When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Problems/Service/RepairsIf you have a problem with your HHR, want a tip on repairing or performing a particular service to you HHR here is the place to post!
Why are you testing continuity? You should be looking for 12VDC on both sides of the fuse, then move onto each connection.
Then check for continuity to Ground on the other side of the fan, while it is switched on.
Why not test the relay?
Why not test the fan?
Did you read post #4? "There is a splice in the Hot wire that somebody found was bad"
COMPUTERS DON'T JUST BREAK! Highly unlikely the problem!
I see relay # 30 for HVAC in that diagram, but not the BCM
See the control switch for the rear defroster, heated seats and so on which are in the HVAC control module, ergo that is were the problem could be hiding.
I see relay # 30 for HVAC in that diagram, but not the BCM
See the control switch for the rear defroster, heated seats and so on which are in the HVAC control module, ergo that is were the problem could be hiding.
Oldblue:
The #30 relay is on the BCM.
Thank you for your help, It’s fixed.
Let me bring you up to speed, I did electronic repair part time for almost two decades, to the component level. I did five years with a very good auto repair shop down here, I was reading Mitchell on demand wiring schematics and directing the techs on what, where to test and where to look. I have fixed 1000’s of wiring problems using Mitchell wiring schematics in those five years. That shop specialized in fixing wiring problems in part because of me.
As I told you the open was between the aft connecter on the #4 fuse and the b connecter on the fan motor leg. Once I found where the BCM was under that kick panel, it was a simple fix. I touched/moved the #30 relay and the problem was fixed, fan came on and has worked every time the car has been started 10-12 times in a row. I have put a very small amount of dielectric grease on the spades of the relay so this problem doesn’t return again.
So, you where just playing with us? You couldn't be bothered to read the printing on the wiring diagrams and schematics or the Owner Manual.
You electrical experts always want to replace computers. I guess you would have claimed that was the fix, since you would have replaced the relay in doing so.
With the fan not working I have probed the plug at the fan fore and aft the fan and aft #4 fuse at the blue marks.
I have a circuit aft the fuse this tells me that I have continuity and a complete circuit through the fuse to the battery and no circuit at the fan connector B, so my open is between the two blue dots(#4 fuse and the fan motor). When I probed the fan at connector A&B. I was factoring out the rest of the circuit, the resistor and the HVAC control panel. My open in the circuit is between my two probed test points at the b connector of the fan up through my test point c2/f6 aft the fuse. Do you understand what I am saying?
So you didn’t check the relay, wiggle it or test it?
Just tested for continuity fore and aft, between the blue dots.
But your blue dot diagram shows the BCM off to the right .
No mention of wiggling the relay or
Oldblue:
Please read post #3
I was saying that the open in the circuit that I made with my test probe was between the two blue dots. If you follow the black line between the two dots you will see the relay on the BCM. I also said that I don't know if the open in that circuit that I made with my test probe is in the relay contacts or if it is on the coil side of the relay. There was a outside chance that the open could have been in one of the connectors in the wiring. I did not know where the BCM was hiding in the car.
So you didn’t check the relay, wiggle it or test it?
Just tested for continuity fore and aft, between the blue dots.
Oldblue:
Let me step back I seem to be confusing you on what I did. I use a power probe but you can do this with a standard test light. I used my power probe to apply a neg at the connector after the #4 fuse, I had a circuit, the light on the tester would come on.
Then I moved down to the B connector on the fan motor and I did not have a circuit, no light on the tester. This told me that I had a open in that circuit that I had made between connector B and the + battery, I knew from the first probe that I had power going through the fuse so I didn’t have a blown fuse. At that point I know the open was between the two blue dots. The only thing in between the two blue dots was the BCM, relay, some wires and some connector on the wires.
That is why when you said it was in the switches, I knew the switches were after the fan motor outside of the circuit between the two blue dots. Once I found the BCM I was going to probe the for connector of the relay socket. This would have told me that I had a circuit from that connector under the relay to the + battery. I didn’t have to do that, as soon as I grabbed the relay the fan started up. OOOOK! Moved the relay around in the socket and I still had blower fan, problem fixed.
Do you understand all this?
Last edited by rmc51; 12-07-2017 at 05:04 PM.
Reason: spelling
12-07-2017, 09:29 AM
