR up , placed 2 ton jack stands under the frame to support it firmly.
My tool list,
13 mm socket
18 mm socket
18 mm box end wrench
8 mm wrench
To torque the mounting bolts I used a swivel and extensions to reach them from up top.
After removing the mounting bolts, I removed the 13 mm bolt from the intermediate shaft pinch bolt, then gently tapped the yoke up from under the car.
Once that was done, I used an 18 mm wrench for the tie rod nut and the 8 mm wrench to hold the tie rod stud.
Then a pickle fork to pop the tierods out.
Once the bolts are out the tierods are free, I removed the rack from the driversside, carefully turning it to allow the input shaft to clear the swaybar endlink, and the mounting bolt trunnion to clear the transmission rear mount.
Installation was merely a reversal of these steps.
The kicker was finding the torque values, I'm still searching but I torqued the mounting bolts to 81 ft/lbs and the tie rod ends to 35 ft/lbs, the intermediate shaft pinch bolt to 25 ft/lbs also.
The new rack came from GM complete and already set to factory specs, I have to realign my steering wheel , but my front tires are pointing correctly forward with an 1/8 toe in . Just lucky I guess, but I get it aligned just to be sure.
I jacked the HHR up , placed 2 ton jack stands under the frame to support it firmly.
My tool list,
13 mm socket
18 mm socket
18 mm box end wrench
8 mm wrench
To torque the mounting bolts I used a swivel and extensions to reach them from up top.
After removing the mounting bolts, I removed the 13 mm bolt from the intermediate shaft pinch bolt, then gently tapped the yoke up from under the car.
Once that was done, I used an 18 mm wrench for the tie rod nut and the 8 mm wrench to hold the tie rod stud.
Then a pickle fork to pop the tierods out.
Once the bolts are out the tierods are free, I removed the rack from the driversside, carefully turning it to allow the input shaft to clear the swaybar endlink, and the mounting bolt trunnion to clear the transmission rear mount.
Installation was merely a reversal of these steps.
The kicker was finding the torque values, I'm still searching but I torqued the mounting bolts to 81 ft/lbs and the tie rod ends to 35 ft/lbs, the intermediate shaft pinch bolt to 25 ft/lbs also.
The new rack came from GM complete and already set to factory specs, I have to realign my steering wheel , but my front tires are pointing correctly forward with an 1/8 toe in . Just lucky I guess, but I get it aligned just to be sure.
Last edited by Oldblue; 06-01-2017 at 06:21 PM.
06-03-2017, 07:11 PM
#7
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Thread Starter
Join Date: 10-13-2011
Location: Welland,Ont Canada
Posts: 36,514
Had the front end alignment, turns out it's smack dab prefect! My front end guy suggested to simply , disconnect the upper intermediate shaft yolk to the steering column and move the steering wheel two or three splines, three did the trick!
We took a 200 mile drive, awesome, just like new!
Hey this buggy is ten years old has 384,000 klms or 238,606 miles so we're good to roll another ten years!
We took a 200 mile drive, awesome, just like new!
Hey this buggy is ten years old has 384,000 klms or 238,606 miles so we're good to roll another ten years!
06-04-2017, 09:24 AM
#10
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Thread Starter
Join Date: 10-13-2011
Location: Welland,Ont Canada
Posts: 36,514
Up here in CDN $385.00. But it included the inner and outer tie rod ends , it was factory set to assembly line specifications.
It was a little bit of twist and turn and tug to remove the old one, and the reverse to install the new one but well worth the effort and expense.
That amount doesn't even make a months payment on a new car!!
It was a little bit of twist and turn and tug to remove the old one, and the reverse to install the new one but well worth the effort and expense.
That amount doesn't even make a months payment on a new car!!