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Problems/Service/RepairsIf you have a problem with your HHR, want a tip on repairing or performing a particular service to you HHR here is the place to post!
1. WRONG! Some 2008 models need updated RCDLR firmware.
2. WRONG! Common yes, nothing to do with the BCM usually water damaged speakers.
3. WRONG! it is a 2006, so the butyl patch needs to be replaced then replace the motor and resistor.
4. Typically people think that the 12V auxiliary power outlet is a cig lighter. Put a lighter element in it and melt it and blow the fuse.
5. Common problem is water damage to the switch.
1. WRONG! Some 2008 models need updated RCDLR firmware.
2. WRONG! Common yes, nothing to do with the BCM usually water damaged speakers.
3. WRONG! it is a 2006, so the butyl patch needs to be replaced then replace the motor and resistor.
4. Typically people think that the 12V auxiliary power outlet is a cig lighter. Put a lighter element in it and melt it and blow the fuse.
5. Common problem is water damage to the switch.
I don't know why everybody is fast to blame those scary computers for everything, even things with no connection to them.
The only connection between the radio and the BCM is the security system (the radio won't work at all if the numbers don't match) and the chimes that are produced/commanded by the BCM and heard through the left front speakers. The radio does send some information TO the BCM, there are DTCs relating to the speakers.
They introduced new firmware for the RCDLR in 2008 when TPMS became mandatory, it allowed the memory to be affected by a power outage. New firmware is available from Tis2Web.
I think the sizes of the speakers is incorrect, this is from the 2006 manual.
Okay, took the car to Chevy dealership for the ignition recalls this morning. Two recalls done and now I have two new keys and an ignition switch.
•Key fob is dead. Said they can replace it for $150. That seems reasonable since a new one is $60-70 and they have to program it.
•As I thought (since I’ve replaced the resistor and tested the harness), the blower motor is dead. Gonna try to cut it out and replace it myself.
Had the MIL on for P0480 even after having replaced the relay and checked the harness on the fan itself. Went by AutoZone two days ago to have them scan it and three codes popped up: P0480 again, then P2534 (ignition switch low voltage), and P0700 (TCM request MIL Illumination). The car had driven fine all day then after hooking up the scanner it threw those three codes and it seemed like it was stuck in limp mode all the way home (not downshifting going uphill, RPMs at 3500+, and RPMs falling more rapidly than normal after letting off the gas). I drove it home and let it sit most of yesterday, then test drove it in the afternoon after pulling some fuses and relays. Drove just fine despite the light still being on! Got in this morning to take for the recalls and the light was out, car driving just fine! So far it has stayed out. Techs told me the ignition code should be good now that they did the recalls, thought maybe the TCM code was a fluke since it was fine on fluid and since I had messed with fuses. Hoping it’ll stay off so I can go to emissions!
Okay, took the car to Chevy dealership for the ignition recalls this morning. Two recalls done and now I have two new keys and an ignition switch.
•Key fob is dead. Said they can replace it for $150. That seems reasonable since a new one is $60-70 and they have to program it.
•As I thought (since I’ve replaced the resistor and tested the harness), the blower motor is dead. Gonna try to cut it out and replace it myself.
Had the MIL on for P0480 even after having replaced the relay and checked the harness on the fan itself. Went by AutoZone two days ago to have them scan it and three codes popped up: P0480 again, then P2534 (ignition switch low voltage), and P0700 (TCM request MIL Illumination). The car had driven fine all day then after hooking up the scanner it threw those three codes and it seemed like it was stuck in limp mode all the way home (not downshifting going uphill, RPMs at 3500+, and RPMs falling more rapidly than normal after letting off the gas). I drove it home and let it sit most of yesterday, then test drove it in the afternoon after pulling some fuses and relays. Drove just fine despite the light still being on! Got in this morning to take for the recalls and the light was out, car driving just fine! So far it has stayed out. Techs told me the ignition code should be good now that they did the recalls, thought maybe the TCM code was a fluke since it was fine on fluid and since I had messed with fuses. Hoping it’ll stay off so I can go to emissions!
I had that trans issue once. I let the car sit over night and then it fixed itself. Just popped up one day, and then nothing. :/ Really weird.
You can buy a fob with a programming module for less than $90. You can buy a fob for $15 and have a locksmith program it for far less the $100. So $150 is NOT reasonable.
P0700 means "something isn't right here" , could be anything like low voltage.
Is the fan working?
Did you read post #11? The cause of the resistor and fan failure is a water leak at the butyl patch under the cowl.
Gonna hold off on the fob for now, already found what I need a lot cheaper online. I’ll have to check the ignition fuses since I was in there replacing others a couple days ago. Fan is completely dead. I figured it was since I replaced the butyl patch and resistor and tested the wiring harness. Heater controls work, just not moving any air.
04-14-2018, 03:08 PM
