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I have a very similar one, but from an ebay seller. The problem is, even with Teflon tape, it still leaks. So you tighten it more. Then the cap won't go on because the nipple is threaded in so far. The nipple does have tapered threads, so that's good. I filed off a bit of the threaded part of the nipple, to allow the cap to be installed.
It seems better, but I'm going to have to keep checking the coolant level under the pressure cap periodically. I may need to file some more material off to be able to tighten the nipple more.
I agree that the 90 degree option would probably be better. The one that points straight, aligned with the big hose, the "ear" of the cap ends up right over the clamp for the small hose. This could cause an injury. Even the one with the slight offset would be better.
So is yours holding enough vacuum to suck the coolant back into the engine when it cools?
My thought would be to cut the end of the threaded part off flush then seal around it with your choice of epoxy or other high temp sealant (after roughing the SS up).. Maybe try silver solder or brazing. Maybe use some liquid sealant on the threads.
The problem seems to be the SS is not thick enough to let enough threads do the sealing. I bet the ones that don't leak us a finer thread.
maybe try a pipe nipple to extend the hose out an inch or so.
I wish it was SS, would be a lot easier to weld.
Originally Posted by donbrew
My thought would be to cut the end of the threaded part off flush then seal around it with your choice of epoxy or other high temp sealant (after roughing the SS up).. Maybe try silver solder or brazing. Maybe use some liquid sealant on the threads.
The problem seems to be the SS is not thick enough to let enough threads do the sealing. I bet the ones that don't leak us a finer thread.
Now that gave me an idea, salvage some old radiator parts and make one out of brass. Easy to silver solder it all together and have it leak free and foolproof.
Realistically, would probably never get around to it.
Just finished with the Dorman part and some Dayco upper hose. Before I received anything I spent too much time learning that anyone passing off a replacement for the short hose between filler neck and the head were treating it like gold.
Looked & looked, and never found any store ( or hose manufacturer) willing to sell that three inch piece of 1-1/4" hose as less than a foot long piece, for $15. And that worked out to basically twice what I was paying for the molded hose on the other side of the filler neck, connected to the radiator.
I was fitting/assembling that coolant path, and found that the Dayco molded hose needed to be shortened to match the original, and what do you know?
The piece I had to cut off was just what was needed to replace that short (3")three inch hose.
After 140,000 miles, the hoses were due (especially that short piece) to be replaced. I am going to be getting the long lower hose, and the heater core hose (that I didn't -steal- at clearance with my R.A. order !) to install along with a fresh coolant temperature sensor once the Summit stuff arrives.
Fixing that undetected leak at the filler neck dropped my ultimate coolant temperature indicated by the DIC by more than 20 degrees (so far).
The constant tension clamps used OE GM/Chevy were a bear to deal with, even with the proper clamp tool pliers.
Coolant under fill cap, and recovery tank level spot-on now after bringing it to temperature & cool down.
Just finished with the Dorman part and some Dayco upper hose.....
Glad it worked out for you.
I had success with renewing the Teflon tape on the pipe threads. Now it sucks back the coolant only.
In fact it now completely fills the tube whereas with the OEM, it only filled it half way.
Another interesting item, with the original tstat, the car ran religiously at 180°, whereas with the new one it now runs at 190°
Anyone know what production car this radiator cap fits?
