Brake Nightmare
#32
If I remember correctly the bit I drew the arrow to is supposed to be on the other side of the star and turned around so it does not push the the lever away from the star but does apply some pressure to lock the star. Maybe the picture is fooling my eyes.
#34
So, I took it to Les Schwab to have them look at the rear brakes to confirm they were on correctly. They said they were.
However, they think that when they replaced the master cylinder, they didn't adjust the push rod correctly and it is keeping pressure on the system.
The tech said he popped one of the rear bleeder valves and fluid came shooting out so there was definitely pressure still on the system.
However, they think that when they replaced the master cylinder, they didn't adjust the push rod correctly and it is keeping pressure on the system.
The tech said he popped one of the rear bleeder valves and fluid came shooting out so there was definitely pressure still on the system.
#38
Not that I know of. But the MC and the proportioning valve both need to be bench bled.
Only thing left is the booster. And it is in the diagnostic tree for the condition.
Maybe the vacuum check valve got itself backwards?
Only thing left is the booster. And it is in the diagnostic tree for the condition.
Maybe the vacuum check valve got itself backwards?
#39
OK, here's an update and resolution to this little headache of mine.
Apparently, there are two master cylinder kits. One for factory 15 inch wheels and one for factory 16 inch wheels. Well, my daughter's car has after market 16 inch wheels, but came with factory 15 inch wheels. This apparently is where the confusion came in when they ordered the master cylinder. Apparently, the push rod on the 16 inch wheel version is about 3/4 of an inch longer than the 15 inch version. This was causing the brakes to be applied before the driver even pushed on the pedal. After ordering and replacing the correct master cylinder, the issue is no longer happening.
I hope this thread saves at least one other person the headache and money I went through!!!!
Apparently, there are two master cylinder kits. One for factory 15 inch wheels and one for factory 16 inch wheels. Well, my daughter's car has after market 16 inch wheels, but came with factory 15 inch wheels. This apparently is where the confusion came in when they ordered the master cylinder. Apparently, the push rod on the 16 inch wheel version is about 3/4 of an inch longer than the 15 inch version. This was causing the brakes to be applied before the driver even pushed on the pedal. After ordering and replacing the correct master cylinder, the issue is no longer happening.
I hope this thread saves at least one other person the headache and money I went through!!!!
#40
I don't think wheel size is the determining factor. It's whether or not the vehicle is equipped with Electronic Stability Control (Active Brake Control, Vehicle Stability Control). Perhaps ESC is not available with 15 inch wheels. I cannot recall anyone here mentioning that 15 inch wheels were available on HHRs.