Moonwink

I recently learned the battery life for the TPMS sensors is 10-12 years. That must be why I have one that stopped working -duh!
What's the best way to go with these? What are the recommendations (brands/models) for replacing the sensors in a 2009? I looked over Rock Auto's assortment and see quite a range. Then I looked at eBay's listings and saw several complete sets for the price of just one at Rock Auto - does anyone have any experience with them? I really don't believe in taking my own eggs into a diner and asking them to cook them for me so I probably won't buy the sensors and take them to the tire shop.
I don't need tires right now so just looking to have the sensors replaced. I don't think I could pop the tire bead and do it myself so this sounds like something I'll have to take it to someone with the equipment needed.
Guidance please...

mongo

I just bought new wheels and tires from Discount tire, TPMS cost $60 each there and they program them for you. You also get a warranty. Well worth it IMO

Oldblue

I purchased the EBay sensors, popped the tire bead myself using the HHR’s weight, and replaced them. I’ve got 4 more to do in the spring, my new to me summer wheels don’t have sensors, so fun time!

donbrew

2008 - 2009 can be programmed by the casual owner that can read the Owner Manual. I would go for cheapest. Tire stores claim they have to use "special" tools and training to do the job; B.S. there is a torque spec but it is so tiny there isn't much use in using a special torque screwdriver or knowing not to yank the stem out before removing the sensor.

mongo

OP states he's not sure if he can do it himself, that's a big factor. I have the tools to do it myself but chose not to because A) I was buying new wheels and tires anyway, and B) It's freaking cold out.

As far as special tools, I have the Autel TPMS tester and it makes the job much faster, and also helps troubleshoot wonky TPMS. I've bought the cheap ebay sensors in the past, one thing to look out for is 'new old stock'. I got burned on some Chrysler sensors that were factory, new in box, Mopar sensors- but they were already 10 years old and 3 of the four failed after 6 months.

I'll go the cheap route on a flip car, but it's worth it to me to spend a bit more and get a warranty on something I plan to keep.

donbrew

A) the special tool I was referencing is the torque screwdriver. Just don't try to be King Kong, and make sure they are snug.
B) on 2008-2009 models programming can be done by releasing or adding air to the tire, no tool required. Some 2010 and all 2011 models do require a TPMS tool. All need a fob.
C) dismounting tires to change sensors is beyond most peoples skill level, but is expensive. Have it done when you get new tires. $20 a wheel labor for dismount/remount and balance is not unreasonable.
D) paying $60 to turn a screw is ridiculous, with a torque tool or not.

Moonwink

I've reprogrammed the sensors a couple of times. The steps are in the 2009 HHR owner's manual. That's a problem. Breaking the tire beads is the problem. I like the last step listed here - put the valve caps back on. The trouble is, if just one sensor is bad, you can't complete the procedure successfully. TPMS Sensor Matching Process

Each TPMS sensor has a unique identification code. Any time you replace one or more of the TPMS sensors or rotate the vehicle’s tires, the identification codes need to be matched to the new tire/wheel location. The sensors are matched, to the tire/wheel locations, in the following order: driver side front tire, passenger side front tire, passenger side rear tire, and driver side rear tire using a TPMS diagnostic tool. See your dealer/retailer for service. The TPMS sensors can also be matched to each tire/wheel position by increasing or decreasing the tire’s air pressure. When increasing the tire’s pressure, do not exceed the maximum inflation pressure indicated on the tire’s sidewall. To decrease the tire’s air-pressure use the pointed end of the valve cap, a pencil-style air pressure gauge, or a key. You have two minutes to match each tire and wheel position. If it takes longer than two minutes to match any tire and wheel position, the matching process stops and you need to start over. The TPMS matching process is outlined below:

1. Set the parking brake.

2. Turn the ignition switch to ON/RUN with the engine off.

3. Press and hold the Remote Keyless Entry (RKE) transmitter’s LOCK and UNLOCK buttons, at the same time, for about five seconds to start the TPMS learn mode. The horn sounds twice indicating the TPMS receiver is ready and in learn mode.

4. Start with the driver side front tire. The driver side front turn signal also comes on to indicate that corner’s sensor is ready to be learned.

5. Remove the valve cap from the tire’s valve stem. Activate the TPMS sensor by increasing or decreasing the tire’s air pressure for about eight seconds. The horn chirp, can take up to 30 seconds to sound. It chirps one time and then all the turn signals flash one time to confirm the sensor identification code has been matched to the tire/wheel position.

6. The passenger side front turn signal comes on to indicate that corner sensor is ready to be learned. Proceed to the passenger side front tire and repeat the procedure in Step 5.

7. The passenger side rear turn signal comes on to indicate that corner sensor is ready to be learned. Proceed to the passenger side rear tire and repeat the procedure in Step 5.

8. The driver side rear turn signal comes on to indicate that corner sensor is ready to be learned. Proceed to the driver side rear tire, and repeat the procedure in Step 5.

9. After hearing the single horn chirp for the driver side rear tire, two additional horn chirps sound to indicate the tire learning process is done. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK/OFF. If no tires are learned after entering the TPMS learn mode, or if communication with the receiver stops, or if the time limit has expired, turn the ignition switch to LOCK/OFF and start over beginning with Step 2.

10. Set all four tires to the recommended air pressure level as indicated on the Tire and Loading Information label.

11. Put the valve caps back on the valve stems.

Oldblue

I’ve used method two in this video

donbrew

But we have tIres here. Tyre is a city in Lebanon.

Moonwink

Back in the day when sidewalls were stiffer, you could slowly drive over the tire and pop the bead. I've used a bottle jack placed as close to the bead as I could get it to force it down with a little success but as I mentioned, the sidewalls on tires fold so easy these days, it's much harder to do that. That's were tire changers come in handy.
I just got off the phone with a local tire shop who quoted me close to $95 each for the sensors and another $20 to rebalance the tires after replacing the sensor. He suggested and I agree to put up with the warning light until I need tires. Of note, he said he's tried some of the cheap import sensors with very bad luck - that some of them had dead batteries when he opened the package. He strongly recommended using OEM sensors purchased at a GM parts house. That was the real intent of my asking here about what you folks have experienced with sensors and what you recommend.
At the cost of buying the OEM sensors and having the tire shop change them, it would pay me to buy one of these Harbor Freight bead brakers :
https://www.harborfreight.com/bead-breaker-92961.html for $53. Anyone tried using one of them?