orrrrrrrrrrrr.... use the SEARCH feature (hint - hint) at the top of the page to get more detailed info - https://www.chevyhhr.net/forums/maintenance-upkeep-50/replacing-serpentine-belt-31446/

 

sorry but, how do you think I found this topic???
FYI, I am still waiting to be able to afford an alternator. I hope that fixes it. When I replaced the battery, it started right up, but in ~10 minutes it was saying 'battery saver mode' and check charging system, then it died and the lights went out again. No juice now. Also, there was an electrical smell and it seemed to be a little smokey around the car, It was a little windy so that cleared quickly, but it got me wondering.

Also, I have a line on a use alt with 6 mos warranty for ~35-50. Since a new one is $145 and I don't HAVE $145, I thought it might be good to try it. What do you guys think?

 

Whopper has a wealth of Information -and I respect that, but I do believe he wrote the book on Forum SEARCH as well.....LOL Sorry Whopper just making fun because Everytime I read the forums, you are ALWAYS there reminding EVERYONE where the search is.....Thank you for The Support!

 

That hole behind the wheel is for REMOVING the tensionER (after you lift the engine,another topic).

To release the tension you need a "special" tool; either bought (the "universal" one will not work off the shelf), fabricated or modified. The problem is that A) the space is not sufficient to get a 3/8" drive into the hole B) the angle of the "universal" tool is off by 45 degrees, and the handle is too long to fit into the engine compartment top or bottom approach.

I would go for a used Alternator, If I proved that is definitaly the problem. Or, at least try Ebay. Electrical smell could be something else entirely (like a short somewhere), but causing the battery & alternator to malfunction.

 

Well I get grumpy from time to time :-) - I just can't believe how many people don't bother to use the search facility that built into almost every forum. Not sure if it is laziness or just inexperience.

 

Sometimes it's that they are all different, and they treat search terms in different ways. This forums search tool is very odd, I have searched for known things before and got nothing, but there it is on the page I was looking at.

Point is: sometimes it is the tools fault (take that either way).

 

I agree with don on this. Sometimes the search function is just vague on the results.

 

Ok Back to Subject at hand - Buying a USED alternator is a gamble for sure - But If have an Opportunity to have it tested - Prior to Purchase -and it passes - Go for it! Have checked any on-line pricing? Seems you can save a lot sometimes simply by purchasing on-line. As an Example - I had a Jeep Liberty - Auto Zone had the Upper control arms with Ball Joint for $195 Each - I found them on-line BOTH Sides for $123 - That was a HUGE Savings, and they were even the SAME Brand! NEW! Good luck with your HHR Issue, i'm sure it will be running again in no time.

 

Thanks guys for the support. I bought a used alt from AAA auto parts with a 6 mos warranty on eBay for $35 free shipping. And it worked!!! But the standard tool didn't. Look for Tool $ j44811 instead.

Start rant!!!
I rented/borrowed the 'long' tool and sure enough it did NOT work. I called the local Chevy service and they referred me to a tool # J44811 and looking that up online. It's about $90. NO ONE carries it locally. I talked to Autozone, O'Reilly's, Napa, and Advance Auto Parts. But I am not the patient type so I went to Lowes and found a ratcheting combo wrench and adapter for this special ratchet with interchangeable heads. I used the 1/2 hex to 3/8 drive but it would not quite fit so I blocked the engine away from the firewall an extra 1/8" and got it to fit. the worked fairly well for removing the belt, but still took a while. I then proceeded to cuss out the car as every bit of effort to remove the old alternator was met and fraught with resistance. So I put the new one in then I went to put the new belt on. After fighting with it for an hour, I happened to lock the wrench/adapter/vise grip against the fly wheel and got up above the car [I was working under] and the belt was fighting me then it just slipped into place. I was so shocked, I couldn't believe it. But I was sooo cold and it was sooo dark [did I mention my fight with the flashlight? no? well that's another story. Anyway, I waited til the next day to put it back together but it not only started right up, I checked and with the engine running I was getting 14.?? volts so I knew it was working. Sure it was H3[[ but there's nothing better than the satisfaction of a successful job.

End Rant.

One more thing. The comments about searching. IF that person had checked, they would see that I was on that page since I posted there too. Problem seems to be everyone is using the manual or old memories/memories of other vehicles to tell us how to 'solve' the problem. A breaker bar WILL NOT fit between the wheel well and the engine. Noone seems to know what that 'special tool' is either. The tool that's best is probably the aforementioned J44811 but while what I did though it was hard, it did eventually work.

 

The "J" tool is probably available from Kent-Moore....if it's a true "J" number.