Can I change from non-synthetic oil to synthetic
02-25-2014, 09:58 AM
#14
Senior Member
Join Date: 04-22-2009
Location: Southern California
Posts: 763
The old school of thought, was never to change to synthetic if the car had many miles on it, and had only been run on dyno oil. That was, as I always understood, because there was a lot more detergent in the synthetics. I don't know how true that still is today, but I still always convert within the first 3000 miles or so.
02-25-2014, 10:28 AM
#15
Technical Moderator
Join Date: 01-23-2009
Location: Fredericksburg, Virginia
Posts: 24,697
Exactly the same argument used for not switching from non-detergent oil to detergent oil. Only the old guys who might recommend against switching to syn would remember "non-detergent" oil.
Parts of old arguments get lost in the retellings over time. Making for wrong generalizations. I.E. Changing from non-detergent to detergent is bad, therefore changing from anything to syn (which has detergent) is bad. I don't remember seeing non-detergent oil for a very long time.
Parts of old arguments get lost in the retellings over time. Making for wrong generalizations. I.E. Changing from non-detergent to detergent is bad, therefore changing from anything to syn (which has detergent) is bad. I don't remember seeing non-detergent oil for a very long time.
02-25-2014, 11:39 AM
#16
Platinum Member
Join Date: 05-09-2006
Location: "Upland" Mesa, Arizona
Posts: 6,804
donbrew .......Sears and a few chain saw shops still sell 30W non detergent. Just bought 4 bottles for my "OLD" gas Sears Power Washer.
Learned this last spring while working as a contractor for a major vehicle manufacturer.....
The tale of a, "lot more detergents" in a synthetic oil is a myth, for the most part. That originated from companies like Amsoil, who add "gobs" of anti-wear product as compared to other competitors. For the most part, that no longer is the case.
The "seal leakage" problem was a result of older/different material used in the seal itself, the molecular structure of the synthetic product and the lack, or insufficient quantity, of a particular additive.
In some instances, and depending on the brand, the additives are exactly the same as a fossil oil. Some synthetics have a different percentage and combination of the same additives as fossil oils. Something to remember.....all the oil additives are supplied to the oil manufacturers by the same companies. They are just created to specification (proportions, additions, etc.) for the oil manufacturers. For example, Most new API approved oils will have a TBN (DZZP) of 9. Most Amsoil has a new oil TBN of 12.
Oh, and as I understand it, the additive manufacturers have found no way to blend the additives without adding a small base/carrier component of fossil oil....which is then blended with the synthetic product. So, the 100% synthetic is kind of not true, if you consider the blending process.
Learned this last spring while working as a contractor for a major vehicle manufacturer.....
The tale of a, "lot more detergents" in a synthetic oil is a myth, for the most part. That originated from companies like Amsoil, who add "gobs" of anti-wear product as compared to other competitors. For the most part, that no longer is the case.
The "seal leakage" problem was a result of older/different material used in the seal itself, the molecular structure of the synthetic product and the lack, or insufficient quantity, of a particular additive.
In some instances, and depending on the brand, the additives are exactly the same as a fossil oil. Some synthetics have a different percentage and combination of the same additives as fossil oils. Something to remember.....all the oil additives are supplied to the oil manufacturers by the same companies. They are just created to specification (proportions, additions, etc.) for the oil manufacturers. For example, Most new API approved oils will have a TBN (DZZP) of 9. Most Amsoil has a new oil TBN of 12.
Oh, and as I understand it, the additive manufacturers have found no way to blend the additives without adding a small base/carrier component of fossil oil....which is then blended with the synthetic product. So, the 100% synthetic is kind of not true, if you consider the blending process.
Last edited by Snoopy; 02-25-2014 at 01:04 PM.
02-28-2014, 02:13 AM
#17
Senior Member
Join Date: 04-22-2009
Location: Southern California
Posts: 763
Exactly the same argument used for not switching from non-detergent oil to detergent oil. Only the old guys who might recommend against switching to syn would remember "non-detergent" oil.
Parts of old arguments get lost in the retellings over time. Making for wrong generalizations. I.E. Changing from non-detergent to detergent is bad, therefore changing from anything to syn (which has detergent) is bad. I don't remember seeing non-detergent oil for a very long time.
Parts of old arguments get lost in the retellings over time. Making for wrong generalizations. I.E. Changing from non-detergent to detergent is bad, therefore changing from anything to syn (which has detergent) is bad. I don't remember seeing non-detergent oil for a very long time.
02-28-2014, 08:28 AM
#18
Banned
Join Date: 01-28-2014
Location: Detroit, MI
Posts: 89
I just put in Mobil1 synthetic when I did my oil change after getting home from the dealership (CPO sold with 12% oil life [insert roll eyes]) and it has been running over 4 thousand miles now all across the north east and even up to northern Minnesota with no problems.
I used to belong to a Chrysler forum that was for 200's, 300's Chargers and Challengers and a lot of guys there were skipping every other change from Dinojuice to Synthetic to save on the cost (7qts a change). I wouldn't recommend that, but pick one and stick with it is my best guess.
Also, Easiest Oil Change Ever!
I used to belong to a Chrysler forum that was for 200's, 300's Chargers and Challengers and a lot of guys there were skipping every other change from Dinojuice to Synthetic to save on the cost (7qts a change). I wouldn't recommend that, but pick one and stick with it is my best guess.
Also, Easiest Oil Change Ever!
02-01-2019, 10:10 PM
#19
Interesting reading. I have another point of view. I have used Mobil 1 full synthetic, in the manufacturer-suggested viscosity for each vehicle, in every vehicle I have owned - bought new or well-used - since 1975. Never, not once, have I experienced an oil related problem. Had a 1980 VW Golf that did not need a valve adjustment in the entire 89k that I owned it. Dropped the pan in a 1999 Turbo Passat because I was told that the 1.8 engines were having oil sludge problems; the pan was totally free of sludge. Having said all that, my favorite Mobil 1 story is of the time that I had to jump-start 15 other cars with my Volvo because it was the only car in the parking lot that would turn over after five hours at -15F.
Am I sold? Yes.
Am I sold? Yes.
02-02-2019, 02:30 PM
#20
Senior Member
Join Date: 08-03-2010
Location: Lake Ronkonkoma, N.Y.
Posts: 3,564
When I had my gas station in '77 I had a guy come in wanting a valve adjustment on his small block chevy (305). Went to adjust them and couldn't, it was like the engine had solid lifters. Back them off a little so it could run. Told the customer what I found and he happened to tell me that he had to add a quart of oil. Moble1 was just out and there was a lot of advertising for it. That's what he put in. Back then Moble1 was not made to be mixed with conventional oil. You had to flush the engine before you installed it. The Moble1 congealed and made a hydraulic lifter basically into a solid one.