When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Problems/Service/RepairsIf you have a problem with your HHR, want a tip on repairing or performing a particular service to you HHR here is the place to post!
Hello folks, I’m new here, just bought a 2006 LS. This was a company car that may have had aftermarket electrical devices connected (I found cut wires attached to both the POS battery terminal and the ground post nearby). I’ve found several electrical issues so I’ll try to be as concise as possible while addressing all the issues.
Notes: Battery was dead when I bought it and jumping from the front terminals didn’t work, I had to connect to the actual battery. Battery has since been replaced after it tested bad. New battery is of course fully charged. There were cut wires attached to both the
All fuses in both blocks (and the 50amp on the battery) are good but I don’t know how to test relays.
1) Key fob does not work with a new battery and the contacts have been cleaned. Door locks work intermittently and the alarm chirps when I unlock the doors with the key since the fob doesn’t work.
2) Radio is tinny with low volume and sound only coming from the two tiny speakers on the windshield columns. I could not see any burnt parts on the radio circuit board. Seems like the amp is bad?
3) Heat/Air not working. You can hear it pulling on the battery when turned on but no air moves. Smelled electrical smoke the first time I tried the heat but haven’t smelled it since. Note: it smelled like electrical fire, not just old dust burning off. I found a little melted plastic on one pin of the wiring harness that attaches to the ON/OFF switch. Tried disconnecting the wiring harness to the blower fan to test for shorts but it runs through a relay so I can’t tell if the wires or the fan itself may be bad. I don’t want to have to replace the fan so hoping a replacement ON/OFF switch will fix it?
4) Cig lighter does not work. That fuse was bad (found that out when there was no power to the scanner port) but after replacing it the lighter still doesn’t work. Scanner port works.
5) Power mirror switch doesn’t work though the LED in it works.
I’m wondering if all these things are related since the wiring is all in the same general area? Or was the old battery the cause? The new battery doesn’t cause any of these to work either.
6) The car failed emissions, showing two MONITORS NOT READY. They were CAT & EVAP. Was told by the emissions tech that doing drive cycles would ready those monitors. I replaced the battery after it failed but haven’t been to emissions again because the new battery would cause all that to reset, correct? I wanted to see if all the electrical problems were related to this before going to emissions again. I’ve completed several drive cycles on the new battery. I’ve also noticed that it’s drinking more gas than it should, despite what the display says about economy.
7) Had starting issues and the CHECK ENGINE light came on after I took apart the instrument panel yesterday. Here is what I did:
Pulled every single fuse and all were good.
Loosened the bolt holding the red wire cluster that’s under all the fuses in the cabin block. No burnt wires or terminals there.
Loosened all four bolts holding the engine fuse block together but didn’t take the box apart. Tightened the bolts back down.
Took apart the instrument panel and disconnected everything except the switches that work—dimmer switch, passenger airbag indicator, and rear wiper switch. Hazards were not working but I found an unused wiring harness that was identical to the one on the hazard switch, except it was black instead of white like the one originally attached. Hazards now work on the black harness.
After doing all that I tried to start the engine but it would not start. There was power but it would not turn over. Also began showing SERVICE AIRBAG and ENGINE POWER REDUCED on the display. Also noticed the lights on the rear view mirror now work. Also now there’s no clicking sound with the turn signals. Tried to start several times but nothing. Went to the battery and flipped the 50amp fuse around and it started. While running I pulled the fuse and it died. Flipped the fuse again and put it back. Car would not start. Flipped it one more time and the car started. Don’t know why that would make a difference since the fuses can go in either way?
Now the CHECK ENGINE light is on so I’m headed to the store to have it scanned to see what codes it throws and to pick up a Haynes manual.
Sorry for the long post and all the questions, I just want everything to work so I can enjoy my HHR!
The door speakers are most likely dead. That is where the chimes and clicks come from. A very common problem. Could be the radio was messed with.
The battery cage in the fob may need to be re soldered.
A 2006 probably has a water leak under the cowl (SEARCH "butyl patch") that will kill the fan and it's resistor pack.
The CAT monitor runs constantly, so something is causing a failure. The EVAP can take 30 cold starts to run. All of the monitors reset when you clear codes or disconnect the battery.
The alarm should only be set if you lock with the fob. I don't know why it chirps at all. You don't mention any warning icons on the dash. Like the security icon.
Have gone through the personalization menu (Owner Manual via link in my sig)?
•So since I disconnected the radio that’s why I’m not getting sound from the turn signals. I see.
•Battery cage had already been resoldered in the fob but it still doesn’t work.
•Figured out that the blower motor resistor was burnt and replaced the crappy seal with a piece of aluminum flashing. That’ll never leak again! Hoping the fan itself is still good. We’ll see when the new resistor arrives and I install it.
•I’ve read that the CAT monitor will run during the second 55mph section of a drive cycle. I’ve had to disconnect the battery a few times recently so I’ll be doing more drive cycles when I can. I’ve also read this can take as many as 20 cold starts to run that monitor.
•In my booklet it describes the particular alarm setting that chirps for ten seconds then goes to full alarm when the doors or hood are opened without the fob. Does not, however, describe how to disarm it. The padlock icon lights up whenever I lock the car from the door to get out. No other warnings on the display.
•I’ve found no setting in the personalization menu to disarm the alarm, only locking options (Auto Lock, Delay Lock, Ext Lights, etc.) and the language and oil reset.
•I’m not sure about the recalls because there are no service records.
Regarding the alarm, instructions for disarming are in the paragraph before the chirping part. The alarm section starts on page 2-16.
2006-2008, the system arms with the fob OR by locking the doors electrically. So if you want to lock without arming the system, you lock with the plunger at the top of the door panel. You may be able to lock electrically(for convenience), then pull the driver plunger up, then push it back down(or maybe lock it with the key after closing the door), and shut the door. Give it a try, let us know if that works.
I've got a 2009, so I can't try myself, but I seem to remember someone suggesting that.
I suppose it is just too much effort to click on the link I provided to get the recall status?
Believe whatever you like to read on the internet. The P0420 DTC runs continuosly, unless there are some other problems. There is a long list of pending codes that will inhibit the test.
If you can get any result from running the correct drive cycle you are a better man than me. First disregard every definition from the internet of a drive cycle, it depends on the year and model.
Turns out neither of the recalls [ignition switch (#N140063) nor ignition lock cylinder & ignition key replacement (#N140113)] have been performed. Will they still do these for free even after so many years?
Hello folks, I’m new here, just bought a 2006 LS. This was a company car that may have had aftermarket electrical devices connected (I found cut wires attached to both the POS battery terminal and the ground post nearby). I’ve found several electrical issues so I’ll try to be as concise as possible while addressing all the issues.
Notes: Battery was dead when I bought it and jumping from the front terminals didn’t work, I had to connect to the actual battery. Battery has since been replaced after it tested bad. New battery is of course fully charged. There were cut wires attached to both the
All fuses in both blocks (and the 50amp on the battery) are good but I don’t know how to test relays.
1) Key fob does not work with a new battery and the contacts have been cleaned. Door locks work intermittently and the alarm chirps when I unlock the doors with the key since the fob doesn’t work.
2) Radio is tinny with low volume and sound only coming from the two tiny speakers on the windshield columns. I could not see any burnt parts on the radio circuit board. Seems like the amp is bad?
3) Heat/Air not working. You can hear it pulling on the battery when turned on but no air moves. Smelled electrical smoke the first time I tried the heat but haven’t smelled it since. Note: it smelled like electrical fire, not just old dust burning off. I found a little melted plastic on one pin of the wiring harness that attaches to the ON/OFF switch. Tried disconnecting the wiring harness to the blower fan to test for shorts but it runs through a relay so I can’t tell if the wires or the fan itself may be bad. I don’t want to have to replace the fan so hoping a replacement ON/OFF switch will fix it?
4) Cig lighter does not work. That fuse was bad (found that out when there was no power to the scanner port) but after replacing it the lighter still doesn’t work. Scanner port works.
5) Power mirror switch doesn’t work though the LED in it works.
I’m wondering if all these things are related since the wiring is all in the same general area? Or was the old battery the cause? The new battery doesn’t cause any of these to work either.
6) The car failed emissions, showing two MONITORS NOT READY. They were CAT & EVAP. Was told by the emissions tech that doing drive cycles would ready those monitors. I replaced the battery after it failed but haven’t been to emissions again because the new battery would cause all that to reset, correct? I wanted to see if all the electrical problems were related to this before going to emissions again. I’ve completed several drive cycles on the new battery. I’ve also noticed that it’s drinking more gas than it should, despite what the display says about economy.
7) Had starting issues and the CHECK ENGINE light came on after I took apart the instrument panel yesterday. Here is what I did:
Pulled every single fuse and all were good.
Loosened the bolt holding the red wire cluster that’s under all the fuses in the cabin block. No burnt wires or terminals there.
Loosened all four bolts holding the engine fuse block together but didn’t take the box apart. Tightened the bolts back down.
Took apart the instrument panel and disconnected everything except the switches that work—dimmer switch, passenger airbag indicator, and rear wiper switch. Hazards were not working but I found an unused wiring harness that was identical to the one on the hazard switch, except it was black instead of white like the one originally attached. Hazards now work on the black harness.
After doing all that I tried to start the engine but it would not start. There was power but it would not turn over. Also began showing SERVICE AIRBAG and ENGINE POWER REDUCED on the display. Also noticed the lights on the rear view mirror now work. Also now there’s no clicking sound with the turn signals. Tried to start several times but nothing. Went to the battery and flipped the 50amp fuse around and it started. While running I pulled the fuse and it died. Flipped the fuse again and put it back. Car would not start. Flipped it one more time and the car started. Don’t know why that would make a difference since the fuses can go in either way?
Now the CHECK ENGINE light is on so I’m headed to the store to have it scanned to see what codes it throws and to pick up a Haynes manual.
Sorry for the long post and all the questions, I just want everything to work so I can enjoy my HHR!
WOOOOO NELLY! lol Uhm, I will try my best to help with this....
7) The one I marked in red, to get the car to start, turn the key ignition on, use a scan tool and clear the codes to start the car. This usually has something to do with the throttle positioning sensor and MAF/IAT sensor.
Overall, It sounds like you are having REALLY BAD ECM and BCM communication.
1) This is a common issue. When you disconnect the battery, it looses its memory with the key fobs and you have to reprogam them.
2) You must have the Ecotec 2.2... This is a very common issue. Again you are having BCM communication errors. Someone else tried self diagnosing and started cutting wires. You need a wiggle test of sorts.
3) Replace the blower motor. :/
4 & 5) You need to take off the door panel and get a better look at the wiring situation. The door handles are notorius for breaking and people take those door panels on and off all the time. May have missed something. The cig lighter, Just replace it. They are cheap.
All together man, You DESPERATLEY need a tech 2 to figure out what is going on electrically man.
04-05-2018, 10:42 AM
