HAND Wax or Power tools?
You polish with tools primairly since most people cannot create enough "passion" to cut the surface consistantly. Its ok for small areas but anything bigger then a 4" x 4" section you really should have a buffer (rotary or d/a).
When it comes to waxing I apply by hand and remove by hand. But I will say you could use a good wax spreader like an orbital as it helps spreads the product and then remove by hand.
Meguiar has an excellent link explaining "cut"
http://www.meguiarsonline.com/forums...Total-Cut-quot
When it comes to waxing I apply by hand and remove by hand. But I will say you could use a good wax spreader like an orbital as it helps spreads the product and then remove by hand.
Meguiar has an excellent link explaining "cut"
http://www.meguiarsonline.com/forums...Total-Cut-quot
I have a variable speed machine too. It is good if you really 1 know what you are doing and 2 have a need to do some heavier cutting.
You can do light jobs on these but they can unforgiving for the novice or someone just wanting a light clean up. Either way it is a good tool to learn and master. I needed one to clean up a spare hood I had for my car. My custom hood had a flaw and I had to make the 2 AM change and have it sanded and buffed out before I had to leave for the Pontiac Nationals. I had it done in time and still won my class.
You can do light jobs on these but they can unforgiving for the novice or someone just wanting a light clean up. Either way it is a good tool to learn and master. I needed one to clean up a spare hood I had for my car. My custom hood had a flaw and I had to make the 2 AM change and have it sanded and buffed out before I had to leave for the Pontiac Nationals. I had it done in time and still won my class.
Rotary polishers are a great tool and are a standard in the detailing world. However...there is a huge learning curve when it comes to using a rotary polisher on auto paint. They can be very unforgiving and in a novice hands can cause A LOT of damage to your paint. Such as holograms, burn through, etc.
Depending on the color of your car it may also leave you with a lot of holograms. Even experienced detailers some times have trouble finishing down black paint with a rotary. Not saying it isn't possible, but it can be a real pain to get it right.
For a novice I'd suggest picking up a dual action polisher. Something like the Porter cable 7424 or Flex 3401. These machines are great and are very easy to learn with. Plus you do not have to worry about burn through, holograms, etc with a dual action polisher.
For me I use a combination of both rotary and dual action when I am doing paint corrections. I use my rotary for my initial cutting due to the quickness it can get it done. Then I follow it up with my dual action, which ensure I am ridding the car of any holograms I may have instilled in the cutting stage.
You polish with tools primairly since most people cannot create enough "passion" to cut the surface consistantly. Its ok for small areas but anything bigger then a 4" x 4" section you really should have a buffer (rotary or d/a).
When it comes to waxing I apply by hand and remove by hand. But I will say you could use a good wax spreader like an orbital as it helps spreads the product and then remove by hand.
Meguiar has an excellent link explaining "cut"
http://www.meguiarsonline.com/forums...Total-Cut-quot

When it comes to waxing I apply by hand and remove by hand. But I will say you could use a good wax spreader like an orbital as it helps spreads the product and then remove by hand.
Meguiar has an excellent link explaining "cut"
http://www.meguiarsonline.com/forums...Total-Cut-quot

Just wanted to comment on this being a detailer myself.
Rotary polishers are a great tool and are a standard in the detailing world. However...there is a huge learning curve when it comes to using a rotary polisher on auto paint. They can be very unforgiving and in a novice hands can cause A LOT of damage to your paint. Such as holograms, burn through, etc.
Depending on the color of your car it may also leave you with a lot of holograms. Even experienced detailers some times have trouble finishing down black paint with a rotary. Not saying it isn't possible, but it can be a real pain to get it right.
For a novice I'd suggest picking up a dual action polisher. Something like the Porter cable 7424 or Flex 3401. These machines are great and are very easy to learn with. Plus you do not have to worry about burn through, holograms, etc with a dual action polisher.
For me I use a combination of both rotary and dual action when I am doing paint corrections. I use my rotary for my initial cutting due to the quickness it can get it done. Then I follow it up with my dual action, which ensure I am ridding the car of any holograms I may have instilled in the cutting stage.
Rotary polishers are a great tool and are a standard in the detailing world. However...there is a huge learning curve when it comes to using a rotary polisher on auto paint. They can be very unforgiving and in a novice hands can cause A LOT of damage to your paint. Such as holograms, burn through, etc.
Depending on the color of your car it may also leave you with a lot of holograms. Even experienced detailers some times have trouble finishing down black paint with a rotary. Not saying it isn't possible, but it can be a real pain to get it right.
For a novice I'd suggest picking up a dual action polisher. Something like the Porter cable 7424 or Flex 3401. These machines are great and are very easy to learn with. Plus you do not have to worry about burn through, holograms, etc with a dual action polisher.
For me I use a combination of both rotary and dual action when I am doing paint corrections. I use my rotary for my initial cutting due to the quickness it can get it done. Then I follow it up with my dual action, which ensure I am ridding the car of any holograms I may have instilled in the cutting stage.
A rotary with the right pad / chemical / speed / pressure combo will provide as clean of a finish as a D/A.
Also to MAKE note for some cars that need a "Wet Sand" you need a wool pad on a rotary to get the surface level and then step down to a less cutting pad / chemical to get the desired amound of correction. You will be there FOREVER if you do major correction just on a D/A as evident in the graph.
Also I wold recommend people check out Meguiars, its a good website!
Just wanted to comment on this being a detailer myself.
Rotary polishers are a great tool and are a standard in the detailing world. However...there is a huge learning curve when it comes to using a rotary polisher on auto paint. They can be very unforgiving and in a novice hands can cause A LOT of damage to your paint. Such as holograms, burn through, etc.
Depending on the color of your car it may also leave you with a lot of holograms. Even experienced detailers some times have trouble finishing down black paint with a rotary. Not saying it isn't possible, but it can be a real pain to get it right.
For a novice I'd suggest picking up a dual action polisher. Something like the Porter cable 7424 or Flex 3401. These machines are great and are very easy to learn with. Plus you do not have to worry about burn through, holograms, etc with a dual action polisher.
For me I use a combination of both rotary and dual action when I am doing paint corrections. I use my rotary for my initial cutting due to the quickness it can get it done. Then I follow it up with my dual action, which ensure I am ridding the car of any holograms I may have instilled in the cutting stage.
Rotary polishers are a great tool and are a standard in the detailing world. However...there is a huge learning curve when it comes to using a rotary polisher on auto paint. They can be very unforgiving and in a novice hands can cause A LOT of damage to your paint. Such as holograms, burn through, etc.
Depending on the color of your car it may also leave you with a lot of holograms. Even experienced detailers some times have trouble finishing down black paint with a rotary. Not saying it isn't possible, but it can be a real pain to get it right.
For a novice I'd suggest picking up a dual action polisher. Something like the Porter cable 7424 or Flex 3401. These machines are great and are very easy to learn with. Plus you do not have to worry about burn through, holograms, etc with a dual action polisher.
For me I use a combination of both rotary and dual action when I am doing paint corrections. I use my rotary for my initial cutting due to the quickness it can get it done. Then I follow it up with my dual action, which ensure I am ridding the car of any holograms I may have instilled in the cutting stage.
That is pretty much how I use mine. I use the rotory mostly on a really bad surface or new paint that needs cut and then move to the Duel action to clean it up. Often then I move to the hand polish for the smaller details and to work out the small things on the show car.
It is good if someone can learn to master the rotory as it is a good look when you need it. It is like a sludge hammer great for heavy work but not for trim nails.
Best to learn on a beater car or just get an old hood or fender to work on and practice. It is not something you will learn in one night and no matter what you do at some point you will burn through some paint. Some cars are thin on the edges and you will in time find one. It is a risk that you will never lose.
When you are learning use tape on the edges to keep off of them.
Also learning how and what polish to use. I have 6-8 levels of polish at any given time. I can chose which one to start with and work out the defects. THis too is something you just have to learn.
Polishing is like dent removal a skill that just take a lot of practice. It really is a skill that needs to be learned. Most people can learn it but there are some that just never get it. It takes a good touch and a good eye to work paint.
Purchased a nice kit from Griot's, 6" orbital bag kit, worked on the hood last weekend turned out awsome, start on the passenger side this weekend.
Now let me tell you that before last weekend I'd only used a buffer once years ago and if I remember correctly I burnt the paint, there products rock thats all I can say
Now let me tell you that before last weekend I'd only used a buffer once years ago and if I remember correctly I burnt the paint, there products rock thats all I can say
What he said, Griots Garage just refinished my wheels. Their stuff rocks 
Ha,Ha I might be a little country but I used a varible speed 3/8 drill with a mothers 4" buffing ball. I did use Griots polish, worked well, to clean up the clear coat.
Ha,Ha I might be a little country but I used a varible speed 3/8 drill with a mothers 4" buffing ball. I did use Griots polish, worked well, to clean up the clear coat.
Last edited by SS fan; Oct 29, 2011 at 09:51 AM.
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