This is getting very close to the trolling line.

 

That is the phasers. Phaser rattle will also stretch the chain faster than normal. When doing a timing set it's advisable to do the phasers as well.

 

I thought the answer to that was implicit in my reply #12 which suggested a number of better explanations for the change, but to be more explicit, no, even if badly worn, the timing chain/guide/tensioner system won't cause a performance problem until it actually jumps time. The usual warning is excessive noise, especially on startup. (Occasional slight rattle on startup is normal and will typically go away when the tensioner indexes to the next ratchet.)

If you're lucky it will only jump a tooth or two and likely cause throw a code without bending any valves. (But I'm not convinced that with VVT, jumping just one tooth will always immediately throw a code, as the closed loop could sufficienly compensate.)

If you're unlucky, a guide will break, the chain will break, the valves will bend, and the crackcase will be full of shards from the guide.

 

I have a 2.2 with 213k on the odometer. Original timing chain. Is this engine hard on timing chains. A little history here, car was purchased with 155,000 miles on it in 2014. Its a 2011. So 1000 miles a week for the first 3 years of its life. Obviously highway miles. I may just have this done or is it a fairly easy job? I can wrench for sure. I change oil by miles, not by the reminder. 4000 and its new oil time. I've replace the VVT actuators, easy job. thanks

 

Rattling on cold start, codes or, pop the valve cover off and use the MKII organic light sensors on the chain; ANY slack or missing plastic on the top chain guide is bad .
Not a horrible job with patience and time.

 

No rattling at start up. I'll look into it though, thanks

 

Just this much slack caused cold start noise and codes.