2009 hhr hatch lock wont stay locked
#1
2009 hhr hatch lock wont stay locked
its a 2009 hhr and there was some kind of cheesy stereo system installed with twisted wires and spaghetti custom wiring that I ripped out and connected all the oem stuff back in.
along with the hatch lock that was bypassed and aftermarket door actuator with a switch was used instead.
I removed all that and turns out the oem hatch lock still works
BUT
it doesn't deactivate when doors are locked.
I searched here and found that by removing fuse #11 the problem should be fixed.
but
when I remove fuse 11 the hatch lock stops working completely
the fix says it should work like supposed to when fuse#11 is removed
I checked the wiring and fixed it in the hatch so its all where it supposed to be
is there another problem that I don't know about?
along with the hatch lock that was bypassed and aftermarket door actuator with a switch was used instead.
I removed all that and turns out the oem hatch lock still works
BUT
it doesn't deactivate when doors are locked.
I searched here and found that by removing fuse #11 the problem should be fixed.
but
when I remove fuse 11 the hatch lock stops working completely
the fix says it should work like supposed to when fuse#11 is removed
I checked the wiring and fixed it in the hatch so its all where it supposed to be
is there another problem that I don't know about?
Last edited by 843de; 12-04-2015 at 04:27 PM. Reason: Removed potentially offensive wording...
#2
Welcome to the site.
So. Is this a LS, LT or SS ? Just curious.
Unfortunately, the problem is someone has monkeyed around with the wiring. Don't really have any suggestions except to maybe find another HHR that you can compare the wiring with.
Not trying to avoid helping out. I used to do my fair share of automotive wiring problems back in my tech days. Sounds like you've got a real interesting one to trace down.
So. Is this a LS, LT or SS ? Just curious.
Unfortunately, the problem is someone has monkeyed around with the wiring. Don't really have any suggestions except to maybe find another HHR that you can compare the wiring with.
Not trying to avoid helping out. I used to do my fair share of automotive wiring problems back in my tech days. Sounds like you've got a real interesting one to trace down.
#4
aboard fuzzysig!
If it's that hacked and whacked up, I'd suggest starting fresh with GM pn 15266735 which is the wiring harness for the rear of an HHR.
They're available online for around $105, and it'll save you pulling your hair out in clumps.
If it's that hacked and whacked up, I'd suggest starting fresh with GM pn 15266735 which is the wiring harness for the rear of an HHR.
They're available online for around $105, and it'll save you pulling your hair out in clumps.
#5
Did you pull fuse #11 from the under hood fuse box? (Not the fuse box under the dash)
If so and you still have the problem then you need to check for voltage on circuit #1221 (WH/BK). There should not be voltage there when doors are locked.
If so and you still have the problem then you need to check for voltage on circuit #1221 (WH/BK). There should not be voltage there when doors are locked.
Last edited by Lucky; 12-04-2015 at 09:46 PM.
#6
thanks lucky. ill do that
the wiring was cut at the hatch motor. everything else was fine.
I don't need another harness. I do electrical troubleshooting all the time
I'm just wondering how would I tell if its a problem with BCM?
because its obvious that they bypassed the trunk motor so they can cut power to it with a separate switch so it stays locked when doors are locked.
and plus the motor was burned I had to fix that too. it works now but doesn't lock with doors when fuse is in and doesn't work at all when the fuse is out. I checked all the wiring inside the hatch everything else looks good.
but I will check the white black.
and if theres voltage what would that be?
the wiring was cut at the hatch motor. everything else was fine.
I don't need another harness. I do electrical troubleshooting all the time
I'm just wondering how would I tell if its a problem with BCM?
because its obvious that they bypassed the trunk motor so they can cut power to it with a separate switch so it stays locked when doors are locked.
and plus the motor was burned I had to fix that too. it works now but doesn't lock with doors when fuse is in and doesn't work at all when the fuse is out. I checked all the wiring inside the hatch everything else looks good.
but I will check the white black.
and if theres voltage what would that be?
#7
I copied this from our TSB thread:
Pic5055
#PIC5055: Rear Hatch Will NOT Lock - keywords door fuse gate latch lift liftgate lock pad release RKE touch UBEC unlock - (Dec 11, 2008)
Subject: Rear Hatch Will NOT Lock
Models: 2006-2009 Chevrolet HHR
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
The following diagnosis might be helpful if the vehicle exhibits the symptom(s) described in this PI.
Condition/Concern:
The customer will notice that at anytime by using the touch pad on the rear lift gate the lift gate will open WITHOUT unlocking the vehicle.
Recommendation/Instructions:
If this condition exists, check for a fuse in position #11 in the Underhood Buss Electrical Center. If there is a fuse in that position, remove it, as it is not supposed to be there.
Note: A fuse in that position will cause the release relay (coil side) to stay powered up at all times and will only need a ground (touch pad) to activate the relay.
If no fuse is present then check for voltage on circuit #1221 (WH/BK) and proceed with diagnostics.
__________________
Pic5055
#PIC5055: Rear Hatch Will NOT Lock - keywords door fuse gate latch lift liftgate lock pad release RKE touch UBEC unlock - (Dec 11, 2008)
Subject: Rear Hatch Will NOT Lock
Models: 2006-2009 Chevrolet HHR
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
The following diagnosis might be helpful if the vehicle exhibits the symptom(s) described in this PI.
Condition/Concern:
The customer will notice that at anytime by using the touch pad on the rear lift gate the lift gate will open WITHOUT unlocking the vehicle.
Recommendation/Instructions:
If this condition exists, check for a fuse in position #11 in the Underhood Buss Electrical Center. If there is a fuse in that position, remove it, as it is not supposed to be there.
Note: A fuse in that position will cause the release relay (coil side) to stay powered up at all times and will only need a ground (touch pad) to activate the relay.
If no fuse is present then check for voltage on circuit #1221 (WH/BK) and proceed with diagnostics.
__________________
#9
Sounds like the previous owner co-opted the relay. The former switch probably controlled the relay, so it should be powered all the time and switched on/off? Maybe 1 more wire to disconnect, or reverse?
#10
no they ran an aftermarket actuator directly from the battery with a switch lol
and took the relay out.
I put the relay back in and fixed the wiring in the hatch and fixed the burned motor and everything works
except that lock thing above.
so I'm gonna check that when he brings the car back. its for one of my friends.
and took the relay out.
I put the relay back in and fixed the wiring in the hatch and fixed the burned motor and everything works
except that lock thing above.
so I'm gonna check that when he brings the car back. its for one of my friends.