Swirls aka Fine Scratches
02-23-2006, 12:13 AM
#1
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: 02-20-2006
Location: San Jose, CA
Posts: 49
Swirls aka Fine Scratches
Many of you have asked about the fine scratches in your paint. They have multiple names, some not printable here 
. Fine scratches, spider webbing, and swirls, are the most common names.
The darker the color the more obvious they are.
Take a look at a Silver car versus a black car, and you will see what I mean.
Look for those fine scratches in Silver or White, they are almost impossible to see, unless you get in just the right light. On a dark colored car they seem to really show up in any bright light.
They are caused by washing/drying and using a detail spray with towels/mitts not really made for auto detailing.
I swear dealers wash their cars with a wisk broom.
Once you have them, and trust me even the best show cars have them, they are difficult to get rid of. I have been amazed at what I see when I go to a show. The local Corvette Club, where I am also a sponsor, has told me they will never let me judge paint finish, I am too picky and can spot swirl marks in a white car from 500 yards
So, the best way to get rid of them is with a very mild abrasive, 3M Swirl mark Remover is one of the better products that is readily available, Meguiar's also makes a very good Swirl Mark remover. Zaino has just come out with a mild Paint Cleaner that I like.
There are polishes/waxes that will fill them in but they are temporary and for many that is fine
Generally you need a good buffer to really do it right. It takes a combination of heat, friction and an abrasive to clean up the clearcoat. It can be done by hand, but be prepared to get physical.
A good abrasive will break down as it is worked and create a final polishing compound, much the same way a jeweler's polish works. Heat and friction really make that happen.
They start out cleaning the surface of any major imperfections, and as the compund is worked, it breaks down into finer particles and begins to polish the surface. As you continue to work it, the compund continues to remove remove the scratches and polish the surface.
Keep in mind, it is the same thing as using an 80 grit sand paper on a piece of wood to remove the major imperfections, then to a 200 grit, to a 600, then to a 1000 grit. Each successive number smooths the surface and removes finer imperfections and makes it smoother than the last.
Now that I have boggled the mind a bit with all the technical jargon, let's make it easy.
Using any major brand Swirl Mark remover will help reduce what you have. Many polish manufacturers have products that will remove and polish/wax at the same time. I prefer a single step Swirl mark Remover with no polish/wax in it, so I know I have actually cleaned up the surface.
A buffer is the best way, but it can be done by hand. Read the product instructions and make sure you are getting a product that will work for you.
Don't buy a product that advises using a buffer, and expect easy/good results by hand. Same goes the other way.
I might add, a good claying of the surface to remove "stuff" that is stuck to your paint, is advisable. I learned that one the hard way. I used 3M Swirl Mark Removed on a washed but somewaht dirty surface(After a wash and dry, run your hand over the hood and feel all the little bumps? That is dirt stuck to the paint that normal washing does not remove) and created a bigger mess than what I had to begin with. Basically the pad picked up the "stuff" stuck to the paint surface, and used it like 80 grit sand paper. I was slightly more than upset with myself when I saw the final result.
Once you have eliminated them, quality car care porducts will help reduce their creation.
Run the CD test on your washing mitts/towels. The CD test consists of rubbing the recorded side of a CD with your mitt/towel in one direction with fairly heavy pressure. If you see fine scratches in the direction you were rubbing, that will happen to your paint.
You have to take some of my fanatical detailing behavior and use it to suit your situation.
Please ask questions.
. Fine scratches, spider webbing, and swirls, are the most common names.The darker the color the more obvious they are.
Take a look at a Silver car versus a black car, and you will see what I mean.
Look for those fine scratches in Silver or White, they are almost impossible to see, unless you get in just the right light. On a dark colored car they seem to really show up in any bright light.
They are caused by washing/drying and using a detail spray with towels/mitts not really made for auto detailing.
I swear dealers wash their cars with a wisk broom.
Once you have them, and trust me even the best show cars have them, they are difficult to get rid of. I have been amazed at what I see when I go to a show. The local Corvette Club, where I am also a sponsor, has told me they will never let me judge paint finish, I am too picky and can spot swirl marks in a white car from 500 yards
So, the best way to get rid of them is with a very mild abrasive, 3M Swirl mark Remover is one of the better products that is readily available, Meguiar's also makes a very good Swirl Mark remover. Zaino has just come out with a mild Paint Cleaner that I like.
There are polishes/waxes that will fill them in but they are temporary and for many that is fine
Generally you need a good buffer to really do it right. It takes a combination of heat, friction and an abrasive to clean up the clearcoat. It can be done by hand, but be prepared to get physical.
A good abrasive will break down as it is worked and create a final polishing compound, much the same way a jeweler's polish works. Heat and friction really make that happen.
They start out cleaning the surface of any major imperfections, and as the compund is worked, it breaks down into finer particles and begins to polish the surface. As you continue to work it, the compund continues to remove remove the scratches and polish the surface.
Keep in mind, it is the same thing as using an 80 grit sand paper on a piece of wood to remove the major imperfections, then to a 200 grit, to a 600, then to a 1000 grit. Each successive number smooths the surface and removes finer imperfections and makes it smoother than the last.
Now that I have boggled the mind a bit with all the technical jargon, let's make it easy.
Using any major brand Swirl Mark remover will help reduce what you have. Many polish manufacturers have products that will remove and polish/wax at the same time. I prefer a single step Swirl mark Remover with no polish/wax in it, so I know I have actually cleaned up the surface.
A buffer is the best way, but it can be done by hand. Read the product instructions and make sure you are getting a product that will work for you.
Don't buy a product that advises using a buffer, and expect easy/good results by hand. Same goes the other way.
I might add, a good claying of the surface to remove "stuff" that is stuck to your paint, is advisable. I learned that one the hard way. I used 3M Swirl Mark Removed on a washed but somewaht dirty surface(After a wash and dry, run your hand over the hood and feel all the little bumps? That is dirt stuck to the paint that normal washing does not remove) and created a bigger mess than what I had to begin with. Basically the pad picked up the "stuff" stuck to the paint surface, and used it like 80 grit sand paper. I was slightly more than upset with myself when I saw the final result.
Once you have eliminated them, quality car care porducts will help reduce their creation.
Run the CD test on your washing mitts/towels. The CD test consists of rubbing the recorded side of a CD with your mitt/towel in one direction with fairly heavy pressure. If you see fine scratches in the direction you were rubbing, that will happen to your paint.
You have to take some of my fanatical detailing behavior and use it to suit your situation.
Please ask questions.
09-08-2006, 04:16 AM
#8
Senior Member
Join Date: 04-11-2006
Location: Eufaula, Oklahoma
Posts: 166
swirls
Originally Posted by EZ4U2CHere
I use Zaino Z-5. That stuff rocks!!!! 
There are no abrasives in this, so it really doesn't remove the spider webs or swirl marks, but it hides them and holds up very good.
There are no abrasives in this, so it really doesn't remove the spider webs or swirl marks, but it hides them and holds up very good.
