I do have to re-paint those steelies!

 

JPerry, can i ask something about the compound curves on the HHR while using the DA Polisher?
Do you have a tip on getting complete coverage on the HHR's rounded body?

Thanks

 

Where are you at?

 

Typically orbital buffers are something like this...
http://www.google.com/products/catal...d=0CF8Q8wIwAA#

These type of machine just don't have a lot of power and are not good for paint correction.

A Dual Action polisher is more something like this
http://www.amazon.com/Porter-Cable-7.../dp/B002654I46

It has various speeds and a lot more power than your standard "orbital" buffer. Yet it's still very safe for a novice. As if too much pressure is put on it the head will stop spinning.

 

I'm not positive if I completely understand your question...

I get the rounded curves on the HHR, but are you asking if you can polish on those or just looking for some tips?

You can polish right on the curves using a dual action polisher. The big wide open areas on the HHR actually make polishing it not too back. Big panels are much easier to work with than smaller panels. IMO.

Also, work in 2ftx2ft sections.

 

Thanks for the input JP, I hope you don't mind the interrogation.
I was looking for as many tips as I can get, since this weekend will be my first try with the DA. I plan on doing a cut, polish and wax with the tool, and I think I have everything ready. So if you don't mind;

• Do you clean the pad after every 2" X 2" section?
• How many pads would you typically use to apply each product (example: Cut +2 -Polish =3-Wax =1)?
• Do you use the DA to apply only? And remove with a microfiber towel?

Thanks
K

 

The recomendation of a Porter Cable duel polisher is the best thing you can get.

This polisher does a great job and is for the most part safe for even a novice to use.

The other good info is to real and learn as much as you can on the proper steps of detailing. Doing it right is not only going to give you a good finish but it will also save you work fixing things you may mess up.

As for products there is a lot of good polishes out there. You need to learn the levels of the product and match them to the needs of the finish. I use a lot of the Meguires Professional polish line and pass on the consumer stuff. I also use a 3M Finess for dark paint since I have two vehicles.

The key to all of this is this is not just all about what wax you use. It is the levels of cleaning and polish you do before you seal it with wax. I wish I had a dollar for every guy that ask what wax I use thinking that is all I did.

Note to learn your polish pads and what works best for your needs. Even the foam pads have levels of abrasiveness and it effects the level of how much or little they polish the paint.

Detailing is not a hard thing to do like anything else. You just need to know what you are doing and practice it. If not you will never get the results you want and at time you can damage the paint.

One other thing I use is a Airforce Blaster blow dryer. This is great as it will blow of the water and dry the surface with a blast of warm air. This is not a leaf blower deal as they do not really work well. This protects my black paint as I dry the car and also takes care of the weepers the HHR is known for. The results are stunning. I have the 8 HP blower the 4 works ok but the 8 is better suited for the car.

Even micro fiber can create issues drying a car. Dust has its way of getting into everything. Please try to keep your work space enviroment clean.

When I am done I always use a detailer with a new or almost new microfiber towel. As of now I use Adams detailer as it works great with any Carnuba wax and will even work in harsh conditions like sun at car shows with no streaks. It smells like a French Whore House but it really works great. It even works welll on windows as a cleaner.

There is a lot of thing that are hard to cover just on the web. I would recomend visiting some of the web sites like Adams and Meguires and join their forums. There is a lot of experience there and tricks you can learn.

 

What he said was 2 foot x 2 foot. This is the accepted area by most polish companies to do a good job of getting the surface polished and removing the product before it becomes too difficult to remove. It is like if you do a hood in 4 sections vs the whole thing at once it is easier to remove the product and get a better result.

As for pads he can answer how he does it but I use several pads based on the number of Polish I use and I use a less abasive foam pad at the end to with the glaze to get the best finish. This is just how I do it and other have their own tricks that work well too. I just try to match the pad to the material and not mix them.

I only use the poilisher for the use of Polish. I still apply my wax by hand and remove it by hand. I feel I can do a better finish this way. I also am doing my own cars and have no time factor like a pro. The machines can do a good job too but I just have my own way of removing and time is not money in my case.

Once I finish I use a new several new or near new Micro towels and use Adama detailer to even out the wax finish. I have even used a spray bottle with cold water with good results too.

 

Hi everyone newbie here ! But I been waxing my own cars 40+ yrs always use a wheel hand waxing don't IMHO come close IF you know what your doing but a big if with some folks ! I just bought a HHR a couple months ago and been lurking here since Great car wagon suv bus etc .... The person that swirled the OP car was a hack no good reason to swirl one up for any reason less you don't know what your doing or drunk :O)

Howdy all back to lurking

NOT to hijack the thread but the one BIG funny I have read here so far was someone giving advice on driving in snow and what tires to buy from TN ROFLMAO :O) that was to much They close the state down for a 1/4 inch Gotta be a ft or more here in Michigan and that a only slow us down 12 Hrs :O) Heck I drove my beater in 7 inches a snow this yr on 2 bald tires Not a proble not smart but it was just fine but then I been driving in snow since I got a drivers license . Wish I was in a nice warm climate thou :O/

I agree with the PC set up great buffer IMHO ...

 

No problem on the interrogation. Take a machine polisher to your beloved ride can be intimidating at first. But you'll soon realize that it just takes some patience and testing out different product/combos.

I don't know what type of pads you have on hand. For GM paint I typically would go with this combo...

Meguiars M105 or Ultimate Compound (UC does not dust as bad as M105) and a Lake County CCS Flat orange or yellow pad (usually have to go with Yellow on the DA).

Then I'd follow that up with Megs M205 on a Lake County CCS Flat white pad.

This normally finishes up really well. If the paint is soft (GM paint is not normally soft) then it may need to be followed up with a finer polish/pad combo. If it leaves any marring, you can try M205 on a green LC CCS pad.

Again I don't know what your working with so I can't really give you too much advice on your combos. Just going with what I use on GM paint.

Just as an FYI - Don't use any pads bigger than 5.5". The PC does work well with bigger pads.

I typically clean my pads after every 2 sections. Depending on how the pad looks. I also keep at least 3-4 pads handy for when I do my cutting step. The pads will heat up and can cause premature failure of the pad. So, usually after a section or two I'll put a new pad on and clean the other pad.

On my 2nd step (polish) I'll usually use 2-3 pads for this ensuring I clean it often.

After I do all my polishing I will wash the car again and inspect it in the sun to ensure I didn't miss any spots.

And then I'll apply my wax by machine. As I stated earlier it really gives you a great uniform and more importantly THIN layer of wax or sealant. 1 pad should be enough to apply the wax.

I always remove my compounds, polishes, and waxes by hand. However, I do know some people that will remove their waxes by machine. Compounds and polishes you need to remove by hand.