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Problems/Service/RepairsIf you have a problem with your HHR, want a tip on repairing or performing a particular service to you HHR here is the place to post!
I need to remove the camshafts in order to replace the valve guide seals. I've got the special tool attached to the VVT sprockets to hold them and the timing chain in place. When I remove the camshaft caps, I still cannot remove the camshafts, as they seem to be stuck to the sprockets.
I may remove the tensioner to see if that helps, but I'd rather not if I don't need to.
The intake camshaft, it looks like I may have to do something with the HPFP, to release tension from that lobe? The manual doesn't mention this at all, so maybe it's not necessary?
No, the whole idea is to not mess up the timing. The VVT sprockets, and chain, are held by the tool, so you can remove the camshafts without disturbing the timing.
Removing the tensioner seems to have allowed the sprockets to come loose from the shafts, but the sprockets can't come off the shafts enough to remove the shafts from the engine. It seems that the locking tabs on the special tool are bottoming out too soon in the sprockets. I'm going to grind a bit off the tabs tomorrow, that should do it.
I need to remember to take some pics.
The intake shaft may come out without disturbing the HPFP. Not sure, but I'm going to try.
Some of the instruction in the Haynes manual just doesn't seem right. They tell you to go to #1 TDC, then turn counter-clockwise! Bad advice! They must have had a different special tool in mind. This tool is #1 TDC, then clockwise a bit. https://www.ebay.com/itm/253647353897
If it were me, I'd remove everything as if you were replacing the timing chain and guides. You already know the results if it's not right. Youc ould end up spending more time trying to get around it than just doing it. My opinion...
I don't know how you could pull the shaft out of the sprocket, it goes in at least 1/2 inch, maybe more.
Those holders are for replacing the chain. The product description is kind of wrong. As long as you don't care about the chains jumping teeth you can turn the crank CC.
Just as easy to hold the shaft with a 3/4 inch wrench to remove the bolt. When reinstalling the sprocket you have to be sure the pin is aligned.
I don't know how you could pull the shaft out of the sprocket, it goes in at least 1/2 inch, maybe more.
Those holders are for replacing the chain. The product description is kind of wrong. As long as you don't care about the chains jumping teeth you can turn the crank CC.
Just as easy to hold the shaft with a 3/4 inch wrench to remove the bolt. When reinstalling the sprocket you have to be sure the pin is aligned.
Got the camshafts out. Whew, this job is proving to be much more difficult than I expected .
The shafts are inserted no more than 7/16", as shown.
If this were for removing the chain, it would be set up for TDC.
The tabs were 1/2", I ground them down to 5/16", which allowed them to mostly bottom out in the sprockets. The holes in the sprockets are only about 1/4" deep, maybe a little less.
I ziptied each sprocket to the tool.
Not very visible here, but the sprocket just clears the shaft.
My anal side says to never use the end of a tape measure if trying to get an accurate measurement. Especially if the metal "hook" on the end of tape has loosened over time. Sorry, just had to point that out cuz I bet the measurement is actually closer to 1/2 an inch.
Anyhow. Great progress RJ. You are venturing where few have gone before. Thanks for the write-up and pics.
FMG - that tape measure has a sliding hook on it that compensates for inside and outside measurements, depending on the placement of the hook. They are pretty accurate.
If it were me, I'd remove everything as if you were replacing the timing chain and guides. You already know the results if it's not right. Youc ould end up spending more time trying to get around it than just doing it. My opinion...
You called it, Dennis. Somehow during disassembly, the intake sprocket came loose from the tool, and jumped 4 teeth! So I ordered a new crank pulley bolt, and retimed the engine.
I finally had the opportunity to try Prod's technique for the drive belt tensioner, what a breeze! I really don't know why anybody would want to remove the engine mount, when this way is so easy! I did have to loosen the 3 bolts on the engine mount, in order to lower the engine enough to get that long water pump bolt out. Some of the timing cover bolts are hard to get to! 1 that I couldn't get a torque wrench on.
Car is back together now, preliminary results are good! No puffs of smoke so far!
08-17-2018, 01:30 PM
My anal side says to never use the end of a tape measure if trying to get an accurate measurement. Especially if the metal "hook" on the end of tape has loosened over time. Sorry, just had to point that out cuz I bet the measurement is actually closer to 1/2 an inch.