I had a butyl patch failure that caused the AC blower to die on it, but before I just replace parts I wanna make sure what got damaged.

When I do an amp test where both leads are plugged into both wires of the blower connector. Put it in Amp mode, and here is a video of my results. Most blower motors I've seen don't go that high... it flashes because it only does up to 10A


Also, I do get 11.xx volts on the Brown wire in the connector.

So, it seems to tell me the resistor is indeed switching, but I can't get a voltage reading on that, just this amp reading.


Is there a way I can just jump power to it manually to verify it blows air? It was quite intermittent, but now it's dead as a door knob.

 

Somebody recently claimed that he just bypassed the resistor pack with a pot. I don't see any reason you couldn't.

The easiest test would be to pull the resistor pack out and test the resistance on each section (3). When the resistor fails, it seems that the fan runs on high only, so I'm guessing the fan is bad. I think you can get your fingers onto the fan blades from the filter area to test the bearing.

 

I bought this from my dad who had the dealership replace the entire blower system. The dealership went nuts with charging him everything and it was about $700. That was 18 months ago, doesn't look like they did anything with the Butyl seal

So it's already got the ring to unbolt the motor. I'm going to try jumping power directly to it and see if it works, and if so I'll take it apart and clean it up a bit.

 

The resistor pack just makes a variable ground for the motor correct? So To test I could throw a pot sensor on to a ground and fiddle with it that way?

 

I "think" that the high setting is "no resistor", which is why most times it fails high only. Water causes corrosion on the resistor wires.

So, a jumper between the 2 contacts would, in theory, run the fan on high. Check the wiring diagrams.

Now I am thinking you should be looking at loose wires. Dealers usually warrant their work and parts. May need to lie about ownership.

 

looking at the diagram I'm thinking that I should Ground the orange wire. I was thinking jumping 12v to both and the body is ground... but I believe that The resistor pack just does variable ground basically doesnt it?

Well I got the blower motor pulled today, it's got some rust on it. Grounding out the orange wire didn't get any life out of it.

 

The resistor pack adds resistance to the 12v circuit. With no resistance added the motor sees full voltage and blows at full speed aka the M4 position. In the M3 posistion the first level of resistance is applied which lowers the voltage a little bit which in turn does not allow the fan to run as fast as it did with full voltage. In the M2 position a larger amount of resistance is applied thus lowering the voltage to the motor a bit more and the fan blows at an even slower speed. M1 follows suit and blows at the lowest speed.

Like Don said this is why when a blower resistor fails it fails on full speed.