Parts and Grades: HHR Adventure
Thread Starter
Banned
Joined: 01-28-2014
Posts: 89
From: Detroit, MI
Parts and Grades: HHR Adventure
So in my introduction post I outlined a number of parts I was planning on replacing on my Certified Pre-Owned (hahaha) HHR. I finished all the planned replacements and wanted to discuss the ease of replacement and the initial quality of the parts I used.
First,
Energy Suspension Sway-Bar Grease-able 9.5161R $18
Ease: B (one tough nut because of clearance)
Part Grade: A-
The only problem I have with these parts is the packaging is kinda crappy, there was a hole in the bottom and one of the washers that come with the bracket fell out. Other than that, very nice part, very cheap.
ACdelco Iridium Plugs 41-103 $20 set of 4
Ease: A+ (easiest tune up ever)
Part Grade: A
Pre-gap set, original equipment. Easy to replace, did it in 0 degree weather no problem. @52k miles, the old plugs were fouled pretty bad, I would never have made it 100k on those.
Monroe Sensa-Trac rear Shocks 5779 $23 each
Ease: A- (need two jacks, one to bring wheel back up to match bolt holes)
Part Grade: B+
Not firm, but smooth. My back end is about an inch higher than it was before. No back end noise anymore. Much easier than just about any other cars I have worked on.
FCS Auto Quick-Strut assembly 1332356 $75 each
Ease: A- (easiest strut replacement ever done)
Part Grade: B+
Firmer ride, same height, everything matched up perfectly, smooth and quiet ride. Little louder when hitting Michigan's potholes, but recovery is much faster, none of that "double-bounce" I was getting on the GM ones.
Moog Sway Bar End Links (Problem Solver) K750012 $20 Each
Ease: C (old ones spin, need vice grips to hold. New ones spin worse, need 18mm open-end to hold)
Part Grade: C-
Now I have used Moog before, never had an issue. I consider them like the fast-food of car parts. They get the job done... but don't think it will be pretty. First off I ordered two and got two different kinds of the same part number, one with a removable 90* grease fitting, the other with a soldered in 45*. The 90* fitting did not want to go into the link head at all... I ended up cross threading it and forcing it down, greased up fine.
Next was the installation, I knew the old links would be a pain to remove (I only had to remove the lower link nut because I was tossing the whole strut anyways). The new links from Moog were not easy to get on. The threads has a spur on them, making for easy turn of the nut followed by binding all the way down. The bolt spun and the 18mm holder on the inside of the link head was very thin, the wrench had to push back the boot in order to secure the nut to the to completion. Not impressed.
Anyways, now that this was all done she feels like a new car. Henrietta has 52k miles on her and I am going to need her to make it at least another 100k.
First,
Energy Suspension Sway-Bar Grease-able 9.5161R $18
Ease: B (one tough nut because of clearance)
Part Grade: A-
The only problem I have with these parts is the packaging is kinda crappy, there was a hole in the bottom and one of the washers that come with the bracket fell out. Other than that, very nice part, very cheap.
ACdelco Iridium Plugs 41-103 $20 set of 4
Ease: A+ (easiest tune up ever)
Part Grade: A
Pre-gap set, original equipment. Easy to replace, did it in 0 degree weather no problem. @52k miles, the old plugs were fouled pretty bad, I would never have made it 100k on those.
Monroe Sensa-Trac rear Shocks 5779 $23 each
Ease: A- (need two jacks, one to bring wheel back up to match bolt holes)
Part Grade: B+
Not firm, but smooth. My back end is about an inch higher than it was before. No back end noise anymore. Much easier than just about any other cars I have worked on.
FCS Auto Quick-Strut assembly 1332356 $75 each
Ease: A- (easiest strut replacement ever done)
Part Grade: B+
Firmer ride, same height, everything matched up perfectly, smooth and quiet ride. Little louder when hitting Michigan's potholes, but recovery is much faster, none of that "double-bounce" I was getting on the GM ones.
Moog Sway Bar End Links (Problem Solver) K750012 $20 Each
Ease: C (old ones spin, need vice grips to hold. New ones spin worse, need 18mm open-end to hold)
Part Grade: C-
Now I have used Moog before, never had an issue. I consider them like the fast-food of car parts. They get the job done... but don't think it will be pretty. First off I ordered two and got two different kinds of the same part number, one with a removable 90* grease fitting, the other with a soldered in 45*. The 90* fitting did not want to go into the link head at all... I ended up cross threading it and forcing it down, greased up fine.
Next was the installation, I knew the old links would be a pain to remove (I only had to remove the lower link nut because I was tossing the whole strut anyways). The new links from Moog were not easy to get on. The threads has a spur on them, making for easy turn of the nut followed by binding all the way down. The bolt spun and the 18mm holder on the inside of the link head was very thin, the wrench had to push back the boot in order to secure the nut to the to completion. Not impressed.
Anyways, now that this was all done she feels like a new car. Henrietta has 52k miles on her and I am going to need her to make it at least another 100k.
Platinum Member
Joined: 04-09-2006
Posts: 7,043
From: Vancouver, BC, Canada
That's a great list of the items often needed to maintain the vehicle. You should be good for a few more miles now.
About the only thing not replaced that sometimes causes problems is that rear bushing, in the lower control arm. But I bet you will be keeping an eye on it. :)
Nice job - kinda fun to do it yourself isn't it.
About the only thing not replaced that sometimes causes problems is that rear bushing, in the lower control arm. But I bet you will be keeping an eye on it. :)
Nice job - kinda fun to do it yourself isn't it.
Thread Starter
Banned
Joined: 01-28-2014
Posts: 89
From: Detroit, MI
That's a great list of the items often needed to maintain the vehicle. You should be good for a few more miles now.
About the only thing not replaced that sometimes causes problems is that rear bushing, in the lower control arm. But I bet you will be keeping an eye on it. :)
Nice job - kinda fun to do it yourself isn't it.
About the only thing not replaced that sometimes causes problems is that rear bushing, in the lower control arm. But I bet you will be keeping an eye on it. :)
Nice job - kinda fun to do it yourself isn't it.
Thread Starter
Banned
Joined: 01-28-2014
Posts: 89
From: Detroit, MI
You can't gap iridium's without a wire tool anyways and I don't even own one.
Moderator
Joined: 01-23-2009
Posts: 26,479
From: Fredericksburg,VA
I can attest to that, I tossed a set of new plugs out because I was a smartypants gap tool guy. You are well advised to just not even get finger oil on the tips, don't even cross your eyes at the whisker; it will break, oil will foul it.
Senior Member
Joined: 06-21-2008
Posts: 1,458
From: SE Michigan
Them sway bar links are a pistol, ain't they? Same issue, spinny spinny spinny. Went to Harbor Freight and bought a cheap 18mm wrench (well a set of wrenches) and ground it down to fit.
I need to do the LCA bushing this summer..... not looking forward to that one at all.
I need to do the LCA bushing this summer..... not looking forward to that one at all.
