2011 hhr problem..
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: 03-18-2018
Posts: 148
From: USA
2011 hhr problem..
I replaced both camshaft position sensors last night as check engine light came on and car had a slow acceleration. But started fine, idled fine no missing, no stalling. Just replaced placed the plugs, air filter and a worn out woolly tube as well and sensors. Drove it around the block and no check engine light. Power improved about 70% but acceleration still not as strong still a slight hogging sound. This morning started it up and check engine light back on. Scanner is only saying P0017 could this time. Before it was codes 16-17. Now only showing code 17 Which is bank 1 camshaft sensor. See nothing wrong with harnesses. Car sounds fine and as quite as a four cylinder can. So no timing chain slap, clunking. I read all the other posts but mine is different so that’s why I posted my own questions. Does the car need to go for a nice long ride on the highway? Off topic but would Seafoam in the engine help also as 122,000 miles and never had any problems!
Administrator
Joined: 10-13-2011
Posts: 39,986
From: Welland,Ont Canada
Welcome to the site, as per
Causes may include: Timing chain stretched, or timing belt skipped a tooth due to wear Misalignment of timing belt/chain Tone ring on crankshaft slipped/broken Tone ring on camshaft slipped/broken Bad crank sensor Bad cam sensor Damaged wiring to crank/cam sensor Timing belt/chain tensioner damaged An improperly torqued crankshaft balancer A mis-built or mis-timed engine A loose or missing crankshaft balancer bolt The CMP actuator solenoid stuck open The CMP actuator stuck in a position other than 0 degrees
Read more at: https://www.obd-codes.com/p0017
Copyright OBD-Codes.com
Found here
https://www.obd-codes.com/p0017
Timing chain stretched, guides worn , common after 125,000 mile mark.
Causes may include: Timing chain stretched, or timing belt skipped a tooth due to wear Misalignment of timing belt/chain Tone ring on crankshaft slipped/broken Tone ring on camshaft slipped/broken Bad crank sensor Bad cam sensor Damaged wiring to crank/cam sensor Timing belt/chain tensioner damaged An improperly torqued crankshaft balancer A mis-built or mis-timed engine A loose or missing crankshaft balancer bolt The CMP actuator solenoid stuck open The CMP actuator stuck in a position other than 0 degrees
Read more at: https://www.obd-codes.com/p0017
Copyright OBD-Codes.com
Found here
https://www.obd-codes.com/p0017
Timing chain stretched, guides worn , common after 125,000 mile mark.
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: 03-18-2018
Posts: 148
From: USA
Thank you. Yes I researched those sites and others before. Just hard to believe it’s a timing chain or timing chain hardware when the car runs normal unless you get on it then not as aggressive take off. Plus why would changing these two sensors make the cars acceleration improve a lot if still timing chain issues... I have read that if the other sensors you mentioned were bad or acting up it would throw codes P0010-11. I have replaced crank sensor on a 2.2L and it didn’t want to start and finally quit, rough idle. So can’t see crank sensor either ☹️. I Really pray it’s not the timing chain or hardware.. is it possible for it to last longer then the 125,000 mark?
Administrator
Joined: 10-13-2011
Posts: 39,986
From: Welland,Ont Canada
9 times out of 10, it’s the chains stretched, this sets into motion the destruction of the front timing chain guide.
It’s alot cheaper to replace the chain and guides now, then after the chain snaps and takes out the valves and pistons, I’ve even seen a broken connecting rod.
Ours is not to reason why, just advise you from our experience .
Could it last longer, it might, but do you feel lucky?
I’m always happy to open up an Ecotec and see the chain slack but the front guide hasn’t disintegrated yet, makes the job much better, not having to explain why it just jumped to a $3,500.00 engine replacement
I recommend Cloyes 9-4201SX and 9-4202S kits.
It’s alot cheaper to replace the chain and guides now, then after the chain snaps and takes out the valves and pistons, I’ve even seen a broken connecting rod.
Ours is not to reason why, just advise you from our experience .
Could it last longer, it might, but do you feel lucky?
I’m always happy to open up an Ecotec and see the chain slack but the front guide hasn’t disintegrated yet, makes the job much better, not having to explain why it just jumped to a $3,500.00 engine replacement
I recommend Cloyes 9-4201SX and 9-4202S kits.
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: 03-18-2018
Posts: 148
From: USA
Anyhow I read that and a lot of other stuff thank you! But the fact that both camshaft sensors made a big improvement and have no engine noise, from timing chain. Plus no P0010-11 codes means solenoids are good. Can’t see it being crank sensor as replaced one before on another quad four and it didn’t want to start or stay running. Once sensor replaced all was good an was on a 1995 Grand am. Maybe a long drive would help the engine go through a cycle. Only road time it gets is around town very short distances. Other articles people said light came on right after leaving shops then went off weeks later.
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: 03-18-2018
Posts: 148
From: USA
Okay. I could do the work but time is the issue plus never messed with timing on engines. Yes saw that kit. If I take it to a shop how would they know it was the timing chain without guessing? They would have to tear into the engine correct?
Moderator
Joined: 01-23-2009
Posts: 26,484
From: Fredericksburg,VA
It is probably NOT the crankshaft sensor, if it is it is a 1 bolt job + a computer to calibrate it.
Why do people always want to blame passive Hall effect devices? A coil of wire does not wear out.
You might try a new timing chain tensioner, then you would see if the chain has stretched farther than it can adjust for. Or new VVT valves (solenoids).
Why do people always want to blame passive Hall effect devices? A coil of wire does not wear out.
You might try a new timing chain tensioner, then you would see if the chain has stretched farther than it can adjust for. Or new VVT valves (solenoids).
Moderator
Joined: 01-23-2009
Posts: 26,484
From: Fredericksburg,VA
There is a stick in the How-To section. https://www.chevyhhr.net/forums/how-...-rattle-46159/