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Clunk noise in Steering

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Old Jul 19, 2010 | 09:43 AM
  #1  
Bahta's Avatar
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From: Erie, PA
Question Clunk noise in Steering

I have a front end noise driving me crazy, and wonder if anyone has experienced this ? I have a 2007 LT, 2.2 automatic. I've had it to the dealer twice, and each time they replaced one of the sway bar linkages. First the right side link, now the left side link, but the barely audible clunk / bunk, noise is still there when turning the steering wheel back and forth, while stopped in drive or while in Park. I can feel it telescoping up the steering column, as I turn the wheel back and forth a 1/2 turn each way, and while driving away from a stop while turning in either direction. ANY suggestions from anyone ??? The dealer mechanics are missing it. One mechanic, while driving it with me, suggested it might be the "I" drive ?
Thanks
Old Jul 19, 2010 | 10:18 AM
  #2  
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https://www.chevyhhr.net/forums/show...ng+clunk+noise
https://www.chevyhhr.net/forums/show...ng+clunk+noise
https://www.chevyhhr.net/forums/show...ng+clunk+noise
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https://www.chevyhhr.net/forums/show...ng+clunk+noise

First off...welcome to the site! Here are a few threads on the matter. It is a very common problem, but most have it narrowed down to a few specific fixes.
Old Jul 19, 2010 | 11:13 AM
  #3  
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From: Frankenmuth/Flint, MI
I've had sway bar links replaced, both struts, and the steering column. Each time it would get fixed for a few months, then come back. Now that I'm out of warranty, I'm hoping it's fixed!

Welcome to the site!!!
Old Jul 20, 2010 | 06:17 AM
  #4  
Bahta's Avatar
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From: Erie, PA
Clunk/Thunk

Thanks for the links directing me to what I now see as a very, very common problem, hahaha, SIGH.
Today it's the front rotors and pads I'll be replacing, as they are shot at 24,000 miles. While checking out the rotors, I see they are not going to just slide right off without some help from mister rosebud torch because of all the rust around where they go around the hubs. on the inside, axle side, of the rotors. Damned salted roads here in the great white north ! I also saw that the inner pads (puck side)are worn triple what the outers are, and came across a link about the splash shields and GM bulletin # 08-05-23-003. I wonder if the dealer would install the splash shields under warranty ? We have the warranty on this up until 55 k miles and it would be nice if it was covered ? Guess I'll find out. The more I read here, the more stuff I see that is a common problem for HHR owners, which is a great heads up for me.
Old Jul 21, 2010 | 01:02 AM
  #5  
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Originally Posted by Bahta

Today it's the front rotors and pads I'll be replacing, as they are shot at 24,000 miles. While checking out the rotors, I see they are not going to just slide right off without some help from mister rosebud torch because of all the rust around where they go around the hubs. on the inside, axle side, of the rotors.
A Wirebrush would be much safer to use on the hub rust.. Heat can get to the bearings..
Old Jul 21, 2010 | 08:59 AM
  #6  
07wite2lt's Avatar
 
Joined: 07-13-2010
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From: massillon, ohio
I have the same problem with my 07-2lt. Only 15,000 miles. It is getting worse.
Old Jul 22, 2010 | 06:02 AM
  #7  
dantesab's Avatar
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Joined: 05-18-2010
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From: michigan
clunk

I have the same problem with my 07 . Just had struts replaced and the end links better for a short time then back again.I am about to drive the vehicle off a cliff
Old Jul 25, 2010 | 09:28 AM
  #8  
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From: Erie, PA
Torch needed to remove front rotors on 07 HHR

In an earlier post I mentioned probably having to use a rosebud torch to get my front rotors off due to rust, and thats exactly what was needed ! The rust wasn't bad around the "outside" center of the rotor, it was excessive around the "inside" of the rotor where it surrounds the hub, holding the 5 lug bolts. Yes, the bearings were my major concern here, but applying massive amounts of PB Blaster, chipping away the rust with a ***** punch, and banging away with a 4 pound sledge did absolutely nothing to loosen the rotors. This wa an extremely poorly designed set=up here with the rotors having a slight undercut that allowed a couple years, and 24,000 miles of rust to build up between the inside of the rotor, and the outside of the hub. Almost like it was designed to NEVER come off !
Immediately after breaking the rotors loose, I quenched the bearing housings with a spray of water to cool things back down. The torch was kept rotating around the outer hub area on the outer face of the rotor, as thats where it was frozen together with rust. The heat was not aimed at or near the bearings, but nevertheless, they surely soaked up transfer heat, just as they do from the rotors while driving.
I may have to try and post some pics to help others to better understand exactly how this looks, unless someone from the same road salty areas has run into this same problem.
Sad thing is that my local dealer would have done this job for $40 over the cost of parts, but I figured, Hey ! Rotors are easy, right ? LMAO !
The pads were a breeze, but worn 5 times more on the inner ones, due to a lack of dust shields coming standard on this car. Why ?
Old Jul 25, 2010 | 05:13 PM
  #9  
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From: Vernon BC
I bought my 06 LT used and it was lowered by the previous owner, I always though it had something to do with a bad suspension set up, from the sounds of it its a common problem wiht the car, good to know :)
Old Jul 26, 2010 | 01:02 AM
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From: SE USA
So we have to improve the situation:

Ok, prior to re-assembly I would wipe the hub & rust areas w/hi-temp grease (just very lightly) to prevent any futrure rusting or sticky situations..

& the caliper slides should be checked for smooth clean surface, if not file smooth & apply a very thin coat of suitable grease, to help the pads wear more evenly..

That's the issue, the caliper is not sliding to pull evenly on both sides of the rotor...



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