Brake/Front End Shake
#1
Brake/Front End Shake
My 08 HHR has an issue with a bad shakeing in the right front when I apply the brakes. It happens as you lay your foot on the brake, starts shaking as if the rotor is warped or something is loose in the front end, feels like its coming from the right front. Let me give you some history on what I have done so far. I started with the easiest and cheepest first. I changed the pads (old ones looked almost new) vehicle has 50k miles. Still shakes. Changed the right front rotor even though the old one looked OK. Still shakes. I am planning to change the right front caliper today. I have jacked it up and checked everything that moves for looseness. Anyone have this problem and know what fixed it?? Thanks
#2
Give the following thread a read through before changing the caliper out, you may want to change the rotor on the left side also. I had the brake juddering issue just starting last fall, a quick change to NAPA Premium rotors and pads cured it, 14,000 miles later and it hasn't returned.
https://www.chevyhhr.net/forums/show...t=brake+judder
https://www.chevyhhr.net/forums/show...t=brake+judder
Last edited by 843de; 05-07-2011 at 06:02 PM.
#5
I had good luck with NAPA premium rotors and safety-stop pads on another vehicle. However I am going to install Raybestos professional grade pads and Wagner rotors in the coming weeks on my HHR. I was going to purchase Raybestos pro grade rotors but they are not available. Time will tell if these are a good as the NAPA parts. I think all the rotors are made in China.
Oldschool - I never replace pads without either turning the rotors or installing new rotors. If a rotor is warped, new pads will not help.
Oldschool - I never replace pads without either turning the rotors or installing new rotors. If a rotor is warped, new pads will not help.
#6
I had to do the same thing. I went to rock auto and got some excellent raybestos parts for it. Replaced both front rotors and pads. Still nice and solid. Just have to replace the damn sway bar links up front to get rid of the clunk there.
#7
I would not think the caliper is the issue there.
First off did you just change one side? Also what makes you think it it the right front and not the left?
Might also check the tire and wheel for a bad belt, balance or bent wheel. Some bad belts will show up under braking sometimes as they will not be that bad till a load inder braking comes into play.
Check the hub bearing for play too. It should be 2 thou or less in play.
Rotors for the most do not warp but they can wear in a varied thickness due to bearing wear. It does take time and your new rotor should not be effected yet.
If you also do not seat in the pads they can create a spot where the pad material will stick on a hot rotor and make a place where it will grab and create the pulse shake you feel.
If unsure what it is take it to a shop and just get it fixed. There are many things that can cause this from a bad strut to bad tire. Best to get it fixed right if you don't know what it is.
First off did you just change one side? Also what makes you think it it the right front and not the left?
Might also check the tire and wheel for a bad belt, balance or bent wheel. Some bad belts will show up under braking sometimes as they will not be that bad till a load inder braking comes into play.
Check the hub bearing for play too. It should be 2 thou or less in play.
Rotors for the most do not warp but they can wear in a varied thickness due to bearing wear. It does take time and your new rotor should not be effected yet.
If you also do not seat in the pads they can create a spot where the pad material will stick on a hot rotor and make a place where it will grab and create the pulse shake you feel.
If unsure what it is take it to a shop and just get it fixed. There are many things that can cause this from a bad strut to bad tire. Best to get it fixed right if you don't know what it is.
#8
I've had this same problem. It's been to three different dealers, Avon Indiana at about 16k miles, Las Vegas NV at 35K miles, and San Jose CA at 50k miles. The first two said I'd warped the driver's side front rotor, which they turned, and the problem went away. the third said several things. First they claimed my rotors were now out of spec, due to being turned twice, and I'd need to replace them at great expense, the car having *just* fallen off warranty. Then they claimed there wasn't a problem at all. I asked the Service Manager to have the mechanic take the car out, get it to 70, and step on the brakes. Surprise surprise, the mechanic most certainly felt the problem. They then claimed to have taken the entire front end apart, measured everything, which was all in spec, put it back together, and returned the car, saying they could find nothing to fix/repair/replace, but still charging me $145 to diagnose the problem.
Yeah, the car still shudders under moderate to hard braking, and my wife is afraid to drive it or even ride in it. I think it might qualify for a Lemon Law case, since the dealer has seen it three times and been unable to resolve the issue.
Ideas?
Yeah, the car still shudders under moderate to hard braking, and my wife is afraid to drive it or even ride in it. I think it might qualify for a Lemon Law case, since the dealer has seen it three times and been unable to resolve the issue.
Ideas?
#10
If you fail to seat or bed the pads the issue will come back again and again turned or replace rotors or not.
It take time but the shudder will return evey time. The coating of pad material need to leave a good film surface on the rotor or it will leave spots where the friction is uneven and it will shake.
Note MFG's on new vehicles and dealers after putting on pads rarely seat the pads in. If you do not do it you will run the good risk of this issue.
Also check the bearing hubs for run out. If they wobble even a little the rotors will wear uneven. They will not warp but they will wear in uneven thickness that will return. Not all dealers will look or check for this either.
This brake condition is a industry wide issue as it shows up on most cars from all MFG. Most web sites all have the same complaint and have for years.
It take time but the shudder will return evey time. The coating of pad material need to leave a good film surface on the rotor or it will leave spots where the friction is uneven and it will shake.
Note MFG's on new vehicles and dealers after putting on pads rarely seat the pads in. If you do not do it you will run the good risk of this issue.
Also check the bearing hubs for run out. If they wobble even a little the rotors will wear uneven. They will not warp but they will wear in uneven thickness that will return. Not all dealers will look or check for this either.
This brake condition is a industry wide issue as it shows up on most cars from all MFG. Most web sites all have the same complaint and have for years.