Clay Bar Your HHR
Member
Joined: 11-09-2009
Posts: 38
From: Huntington Beach CA
Clay bar - wow
Hi -
I have a Black 09 HHR. The black color put me on a quest as to how to care for it. It shows the dirt easy, but when it is clean it looks good.
Recently at a local car show I asked a guy with a Gorgeous Black 50's 'Ford pickup what he used to maintain the finish on his truck. He said, "Adam's". I thought, "adams what". (I had been trying Meguiers Detail Spray out at that point) I never heard of this brand (like I am some expert? duh). Up to this point in life, car exterior care was wash, dry, wax once in a while.
I located and went to the Adam's web site www.adamspolishes.com,and discovered streaming technique videos online... watched all the videos. Very interesting information there.
Got some detail spray and buttery wax from them for Christmas, just to check it out. Started by trying the detail spray after washing the HHR - I think it works better than the Meguiers. After this first success, was going to go next and buy and try clay bar on a small test area to see how it worked, and then hopefully after a claybar success, their buttery wax. And then, a small happy surprise..
I discovered online last Thursday that last Saturday (Jan 16th) Adam's had a seminar on detailing, being held at Stillen in Costa Mesa, CA (which I attended), and got to see the use of their products, and techniques, up close and personal. Dylan from Adam's was detailing a gorgeous black Vette, (including clay barring). The Vette had been driven in to Stillen through a little bit of rain, as I found out by chatting with the owner. I watched Dylan clay, and polish, right there before my eyes. The results were amazing. There were a number of questions about clay barring from the crowd that were answered there too. So, I bought the Adam's claybar, and went home, gulped, and tried it.
I did a small test claying on a rough area on my Black HHR ( the flat side of the L. front fender) which apparently had missed the detailer, as it was a used vehicle. That flat was noticeably rougher to the hand. I used the Adam's claybar with their detail spray as a lubricant, and very gently wiped the flattened clay bar back and forth, back and forth, over the rough flat of the fender (always keeping it wet with detail spray as I worked), then washed it all off after my gentle wiping with the claybar. (not rubbing, just wiping) It came out amazingly smooth and I had not even applied any wax yet.
As the rain was coming (literally in minutes) I threw a quick coat of buttery wax on it to cover it up, as the light was fading as the rain came on. I haven't even really carried through with any polishing of the smoothed surface yet, and it is still amazing to see.
If I carried on through, I can only imagine how much it will be yet improved over what I see now. Try out their stuff and see for yourself. I was really leery, but found that their products and technique work as advertised. They also show a better way to check the surface before and after than just using your bare hand, and it works.
I am a total newbie to this kind of finish maintenance, but purchasing a black HHR has made me become more interested in getting it swirl free and shiny. I am of the opinion (even after seeing the so-so detailing from the dealer) that if it is really detailed properly and well waxed, the ongoing maintenance is easier, and I am all for that.
When I finally get it finished detailing I will try and get a couple pictures posted here. (The HHR lives outside, and we are having rain all this week, so it may be a couple of weeks until I can get it finished).
I have a Black 09 HHR. The black color put me on a quest as to how to care for it. It shows the dirt easy, but when it is clean it looks good.
Recently at a local car show I asked a guy with a Gorgeous Black 50's 'Ford pickup what he used to maintain the finish on his truck. He said, "Adam's". I thought, "adams what". (I had been trying Meguiers Detail Spray out at that point) I never heard of this brand (like I am some expert? duh). Up to this point in life, car exterior care was wash, dry, wax once in a while.
I located and went to the Adam's web site www.adamspolishes.com,and discovered streaming technique videos online... watched all the videos. Very interesting information there.
Got some detail spray and buttery wax from them for Christmas, just to check it out. Started by trying the detail spray after washing the HHR - I think it works better than the Meguiers. After this first success, was going to go next and buy and try clay bar on a small test area to see how it worked, and then hopefully after a claybar success, their buttery wax. And then, a small happy surprise..
I discovered online last Thursday that last Saturday (Jan 16th) Adam's had a seminar on detailing, being held at Stillen in Costa Mesa, CA (which I attended), and got to see the use of their products, and techniques, up close and personal. Dylan from Adam's was detailing a gorgeous black Vette, (including clay barring). The Vette had been driven in to Stillen through a little bit of rain, as I found out by chatting with the owner. I watched Dylan clay, and polish, right there before my eyes. The results were amazing. There were a number of questions about clay barring from the crowd that were answered there too. So, I bought the Adam's claybar, and went home, gulped, and tried it.
I did a small test claying on a rough area on my Black HHR ( the flat side of the L. front fender) which apparently had missed the detailer, as it was a used vehicle. That flat was noticeably rougher to the hand. I used the Adam's claybar with their detail spray as a lubricant, and very gently wiped the flattened clay bar back and forth, back and forth, over the rough flat of the fender (always keeping it wet with detail spray as I worked), then washed it all off after my gentle wiping with the claybar. (not rubbing, just wiping) It came out amazingly smooth and I had not even applied any wax yet.
As the rain was coming (literally in minutes) I threw a quick coat of buttery wax on it to cover it up, as the light was fading as the rain came on. I haven't even really carried through with any polishing of the smoothed surface yet, and it is still amazing to see.
If I carried on through, I can only imagine how much it will be yet improved over what I see now. Try out their stuff and see for yourself. I was really leery, but found that their products and technique work as advertised. They also show a better way to check the surface before and after than just using your bare hand, and it works. I am a total newbie to this kind of finish maintenance, but purchasing a black HHR has made me become more interested in getting it swirl free and shiny. I am of the opinion (even after seeing the so-so detailing from the dealer) that if it is really detailed properly and well waxed, the ongoing maintenance is easier, and I am all for that.
When I finally get it finished detailing I will try and get a couple pictures posted here. (The HHR lives outside, and we are having rain all this week, so it may be a couple of weeks until I can get it finished).
New Member
Joined: 02-25-2010
Posts: 27
From: Queens, NY
I use the clay bar.
The clay bar works great! It's easier than a clean polish, especially if you keep your car clean.
I use it on my "98 BMW for about 5 years now & no ill effects. You must wax after clay bar cleaning. I found Zymol paste (2 kinds; 1 with carbon for dark colors & 1 without) to last very well as I live close to Kennedy airport in NY & engine dust fallout dirties the cars quickly! My new Dark Grey Metallic Hollywood Hot Rod will get the same treatment. Auto Anything has Groit's brand clay bar & spray lub and both versions of Zymol wax on their web site. Mother's has a clay & spray lub and 1 time bottle of wax box set in stores like AutoZone, in the wax isle.
Try it, You'll like.
I use it on my "98 BMW for about 5 years now & no ill effects. You must wax after clay bar cleaning. I found Zymol paste (2 kinds; 1 with carbon for dark colors & 1 without) to last very well as I live close to Kennedy airport in NY & engine dust fallout dirties the cars quickly! My new Dark Grey Metallic Hollywood Hot Rod will get the same treatment. Auto Anything has Groit's brand clay bar & spray lub and both versions of Zymol wax on their web site. Mother's has a clay & spray lub and 1 time bottle of wax box set in stores like AutoZone, in the wax isle.Try it, You'll like.
Senior Member
Joined: 08-29-2009
Posts: 1,813
From: Long Island, NY
I use zymol also. I bought some years ago when it was cheap and only used it on dark cars. It's the zymol natural creme. Works great, and smells like a beach babe would if she was covered in sun tan lotion...
Here's the ingredience: Contains #1 Yellow Carnauba 12%, Bees Wax 3%, Kaolin Clay, Almond Meal, Chalcedony Crystals, Shea Nut Butter, Coconut Oil, Cetyl Esters, Cetyl Cocoamide (derived from coconut oil), Propolis (derived from Bees) and Glycerl Stearate and FDC Blue #1.
After the Zymol I use Mothers California Gold hard yellow paste wax-which is just straight carnauba wax-no chemicals-straight crushed beans. Too bad with all the rain/snow/salt my car mostly looks like a powder'd donut.
Here's the ingredience: Contains #1 Yellow Carnauba 12%, Bees Wax 3%, Kaolin Clay, Almond Meal, Chalcedony Crystals, Shea Nut Butter, Coconut Oil, Cetyl Esters, Cetyl Cocoamide (derived from coconut oil), Propolis (derived from Bees) and Glycerl Stearate and FDC Blue #1.
After the Zymol I use Mothers California Gold hard yellow paste wax-which is just straight carnauba wax-no chemicals-straight crushed beans. Too bad with all the rain/snow/salt my car mostly looks like a powder'd donut.
Member
Joined: 11-09-2009
Posts: 38
From: Huntington Beach CA
If you really want to check your finish to see if you need to clay, after washing the car nice and clean(and drying it), do the following test:
Get a new clean ziplock or other small plastic baggie, put it over your hand, and ~very gently and slowly!~ lightly run your finger tips (in the baggie) over your finish. If you feel bumps, you need to clay the finish. And use the same baggie test after you've clayed a section (wipe the section dry and wipe the baggie before touching the finish) and then check to see if you got all the bumps. I suggest wiping it dry of the lube as sometimes you will have loose little bits of contaminents on the finish, and you will feel them with the baggie. Watch the surface of your clay, and if it gets a bit discolored, fold the clay on it self on the discolored part, knead the clay, and form it into a small patty again and continue claying. (you can spritz the glass with lube and flatten the clay on the glass for a nice smooth clay surface).
This works well, and will really help you to get all the surface contaminents (rail dust, daily brake dust, pollutants, tree gunk) and prepare that surface for a nice polishing and sealant/wax.
Also, please note that the clay bar Does Not remove swirl marks, just the little micro bits of stuff in your clearcoat. It will remove the wax etc along the way a bit as well, so always rewax (minimum) after claying to protect your new smooth finish.
And BTW, you can clay your glass, too, just like you do your finish. Same rules apply. It will be amazingly smooth afterward.
Get a new clean ziplock or other small plastic baggie, put it over your hand, and ~very gently and slowly!~ lightly run your finger tips (in the baggie) over your finish. If you feel bumps, you need to clay the finish. And use the same baggie test after you've clayed a section (wipe the section dry and wipe the baggie before touching the finish) and then check to see if you got all the bumps. I suggest wiping it dry of the lube as sometimes you will have loose little bits of contaminents on the finish, and you will feel them with the baggie. Watch the surface of your clay, and if it gets a bit discolored, fold the clay on it self on the discolored part, knead the clay, and form it into a small patty again and continue claying. (you can spritz the glass with lube and flatten the clay on the glass for a nice smooth clay surface).
This works well, and will really help you to get all the surface contaminents (rail dust, daily brake dust, pollutants, tree gunk) and prepare that surface for a nice polishing and sealant/wax.
Also, please note that the clay bar Does Not remove swirl marks, just the little micro bits of stuff in your clearcoat. It will remove the wax etc along the way a bit as well, so always rewax (minimum) after claying to protect your new smooth finish.
And BTW, you can clay your glass, too, just like you do your finish. Same rules apply. It will be amazingly smooth afterward.
