Analog Fuel gauge not correct, all others working
Thread Starter
Joined: 10-11-2014
Posts: 7
From: MS
Did this suddenly come up?
All of the information displayed on the I/P comes on the low speed GMLAN serial data line, 1 wire. So it must be the fuel gauge is broken, if all of the other indicator lights work. turn signal, hi beam, air bag, seat belt, batt, brake, ABS, traction, oil pressure and analog coolant temp.
The fuel pump/level sensor send data top the ECM the ECM sends data to the BCM that does calculation and sends data to the I/P.
All of the information displayed on the I/P comes on the low speed GMLAN serial data line, 1 wire. So it must be the fuel gauge is broken, if all of the other indicator lights work. turn signal, hi beam, air bag, seat belt, batt, brake, ABS, traction, oil pressure and analog coolant temp.
The fuel pump/level sensor send data top the ECM the ECM sends data to the BCM that does calculation and sends data to the I/P.
It really hasn't been driven much at all until I took possession, so i'm working through the bugs as I find them.
I still need to check the connection at the fuel tank (pictured above from Oldblue) before I can say it's the cluster istself.
But, as it has been said, it would be odd for only 1 gauge to malfunction...not impossible, just odd.
Senior Member
Joined: 03-29-2022
Posts: 1,241
From: Davison MI
I went out today and loosened all 4 completely out and retightened them (Middle, top, bottom L, bottom r) a little at a time to try and equally distribute the load. I heard a little "crack" as some of the tension popped and resetteled.
I got them pretty tight, but I'm afraid to tighten them down too much...they're aluminum, right? I definitely don't want to strip them. Is there a torque spec for those bolts?
I got them pretty tight, but I'm afraid to tighten them down too much...they're aluminum, right? I definitely don't want to strip them. Is there a torque spec for those bolts?
Moderator
Joined: 01-23-2009
Posts: 26,543
From: Fredericksburg,VA
Was it working when you got it?
Since A; the miles to go and MPG work. The BCM needs to know the state of fill from the sender.
And B; all other gauges work. All of the data travels on the same wire from the BCM.
It has to be the instrument panel.
You have to use a computer to program a new I/P to the BCM. The odometer is stored in the BCM and will not display unless the part numbers match.
Since A; the miles to go and MPG work. The BCM needs to know the state of fill from the sender.
And B; all other gauges work. All of the data travels on the same wire from the BCM.
It has to be the instrument panel.
You have to use a computer to program a new I/P to the BCM. The odometer is stored in the BCM and will not display unless the part numbers match.
Thread Starter
Joined: 10-11-2014
Posts: 7
From: MS
Was it working when you got it?
Since A; the miles to go and MPG work. The BCM needs to know the state of fill from the sender.
And B; all other gauges work. All of the data travels on the same wire from the BCM.
It has to be the instrument panel.
You have to use a computer to program a new I/P to the BCM. The odometer is stored in the BCM and will not display unless the part numbers match.
Since A; the miles to go and MPG work. The BCM needs to know the state of fill from the sender.
And B; all other gauges work. All of the data travels on the same wire from the BCM.
It has to be the instrument panel.
You have to use a computer to program a new I/P to the BCM. The odometer is stored in the BCM and will not display unless the part numbers match.
In the beginning (1st week), it wasn't working at all. Needle was all the way at the top of gauge (beyond full).
Lately, it's bounced back and forth between what appears to be an accurate reading and just above half full.
I filled up on Friday, so I know I have a full tank...when I started the car this morning, it showed just above half full. When I went to lunch it went to full tank (accurate).
At the end of the day, as long as the digital readouts are GTG, I'm not too worried about fixing the analog gauge. I'll just reset the trip and fill it up at around 300 miles. I appreciate your input and help with the troubleshooting!
Moderator
Joined: 01-23-2009
Posts: 26,543
From: Fredericksburg,VA
[QUOTEI got them pretty tight, but I'm afraid to tighten them down too much...they're aluminum, right? I definitely don't want to strip them. Is there a torque spec for those bolts?][/QUOTE]
Should be at least one loud crack. No spec beyond tighter than "I'm afraid they will strip". The point is that each fuse has 2 connectors under it that have to engage into clips in the wiring harness.
I would start with the bolt closest to the fuse or relay associated with the problem module.
Should be at least one loud crack. No spec beyond tighter than "I'm afraid they will strip". The point is that each fuse has 2 connectors under it that have to engage into clips in the wiring harness.
I would start with the bolt closest to the fuse or relay associated with the problem module.
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