I had the same issue and ended up replacing the small motors inside the door look assemblies, as described in the "How To" Tutorial Library / Door Lock Assembly Fix: https://www.chevyhhr.net/forums/how-...ts-pics-45839/
Haven't had any issues for the last couple of years after having replaced them.
Unfortunately, the motor type mentioned in the How To (Mabuchi “FC-280SC-18180” with a coarse toothed gear on) doesn't seem to be available anymore; or at least not easily found.

 

Thanks for all the ideas and the link, I didn't see that one.
I will start with the easy ones, and work my way until it works.
It's a minor inconvenience, so it'll take me a while to get to the hard stuff.

It's correct it does pop right up with the button on the door, which makes it confusing.

So far I replaced the original car battery, still tested just fine. But figured it was long enough anyway. That didn't fix the lock issue.
Will try the fob battery's and go from there.

 

For some odd reason Remote Start and Remote Door Vehicle Entry show signs of wear quicker than the manual methods. It is strange that sometimes the starter acts slow with the remote, but fine with the key. It's the same relay.

 

Thanks for looking into that issue, Don.
I hesitate to post it, but I'm currently entertaining a theory - maybe the fobs, as they go bad, don't put out a long enough pulse of the signal to the receiver, or the pulse is confused, like part 'unlock' mixed with part 'lock'.. or just degraded in some other way.
I'll be trying my new fobs once they're programmed to the car.
It makes no sense- if it's the same relay, why would the resulting action be different? If it's the same wiring, off the same relay, that would indicate the operator of the relay is not kicking out the required output for some reason..
When I press the button on the door, I hold it until the lock goes up subconsciously. The receiver and relay won't do that.

 

Writing it out made me realize it could all be 'duration'. The duration of the signal to the relay is another programmed factor in the car.
Programmed to work with freely operating, new lock motors..
Rats.
I prolly need a new lock.

 

Ok, got the two Ebay fobs programmed, have cycled the lock about 20 times, and so far, it's fixed :)

Here's the ones I got- (they work)
Good ones

 

Two things I have to add... I had this issue, and tried all kinds of stuff. Buying 2 new GM fobs fixed it. Not cheap.

Second, the RF hub is sensitive to battery voltage, so if your battery is aging, the response could be weaker. Just an idea to consider. Low voltage is way more of an issue than it ever used to be. New cars throw faults that aren't really serious because the battery sat for 90 days...

I tell techs to fix the charge first, reset the codes, and then see what you get. Most times, it's just unhappy computers.

 

I changed my battery earlier this summer for a new AC/Delco and fixed a broken clamp on one cable. Voltage is good, I watch it all the time.
When it would get low it did show some temperamental lights that would go away on the next start, or the one after. She has personality and resents a low battery. I agree with ya on that.

 

If the techs would bother to read the manual they would find that most of the OBD2 tests have a minimum voltage in the "conditions for running" section of the code. Too bad they only know how to read the title of the tests listed on the code reader.

 

Update- My lock isn't completely fixed. Once in ten tries it goes up a little slow. It goes up, but not like it should.
It really is tiired. Need to take the panel off and do what I can. It's no rush for me, but needs to get done before winter.
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