jigsb

Hello OPs and the good folks on this forum. I do wish to pile on and have done enough research on this forum and you tube videos before this post. Maybe I am not looking in the right place...

I have the above C0050 code and message to show up on 2 of my new scan tools ($60 and $150) w/o any extra digits on the end. The ABS and Traction lights are on and will stay on at all times. In addition I have ESC off scrolling in the display. I have tried the battery trick and tried erasing via the OBD scan tools with no luck.

I removed the rear wheel and do not see any sensor socket or removable plug which I could pull to test voltage or connectivity. I cleaned the area nicely but no luck

Is there any video or tutorial with decent pictures which show how to troubleshoot the connectors, location, etc !? Do I need to remove the hub housing to get to the sensor's connector harness / male socket !?

On YouTube, i could only find videos on 2010 Front hubs or older 2006-2008 HHR rear hubs which did not have an integrated sensor. I have done a few repairs on my few other cars but never a wheel hub and speed sensor and i want to make sure I do it right.

Any help is immensely appreciated.

donbrew

The rear hubs are just like the fronts; there is a wire and connector. The sensor is integral to the hub.

The pigtail is attached to the swing arm at the connector. Testing for continuity is all you need if the connector is good. Probably need to replace both hubs, they are pretty cheap and 4 bolts. I changed one before going to work in good clothes.

Correction: there is a socket on the back of the hub, the wire comes from the car.

Oldblue

Welcome to the site, the rear hubs for ABS 2010 look like this, the connection is on the back

jigsb

Thank you both for your response. I guess I will have to take the wheel off again and look closer. Not sure how the connector was missed first time around.

Can you please share the part # and a good reasonable priced place to buy it from.

hellshotrod

just ohm them pull the plug on the pass side above the rear axle and see if they read the same if not u will know which side is bad ,,

donbrew

I get them from ebay vendors for (prices have exploded) around $30 each. Used to be about $15 ea. I would replace both.

jigsb

Thank you and sorry for the delay. Crazy hot here in CA.

I finally was able to remove BOTH the rear wheels and found the connector and measured the voltage with the Car Ignition On (engine shut). The ABS and traction lights stayed on and the voltage on both rear hub sensor showed 2.33v.

Does that mean, wiring is good and it is the Sensor problem (with the rear passenger wheel) ?

And if so, I saw the top 2 screws are accessible. But how to get access to the bottom two !? They seem to be covered by a bottom casing coming in from the axle.

Thanks again guys.

jigsb

Bummer, I measured the Voltage on the wiring harness / connector pins coming in from the Car ABS module. I re-read the above posts and watched some other videos and it seems you folks asked me to measure Resistance between the pins on the actual Sensor socket !? Correct and if so, what should be the reading be ideally in ohms in a good sensor ?! And do I also need to measure voltage on the sensor pins while spinning the hub !?

Thanks again.

Oldblue

Those lower nuts, I use a 3/8 drive 18” extension with a 14 mm deep socket and my 16” 3/8 drive breaker bar and penetrating oil

donbrew

Any resistance indicates continuity. None indicates broken wire.
Unless you use a scope spinning the wheel doesn't tell much. It produces an AC current, the frequency is what matters.

The wheel speed sensor is a Hall effect coil of wire. If it is going to break that is the place.