Normal operating temp. for 2008 2LT with 2.4L
07-08-2014, 09:26 PM
#11
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Join Date: 05-09-2006
Location: "Upland" Mesa, Arizona
Posts: 6,805
Have had those temperatures since the car was new. Took it on the first trip with about 2300 miles on the dial. Has never changed in 8 years over the same roads. But generally when the weather is "normal".....sub 90's...I run 185-190, city. About the same at "highway" speeds of 75. Might break into a 195.
Oh and I back power wash my radiator EVERY MONTH AT THE "WAND" WASH. And use compressed air on the radiator every oil change. Had one coolant change since new. Same results.
But I have been told that it is normal by a couple of engineers (for what that is worth).
Oh and I back power wash my radiator EVERY MONTH AT THE "WAND" WASH. And use compressed air on the radiator every oil change. Had one coolant change since new. Same results.
But I have been told that it is normal by a couple of engineers (for what that is worth).
07-08-2014, 09:36 PM
#12
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Join Date: 06-12-2013
Location: Tyler, Texas
Posts: 107
I have to admit, and this was before the flush, the only time I ever saw 200+ was in standing traffic on the freeway in Houston on the way to New Orleans with an outside temp of 108. Then, it only got to 207, never higher. As soon as traffic started moving again it went normal
07-09-2014, 12:31 AM
#13
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Join Date: 06-30-2010
Location: Kannapolis NC
Posts: 25,739
Glad to hear that your regularly clean out your rad and condenser Snoopy, you just have a hot blooded HHR I suppose, while Lawagz has one that runs cooler.
It could be due to different radiator suppliers used by GM during the production run, or thermostat variances.
My own pair of '07 models and the '06 are always in lock step. 187-190 on the highway, 192-196 in town. The 2011 is the odd duck, it runs 192-198 on the highway, and 200-205 in town.
It could be due to different radiator suppliers used by GM during the production run, or thermostat variances.
My own pair of '07 models and the '06 are always in lock step. 187-190 on the highway, 192-196 in town. The 2011 is the odd duck, it runs 192-198 on the highway, and 200-205 in town.
07-09-2014, 04:57 PM
#14
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Join Date: 11-05-2010
Location: Detroit, Michigan USA
Posts: 1,492
Thanks Guys, Everything you've said makes sense. I'm just going by what I experienced in the year prior to the flush. Now, since the flush, it's acting differently and that's my concern so the dealer that did the flush is going to check it on Thursday just to be on the safe side.
Amber N. (assisting)
Chevrolet Customer Care
07-10-2014, 09:37 AM
#15
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Join Date: 06-12-2013
Location: Tyler, Texas
Posts: 107
Ok, so I went to the dealer this morning to have the system checked and found out:
#1 that the "coolant kit" I mentioned in post #3 that Donbrew asked about consisted of a cleaner for the radiator and an after-market purge system that is SUPPOSED to make air bubbles non-existent (must have been a cheap system).
and #2. apparently what happened is that the after-market system didn't work as advertised, there had been air in the system and when it eventually settled down, left me with a low coolant situation that was causing the higher temp readings. (Gee, I guess I could have checked the coolant level myself (doh!) but didn't think about that because it had just had the flush).
Tried to get a refund on the "coolant kit" (hey, if you don't ask you don't get!) and that didn't work but, at least, they didn't charge me for the diagnostic!
Thank you everyone for your input, it was VERY helpful, especially in terms of making me realize that my perception was real and NOT caused by hallucinations and flashbacks! lol :)
#1 that the "coolant kit" I mentioned in post #3 that Donbrew asked about consisted of a cleaner for the radiator and an after-market purge system that is SUPPOSED to make air bubbles non-existent (must have been a cheap system).
and #2. apparently what happened is that the after-market system didn't work as advertised, there had been air in the system and when it eventually settled down, left me with a low coolant situation that was causing the higher temp readings. (Gee, I guess I could have checked the coolant level myself (doh!) but didn't think about that because it had just had the flush).
Tried to get a refund on the "coolant kit" (hey, if you don't ask you don't get!) and that didn't work but, at least, they didn't charge me for the diagnostic!
Thank you everyone for your input, it was VERY helpful, especially in terms of making me realize that my perception was real and NOT caused by hallucinations and flashbacks! lol :)
07-10-2014, 09:40 AM
#16
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Thread Starter
Join Date: 06-12-2013
Location: Tyler, Texas
Posts: 107
Oh, and one more thing, the service advisor was trying to tell me that the normal operating temps on the HHR SHOULD be 215-220 (that's what it is on his Silverado, according to him) and I'm just thankful that the technician working on the car knew better!
07-11-2014, 06:21 PM
#17
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Join Date: 01-23-2009
Location: Fredericksburg,VA
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Keep an eye on the under the pressure cap coolant level. I am suspicious about a possible head gasket leak. Easiest way is to look at your upper rad hose before you start up in the AM, if it is collapsed you may have a problem.
07-11-2014, 06:57 PM
#19
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Join Date: 06-12-2013
Location: Tyler, Texas
Posts: 107
"Keep an eye on the under the pressure cap coolant level. I am suspicious about a possible head gasket leak. Easiest way is to look at your upper rad hose before you start up in the AM, if it is collapsed you may have a problem." from Donbrew
__________________
Donbrew, the car had been sitting all day so I just went to check the upper radiator hose and it was fine, no sign of collapse and the temps seem to be back to normal while I was driving yesterday.
__________________
Donbrew, the car had been sitting all day so I just went to check the upper radiator hose and it was fine, no sign of collapse and the temps seem to be back to normal while I was driving yesterday.
07-11-2014, 11:13 PM
#20
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Join Date: 01-09-2007
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Lawagz- Keep an ear open, when you first start driving, if you hear any sloshing sounds by the pass side glove box, you likely still have a bit of air trapped in the heater core.
Once engine is totally COLD, remove the Coolant fill cap & make sure it is full up...
If not grab a jug of DexCool* from auto parts store, & top it off.. After checking this a few times, you should be set.
Even tho you had your Dealer use "the machine"...
I would also suggest testing the freeze point of the antifreeze mix to be sure you got a good 50/50 blend, which will yeild approx -34*
This will ensure the best anti-corrosion protection, & optimal cooling ability..
Once engine is totally COLD, remove the Coolant fill cap & make sure it is full up...
If not grab a jug of DexCool* from auto parts store, & top it off.. After checking this a few times, you should be set.
Even tho you had your Dealer use "the machine"...
I would also suggest testing the freeze point of the antifreeze mix to be sure you got a good 50/50 blend, which will yeild approx -34*
This will ensure the best anti-corrosion protection, & optimal cooling ability..