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CV Axle - How do you know its bad?

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Old 04-04-2014 | 01:57 PM
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06burntorange's Avatar
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CV Axle - How do you know its bad?

The car is 06 HHR with 120k.
I have replaced the sway bar links, and put on new discs and pads from Powerstop that I ordered from Amazon.

The symptoms that caused me to look:
When going over a speed bump, which involved slowing, ie using the brakes, there is a moaning or creaking sound while going over bump.
I suspect the strut since it is original (afaik).

So I took the front wheel off, and inspected. I noticed the disc rotor was really loose, it can wobbles while on the lug bolts. This may be a quality issue with the hole pattern from the product so I ordered a replacement, to arrive this weekend.

While down there, I looked at the CV axle.
I tried to wiggle at the wheel and it feels solid, then I noticed movement near the transmission. I tried wiggle close to transmission and it has lots of movement.

Is there an allowable amount of movement?
Or do I have a bad CV axle?

Are these difficult or expensive to replace?

Most posts I have read so far talk about noises when identifying a bad CV or wheel bearing. I cant find one about movement or diagnosing if the CV axle is bad.


Other suggestions?

Thanks
Old 04-04-2014 | 02:41 PM
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The moaning/creaking sound when going over bumps are likely the struts. You might also want to check the sway bar mount bushings, but they typically make a thunking sound.

Re: rotors wobbling............ yeah, they can move around a little bit while on the studs with the wheel off. Putting the wheel back on and tightening up the lug nuts is what holds the rotors secure and tight.

No idea without a better description on the CV axle - where are you wiggling it - how much movement is there? Is there fluid leaking from the trans? Is the boot torn that covers the cv joint itself?
Old 04-04-2014 | 02:45 PM
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I just serviced my 2007 LT1 automatic, the cv joints at the trans end of the drive axle where firm but no real movement but the axle did slide in an out of the trans a bit like they always have
Old 04-04-2014 | 03:19 PM
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There is about 3 inches of endplay allowable on the inner end of the axle (it's a slip-joint). The rotors are held in place by the lug nuts.

Don't worry about CVs until they either "click" while turning or the rubber cracks.

If your struts have more than 75,000 miles on them, they are worn out. Get complete struts, it's cheaper and DIY.
Old 04-05-2014 | 08:04 AM
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Originally Posted by whopper
The moaning/creaking sound when going over bumps are likely the struts. You might also want to check the sway bar mount bushings, but they typically make a thunking sound.

Re: rotors wobbling............ yeah, they can move around a little bit while on the studs with the wheel off. Putting the wheel back on and tightening up the lug nuts is what holds the rotors secure and tight.

No idea without a better description on the CV axle - where are you wiggling it - how much movement is there? Is there fluid leaking from the trans? Is the boot torn that covers the cv joint itself?
Struts can moan and creek like he stated, but so can the original GM bushings. They were non-grease type and after time and sitting a while the rubber could bind a bit and give the sway bar a Charlie horse.

Play in the rotor... well like said above they are loose with no wheel and lugs to hold them down. To test this put the lugs on without the wheel and then test. If there is still wobble then I would look at your Wheel hub or your ball joint/tie rod end for play. No wobble but a rhythmic rubbing sound is going to be a warped rotor hitting the brake pads... you will actually see the caliper housing move back and forth with the warping too.

I have never had to change a CV joint or axle in any car, been lucky there. But I agree with others that if the boot is good, there is no click or grind and you can't see fluid leaking around the shaft then leave it alone.
Old 04-05-2014 | 09:27 AM
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Re: testing rotor with lug nuts and no wheel - maybe 20 years ago that might have worked, but the vast majority of lug nuts will not screw down far enough to contact the rotor as the hole does not go all the way through the nut itself.
Old 04-05-2014 | 10:14 AM
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Originally Posted by whopper
Re: testing rotor with lug nuts and no wheel - maybe 20 years ago that might have worked, but the vast majority of lug nuts will not screw down far enough to contact the rotor as the hole does not go all the way through the nut itself.
Have you ever looked at our wheel hubs... I get the feeling you haven't

Just in case you feel like arguing, here is a picture to make it easier: http://howtune.com/articles/88-chang...rotor-lug-nuts
Old 04-05-2014 | 12:31 PM
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Originally Posted by King Aires
Have you ever looked at our wheel hubs... I get the feeling you haven't

Just in case you feel like arguing, here is a picture to make it easier: http://howtune.com/articles/88-chang...rotor-lug-nuts
Yes I have, and in case you haven't looked at your lug nuts, they are capped/closed at the top (outside) and will not screw down the lug nuts far enough to contact and hold the rotor in place.

No, I don't argue - I think we have had enough of you and your jabs for a while.
Old 04-05-2014 | 10:40 PM
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Lugs for the LT alloy wheels are closed end acorn nuts, lugs for the LS steel wheels are open end, so you're both right.
Old 04-06-2014 | 10:16 AM
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Well as for the rotors...
I was able to get a replacement, and the new ones will be here Thursday.
Just for clarification, what I mean by wobble on the rotors is: I expect movement in and out with the wheel off. But the holes that go on the lugs seem too large and the rotor can actually rotate about 1/8 to 1/4 inch because the lugs are NOT snug in the holes. I believe that this much play would allow you to mount the rotors in an off balance position.
The new ones should tell me for sure.

The sway bar bushings have been replaced along with the links and those I double checked for grease and appear to be all good.

I agree that I think the moaning is from the struts...120k on them, probably a little over do.

But as for the CV's ...
I do not hear any clicking or clunking.
There is two ends of the axle right? One towards the wheel and one near the engine. The end towards the wheel feels solid. I am referring to the end near the engine.
The motion or wiggle is not in the the sliding direction, or in and out. The wiggle is up and down.
I did see some slight leakage that could be coming from the seal, or it could be coming from above I will need to look closer.
As for the wiggle, I would not think it is supposed to move up and down, but the sliding in and out is expected for normal movement.


Is it supposed to have any movement up and down? (near the engine side of the axle)


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