Automatic Transmission Delay
02-13-2022, 09:27 AM
#1
Automatic Transmission Delay
Hey, hope everybodys good.
My hhr, well it had a leaky transmission pan. It leaked around the edges where the pan meets the body. We took it out, and got liquid rubber gasket (the kind that hardens and seals) and we put it back in and it hasn't been leaking.
The thing is, ever since that repair, for some reason the gear shifting has been, different. Note: The fluid levels are correct, we had it checked.
After a cold night, once we warm it up and take it out, within about 2 kms of driving, the gear doesn't engage when the car slows down on the road (The engine just revvs and if you give it like 15 secs it clicks in) Other times it happens on the road, when it just starts Revving and moves very slowly. Sometimes it stays that way and fixes itself after a complete stop. This only happens at slow speeds (signals, gates etc.). It has no problems at high speeds.
But all this just happens during the first/second ride. Later in the day, we have no problem at all.
The cars also been jerking very often when we slow down fast. You can feel it ike slightly lunging forward for a split second.
One more thing, we changed all the plugs as the old ones were quite worn down. The car has 155000 miles on it. Any ideas what the problem might be? Thanks in advance.
My hhr, well it had a leaky transmission pan. It leaked around the edges where the pan meets the body. We took it out, and got liquid rubber gasket (the kind that hardens and seals) and we put it back in and it hasn't been leaking.
The thing is, ever since that repair, for some reason the gear shifting has been, different. Note: The fluid levels are correct, we had it checked.
After a cold night, once we warm it up and take it out, within about 2 kms of driving, the gear doesn't engage when the car slows down on the road (The engine just revvs and if you give it like 15 secs it clicks in) Other times it happens on the road, when it just starts Revving and moves very slowly. Sometimes it stays that way and fixes itself after a complete stop. This only happens at slow speeds (signals, gates etc.). It has no problems at high speeds.
But all this just happens during the first/second ride. Later in the day, we have no problem at all.
The cars also been jerking very often when we slow down fast. You can feel it ike slightly lunging forward for a split second.
One more thing, we changed all the plugs as the old ones were quite worn down. The car has 155000 miles on it. Any ideas what the problem might be? Thanks in advance.
02-13-2022, 10:25 AM
#2
Administrator
Join Date: 10-13-2011
Location: Welland,Ont Canada
Posts: 36,676
Possibly the goop you used instead of the gasket clogged up a shift solenoid?
perhaps you used a different transmission fluid? Dexron VI full synthetic automatic transmission fluid is recommended with a new filter it will take 7 litres.
perhaps you used a different transmission fluid? Dexron VI full synthetic automatic transmission fluid is recommended with a new filter it will take 7 litres.
02-17-2022, 07:28 AM
#4
We checked it again yesterday, and it was a bit low. There was a tiny drip. We added a bit more, and it's the flow is more steady.
I usually check it after driving the car around for a while. The car stays on during the checking.
As of today, it's not only in the mornings, its been happening in the afternoons too. It's more pronounced in inclines (the front end of the car is higher than the rear) , and only happens during the stationary-1st gear phase. It takes like 3 seconds before the car "jerks" and clicks into gear.
Other times, it happens during the time we come to a standstill and want to get going again.
I usually check it after driving the car around for a while. The car stays on during the checking.
As of today, it's not only in the mornings, its been happening in the afternoons too. It's more pronounced in inclines (the front end of the car is higher than the rear) , and only happens during the stationary-1st gear phase. It takes like 3 seconds before the car "jerks" and clicks into gear.
Other times, it happens during the time we come to a standstill and want to get going again.
02-17-2022, 01:02 PM
#7
I drive the car around,ake sure it's hot and has at least shifted through the gears. I park in an oil change bay (with the car on) and unscrew the little screw underneath and then I check the flow of the liquid coming out.
02-19-2022, 01:03 PM
#8
Guys I had to take the pan out, check for any contaminants (debris, metal pieces etc.) and there was nothing. I changed the filter too. I still have that problem. Its happening quite frequently now. Is there a wah I can check if the shift solenoids/tcc Solenoid is bad from the outside without going too further in?
02-19-2022, 01:13 PM
#9
Administrator
Join Date: 10-13-2011
Location: Welland,Ont Canada
Posts: 36,676
If you have a scanner that reads transmission codes, can test solenoids.
https://www.chevyhhr.net/forums/driv...olenoid-61313/
https://www.chevyhhr.net/forums/driv...olenoid-61313/
02-19-2022, 01:54 PM
#10
Senior Member
Join Date: 02-01-2006
Location: lockport,ny
Posts: 1,378
You can test the solenoids electrically for the right coil resistance externally.
Using a wiring diagram, find the correct solenoid pins on the transmission electrical connector or at the transmission controller.
If I remember correctly, I think the correct resistance range was 19-31 ohms.
My failed solenoid showed around 4 ohms (shorted).
Solenoid coils either short or open when they fail.
However, you can't test externally for a mechanically sticking solenoid.
The symptoms you describe sound like fluid flow or mechanical problems rather than electrical.
A code reader that reads transmission codes might show a hidden code (one that doesn't set the MIL light).
Also, a good transmission shop has readers that can tell them internal transmission status for using internal data. I have a minivan that started having jerky shifts. I went to a good local transmission shop and they read the transmission data. The transmission was worn enough that the built-in "wear compensation" was at its limit and it couldn't compensate smoothly any more. Over time, the compensation was upping the internal pressure as the trans wore. Finally, it wore enough that the pressure was upped to max, causing jerky shifts. They could tell this by the data from the controller.
I have heard of cases where changing a fluid dislodges some debris which then clogs something. This may have happened.
When you say that inclines make the problem worse, that implies a fluid starvation problem.
Steve
Using a wiring diagram, find the correct solenoid pins on the transmission electrical connector or at the transmission controller.
If I remember correctly, I think the correct resistance range was 19-31 ohms.
My failed solenoid showed around 4 ohms (shorted).
Solenoid coils either short or open when they fail.
However, you can't test externally for a mechanically sticking solenoid.
The symptoms you describe sound like fluid flow or mechanical problems rather than electrical.
A code reader that reads transmission codes might show a hidden code (one that doesn't set the MIL light).
Also, a good transmission shop has readers that can tell them internal transmission status for using internal data. I have a minivan that started having jerky shifts. I went to a good local transmission shop and they read the transmission data. The transmission was worn enough that the built-in "wear compensation" was at its limit and it couldn't compensate smoothly any more. Over time, the compensation was upping the internal pressure as the trans wore. Finally, it wore enough that the pressure was upped to max, causing jerky shifts. They could tell this by the data from the controller.
I have heard of cases where changing a fluid dislodges some debris which then clogs something. This may have happened.
When you say that inclines make the problem worse, that implies a fluid starvation problem.
Steve