The debate is confused because you are speaking of 2 different things......CHARGING voltage and OPERATING voltage. Each has their own value.

 

x2 x2

 

Im unable to show a photo, the positive on the red covered post the negative on the ground on the strut tower on the drivers side, with the engine not running you will read battery voltage, with the engine running the out put from the alternater. should be 14 plus voltage.

 

I have learned a lot today. I love this Forum.

Boydie Back in the Saddle

 

This is true Jay. But to get a true battery voltage, disconnect the negative cable. I think HHR'S have SMALL parasitic drains. My experience with my car yielded about about .12 difference. It's PROBABLY more on some power hungry GM cars.

 

Just want to throw this picture in amongst all the confusion.

My 1998 Dodge truck at idle.Connected to the battery. Note it's on volts.

Attachment 14675

 

The original poster of the volts/amps topic, lesserdawn is quite correct. His/Her alternator is sending 13 amps back to the battery. Volts can not and do not charge a battery, amps do. Take that to the bank.

Boydie Back in the Saddle

Quote:

Originally Posted by lesserdawn

I am having power issues with my 2006 HHR. My car kept dying so I replaced the battery but it kept dying. Now I have replaced the alternator twice. The alternator is sending 13 amps back to the battery and the battery is charging. But my battery keeps going dead. Any Ideas?

 

One night I put my car in the garage and the light on the mirror stayed on all night, in the morning would not start the voltage under the hood was 8.14 volts, had to jump and let it run for a few minutes and it was chargeing, so now I make sure all lights are out this is the only time this has happened. YIPPEE

 

Well back 3 pages to the OP.... I had the same problem, but the car ultimately died before I ran it down. I believe that my problem was the plug that goes into the alternator was either crudded up or one of the wires was in bad condition. The plug sits right where you can easily drip thing like DexCool and windshield fluid on it, some of those things tend to muck up electrical things.


My Volt meter measures over 13 VOLT coming from the alternator and a hair over 12 VOLTS from the battery. Amperage is an indicator of FLOW, not a "measurement" per se, it tells you in what direction and at what rate a current is flowing. In this case an "idiot light" is a better choice than a gauge, you only really need to know which direction and if it's steady, light on: wrong direction, light flickering: bad electronic connection somewhere.

My 2 cents to an off topic conversation.

 

getting 13.6 volts at the positive terminal on the alternator, and 13+ at the battery, but if I disconnect the battery the car dies, sure sign of an alternator problem RIGHT? so if the alternator is putting out power, and its getting too the battery, then why not to the power systems running the car?