Maintenance and Upkeep Discussion HHR maintenance tips ranging from oil change intervals to brake pads and everything in between.

Diagnose help

Old Mar 18, 2020 | 10:18 AM
  #21  
Geremy Smith's Avatar
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Lol I feel you! Although I will tell you I am feeling more AC/DC with everything going on in the world. I told everyone I would drive her into the dirt, honestly, I am thinking I'll just drive it into the eternal flames. lol

Thank you for all the help and I will be posting everything and hopefully making a YouTube channel explaining all the work I have done. There are not a lot of 2010 HHR/LT on there

Edit: Also, that's the same stereo I have. Exact Same. I just wish it had Blue tooth, Eh, whatever, I'll just buy the Blue Tooth adapter.
Old Mar 18, 2020 | 11:03 AM
  #22  
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The Bluetooth is in the OnStar not the radio.
Old Mar 18, 2020 | 02:14 PM
  #23  
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So I went ahead and plug the stereo back in... Uh oh

So I went ahead and plug the stereo back in... Uh oh
None of the cord seemed damaged, they were just wrapped in electrical tape to keep them together. So I went ahead and plugged it in. At first for the first three times I turned it on and off she was totally fine. But as I was going home, right as I was about ready to take a turn with the air conditioning on, the ESC light, traction light, and ABS light came on. And when I went to go shut it off it, wouldn't turn over,. Making noises that indicated it might be the starter alternator or battery.


The batter and starter have been replaced and nothing like this gave me trouble before. Ever .Have had it for well over 20,000 miles. Help






Old Mar 18, 2020 | 02:49 PM
  #24  
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Found an unplugged female


Old Mar 18, 2020 | 04:26 PM
  #25  
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I have no idea what the plug belongs to. Hopefully someone can pipe up with some info on that.

If you are not familiar with troubleshooting the electrical system you really need to take it to a professional that can track down the problem.

BUT if you have a multimeter and know how to use it, and are feeling adventurous, you can probably do some simple tests like:
1) leave the radio disconnected
2) check the voltage on the battery with the engine off - if it isn't 12.7v, it needs recharging
3) measure the current draw at the battery with the engine off - no lights on at all etc. - it will have an initial draw that is a bit high, but should settle down to about 30-70ma.
- if it is higher, then that indicates a parasitic draw and you likely need a pro to trouble shoot it, but you can at least try the next 2 steps
4) if it is a lot greater, like 1 amp or more - keep measuring the current draw, and start pulling fuses to see if you can find a circuit that is causing the problem.
5) plug the radio back in, and do step 3 over - check to see if it is the radio that is drawing it down - if it is pull the fuse for the radio and replace the radio
6) start the vehicle and measure the voltage at the battery - it should be 14+ volts to indicate that the alternator is working (don't try measuring the amperage unless you want to blow up your multimeter)

and ps: tidy up the passengers footwell - that will scare the electrons into not behaving.





Old Mar 18, 2020 | 05:23 PM
  #26  
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If it has anything to do with the radio I suspect the harness is compromised somewhere rather than in the radio. \
Did the radio function?

Extra unplugged bits should mean something is not working. Was the grey part plugged into it? Are the pins on the back of it connected to each other?

I defend the footwell, I was a courier. That looks like just a weeks worth. I have had it crawling up onto the seat.
Old Mar 18, 2020 | 06:03 PM
  #27  
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I haven’t seen that grey piece that plugs into that harness connector, not sure if is something broken off or maybe the heated seats connector or what?
perhaps but most likely not
Old May 4, 2020 | 08:12 AM
  #28  
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Wink Engine code corrected

I scrolled through this thread and did not find a response to the 2.2 vs.2.4 question. I bought a 2011 and had the same issue. I found that a W in the 8th position of the VIN indicates 2.2 while a P is for the 2.4. I suspect this applies to all model years.

THANKS donbrew for the correction and making the owners manual available. I was depending on internet research for my original answer. From the manual, for 2011, W is the 2.2 and U is the 2.4. My 2011 is still a 2.2.

Last edited by Bill VonSteuben; May 5, 2020 at 09:29 AM. Reason: Correction
Old May 5, 2020 | 07:34 AM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by Bill VonSteuben
I scrolled through this thread and did not find a response to the 2.2 vs.2.4 question. I bought a 2011 and had the same issue. I found that a W in the 8th position of the VIN indicates 2.2 while a P is for the 2.4. I suspect this applies to all model years.
Just read your Owners Manual. That info is in there. Pretty sure there are different code letters depending on year model.
From the 2010 Manual:
Engine Specifications Engine VIN Code
2.0L L4 Engine M
2.2L L4 Engine B
2.4L L4 Engine V

Old May 5, 2020 | 08:41 AM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by Geremy Smith
Could I do all that on my own? Would I need any special tools? I am a beginner but I am pretty Mechanically inclined. Everything I have done so far, I have had no experience and done really well.

How long would it take? Any suggestions on what I should look for if there is a short?

Also, do you have any suggestions on fixing the hazards? I literally poked it too hard one day and it fell back into the dash. By poking it when I was delivering pizza. Need them desperately, but it's funny.
Originally Posted by donbrew
If it has anything to do with the radio I suspect the harness is compromised somewhere rather than in the radio. \
Did the radio function?

Extra unplugged bits should mean something is not working. Was the grey part plugged into it? Are the pins on the back of it connected to each other?

I defend the footwell, I was a courier. That looks like just a weeks worth. I have had it crawling up onto the seat.

some stray plugs are diagnostic plugs from the factory, they can be everywhere.. under hood, dash...etc.

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