I thought that DRL's were high beams at half power. Controlled through the BCM. There is 1 fuse and 1 relay for them.

 

That's what I thought as well.
But maybe I can tap into the fuse and pull the relay?

That way I don't have to cut any wires...

The headlight wire would control the HIDs and no longer have DRL function and then I can run a line from the fuse to my own relay and trigger the LEDs.

How about that???

What fuse is it?

I wonder if I could shove a lightbulb in the fuse location with an add a circuit adapter and test if it works.

So your saying the BCM sends a signal to the relay but it first goes through a fuse? Or fuse after the relay, which may still work?

 

Ohh yeah, what about when I unlock the car and the headlights turn on?

Are those the DRL turning on until you start the car or are those the low/high beams?

And I believe I can turn that feature off in the dash options where you can reset the oil.

 

Low beams low power = DRL.

You could run a new wire from the fuse box to the new DRL lamps. That would take care of that . Either the headlights are on or the DRLs are on, failsafe relays. I might look at the difference in wiring between 2006 and 2007. 2006 has the turn signals for DRL.

 

Run a wire from the "out" side of fuse #31 (disconnect the existing wire c2) purple wire.

The BCM supplies GROUND to the relay. The relay supplies 12V to the fuse. There must be a diode somewhere to limit the voltage for DRL. Connector c121 is near the L headlight, you could probably just cut the Purple wire there and tap it.

The 2006 model has no DRL relay.

The wiring confuses me. I may be wrong.

 

c121 is #7 in the pic.

 

Or since the relay powers the fuse, I can pull the fuse, tap into the positive side of it and add a new fuse leaving the old one out.

If 12v shows up at the fuse then I would get power to my new DRL but with the old fuse removed the old DRL circuit will remain open and won't interfere.

If it's not 12v, I don't see in the circuit where the voltage drops, but it does show .35 per unit, vs the low beam .5pu so there is definitely less voltage appearing.

 

I figured if you tapped & cut at the connector, the DRL system would just operate as designed but use your new LEDs and use less wire.

I'm taking a wild guess there is a zener diode at the c1 branch. If something is cheaper diode they would use it.

PU means purple wire. I thought the .35 was the wire size, can't figure the 359.

 

Oh, ok cool.

I also decided on fast bright f3 ballasts 35w. I heard they were good and reliable.

You guys heard of them?

And any reason I should go with 55w vs 35w?
I figure the 35w will stay cooler and still provide plenty of output???

 

Another question...
Our headlight don't have error messages right?

Just the blinkers and rear high mount require canbus correct?

Hyper flash