Heated Mirrors
#1
Heated Mirrors
Does anybody know where I can find a heater element to be place on the back of each mirror? I can't find anything anywhere. I know this is not an option, but during winter months in NJ, you need them.
Any help would be appreciated.
Any help would be appreciated.
#3
As I speak (actually type) I have a set of mirror heating elements that stick to the back of the mirror. I bought an extra set of right and left hand mirror glass units from the dealer (about $20 each I think). Unfortunately, they come glued to the plastic backing. I heated them to about 200 degress and this allowed the glue to soften and I could separate the backing from the mirror carefully. That's where it's at now.
In the fall, I plan to complete the project (no time now) and will post a how-to. Essentially, the remaining part is to stick the heating elements to the back of the mirror (they are self-adhesive), reattach the plastic backing plate (probably with 3m double-sided VHB tape), and then wire the heating elements to the electrical system. I'll probably do what GM did in my Suburban, the mirror heaters come on with the rear defogger.
The heating elements are from Burco:
http://www.burcoinc.com/products/oth...di_heat_grids/
I think I paid about $40 each for the two elements.
Steve
In the fall, I plan to complete the project (no time now) and will post a how-to. Essentially, the remaining part is to stick the heating elements to the back of the mirror (they are self-adhesive), reattach the plastic backing plate (probably with 3m double-sided VHB tape), and then wire the heating elements to the electrical system. I'll probably do what GM did in my Suburban, the mirror heaters come on with the rear defogger.
The heating elements are from Burco:
http://www.burcoinc.com/products/oth...di_heat_grids/
I think I paid about $40 each for the two elements.
Steve
#4
As I speak (actually type) I have a set of mirror heating elements that stick to the back of the mirror. I bought an extra set of right and left hand mirror glass units from the dealer (about $20 each I think). Unfortunately, they come glued to the plastic backing. I heated them to about 200 degress and this allowed the glue to soften and I could separate the backing from the mirror carefully. That's where it's at now.
In the fall, I plan to complete the project (no time now) and will post a how-to. Essentially, the remaining part is to stick the heating elements to the back of the mirror (they are self-adhesive), reattach the plastic backing plate (probably with 3m double-sided VHB tape), and then wire the heating elements to the electrical system. I'll probably do what GM did in my Suburban, the mirror heaters come on with the rear defogger.
The heating elements are from Burco:
http://www.burcoinc.com/products/oth...di_heat_grids/
I think I paid about $40 each for the two elements.
Steve
In the fall, I plan to complete the project (no time now) and will post a how-to. Essentially, the remaining part is to stick the heating elements to the back of the mirror (they are self-adhesive), reattach the plastic backing plate (probably with 3m double-sided VHB tape), and then wire the heating elements to the electrical system. I'll probably do what GM did in my Suburban, the mirror heaters come on with the rear defogger.
The heating elements are from Burco:
http://www.burcoinc.com/products/oth...di_heat_grids/
I think I paid about $40 each for the two elements.
Steve
#6
Second: How to get the power wires through the rubber seal/electrical connector on the doors and then out to the mirror assemblies? Where the rubber boot leaves the vehicle body to the door there is an integral electrical connector located there. Check it out by prying the boot at the vehicle. AND when you do, put it back right, this is where some people have reported water intrusion into the vehicle. Have no idea about the path from inside the door to the mirror assembly.
I have no ready answers for the above AND I can't seem to get that boot back together right yet - I'll work on it before the rain come. I will, I will!
#7
Lol, I'm not too worried about the boot, I haven't taken it off yet, but I know i will definately look into this before I try it! As far as the Fuses, I was going to put an inline fuse before attaching the wires, just to be sure. i'm not too concerned about it though, i rarely use the defroster as it is unless it snows. But what will be nice is when i remote start the defroster automatically comes on, thus clearing the mirrors and the rear window.
#8
I've now got the boot back on as well. You will be concerned about the "boot" when you see how little room there is to add anything past it. Very neat construction and ease of assembly, but no provision for the future.
I don't think you understood about the switch, fuse, relay and current concerns I had. The defroster switch can handle no current, it is a very simple control switch that tells the BCM to energize the DEFOG Relay. The associated fuse feeds the relay contacts and the output of the relay feeds the defogger.
My source is the 2009 FSM.
I don't think you understood about the switch, fuse, relay and current concerns I had. The defroster switch can handle no current, it is a very simple control switch that tells the BCM to energize the DEFOG Relay. The associated fuse feeds the relay contacts and the output of the relay feeds the defogger.
My source is the 2009 FSM.
#9
Steve