static cling window tint
static cling window tint
Has anyone used this?
I'm trying to figure out the best mixture of water/soap or other products to apply to the window that let me move the entire piece freely while I set it in place.
I'm trying to figure out the best mixture of water/soap or other products to apply to the window that let me move the entire piece freely while I set it in place.
At one time I had a small body and radiator shop. The idea was to buy a few repairable wrecks and fix them during the off season from my roofing job.
I ended up being a general repair, body, and radiator shop that had so much outside work I barely got my own stuff done.
So yes I have used the plastic window tint. I discovered it was simplest to remove the glass lay the plastic and put the glass back in.
Yes, it is a lot of work but it will look the best in the long run. I would wash the glass with denatured alcohol then immediately apply the plastic. I used Stanley razor knives and replaced the blade for each window sometimes I'd use more than one blade for just one window.
I also discovered that it helped a lot to have the shop uncomfortably warm while applying the film. Also I would always use a lot of bunched up clean shop rags to support the glass on the bench.
I've wondered how the new metallic window tint is done, probably the same way I guess but I have never had any to play with.
I ended up being a general repair, body, and radiator shop that had so much outside work I barely got my own stuff done.
So yes I have used the plastic window tint. I discovered it was simplest to remove the glass lay the plastic and put the glass back in.
Yes, it is a lot of work but it will look the best in the long run. I would wash the glass with denatured alcohol then immediately apply the plastic. I used Stanley razor knives and replaced the blade for each window sometimes I'd use more than one blade for just one window.
I also discovered that it helped a lot to have the shop uncomfortably warm while applying the film. Also I would always use a lot of bunched up clean shop rags to support the glass on the bench.
I've wondered how the new metallic window tint is done, probably the same way I guess but I have never had any to play with.
If it's "static cling" any fluid will defeat the cling part. If you are talking about the most common type, the directions usually say to use plain water to activate the glue on the film which in turn acts as a lubricant until it dries.
When all else fails I usually find the directions that I threw away with the bag and the receipt and read them.
When all else fails I usually find the directions that I threw away with the bag and the receipt and read them.
At one time I had a small body and radiator shop. The idea was to buy a few repairable wrecks and fix them during the off season from my roofing job.
I ended up being a general repair, body, and radiator shop that had so much outside work I barely got my own stuff done.
So yes I have used the plastic window tint. I discovered it was simplest to remove the glass lay the plastic and put the glass back in.
Yes, it is a lot of work but it will look the best in the long run. I would wash the glass with denatured alcohol then immediately apply the plastic. I used Stanley razor knives and replaced the blade for each window sometimes I'd use more than one blade for just one window.
I also discovered that it helped a lot to have the shop uncomfortably warm while applying the film. Also I would always use a lot of bunched up clean shop rags to support the glass on the bench.
I've wondered how the new metallic window tint is done, probably the same way I guess but I have never had any to play with.
I ended up being a general repair, body, and radiator shop that had so much outside work I barely got my own stuff done.
So yes I have used the plastic window tint. I discovered it was simplest to remove the glass lay the plastic and put the glass back in.
Yes, it is a lot of work but it will look the best in the long run. I would wash the glass with denatured alcohol then immediately apply the plastic. I used Stanley razor knives and replaced the blade for each window sometimes I'd use more than one blade for just one window.
I also discovered that it helped a lot to have the shop uncomfortably warm while applying the film. Also I would always use a lot of bunched up clean shop rags to support the glass on the bench.
I've wondered how the new metallic window tint is done, probably the same way I guess but I have never had any to play with.
http://www.windowfilm.com/NEW_PAGES/cling_tint.html
If it's "static cling" any fluid will defeat the cling part. If you are talking about the most common type, the directions usually say to use plain water to activate the glue on the film which in turn acts as a lubricant until it dries.
When all else fails I usually find the directions that I threw away with the bag and the receipt and read them.
When all else fails I usually find the directions that I threw away with the bag and the receipt and read them.
And no, you can still use water and soap and even hand sanitizer to apply the static cling stuff.
Don't waste your time on "static cling" tint. If it looks good it will only be the first time after that will look like a pimply derriere.
Just pay a pro. and do it permanent.
Many can be found here:
http://www.tintdude.com/forum/index....tdude_com.html
Just pay a pro. and do it permanent.
Many can be found here:
http://www.tintdude.com/forum/index....tdude_com.html
Hypostasis ( Tint my windows for 20.00 with static cling tint )
Observation ( 20.00 cost & DIY )
Experiment ( Do the install )
Conclusion ( ?)
Then you can write a thesis on this type of window tint ........
Clean glass, & spray soapy mix heavily on glass & cling as you remove the protective layer. once on, spray the back & using a squeegee work it out easily..
The fog in it will dry clear in a couple days.. I don't think 'cling -tint' on windows that roll down would be advisable tho..
I use it on (my home) rear storm door glass, w/excellent results.


