coolant or oil sludge in air intake?
#1
coolant or oil sludge in air intake?
Hello all, I noticed today while changing my 02 sensor, that there was what appeared to be coolant sludge, possibly oil I guess, but it was very sticky, located in the small tube that runs from the top of the valve cover to the air intake tube just before the throttle body. The inside of the air intake tube also had a lot of slude like crud in it, and the throttle body was caked up pretty good also.
EDIT: I see now that this is part of the PCV system? So it would almost have to be oil then right?
What would cause something like this? At first I was thinking something to do with the intake manifold gasket, but it is not on top of the engine unless Im mistaken.
I feel like this may be related to the slow loss in coolant I have also. If I fill the overflow bottle up, within a few weeks or a month, its empty again.
Car runs great, never runs hot.
What can I do as far as testing, and ruling things out? I know I probably need to do a compression test, but what else?
EDIT: I see now that this is part of the PCV system? So it would almost have to be oil then right?
What would cause something like this? At first I was thinking something to do with the intake manifold gasket, but it is not on top of the engine unless Im mistaken.
I feel like this may be related to the slow loss in coolant I have also. If I fill the overflow bottle up, within a few weeks or a month, its empty again.
Car runs great, never runs hot.
What can I do as far as testing, and ruling things out? I know I probably need to do a compression test, but what else?
#2
Model year, how many miles, engine size would be helpful.
Never runs hot, are you looking at the gauge or the DIC? The gauge usually won't move until it's really overheating. As for testing, you should figure out where that coolant is going, pronto!
If your compression test turns out not so good, you could do a cylinder leak down test, to determine where your compression leakage is. I can't think of any way for coolant to get into the throttle body. Does it smoke? Is the engine oil level too high? Is there milky residue on the oil filler cap or dipstick? Any drips where you park?
Never runs hot, are you looking at the gauge or the DIC? The gauge usually won't move until it's really overheating. As for testing, you should figure out where that coolant is going, pronto!
If your compression test turns out not so good, you could do a cylinder leak down test, to determine where your compression leakage is. I can't think of any way for coolant to get into the throttle body. Does it smoke? Is the engine oil level too high? Is there milky residue on the oil filler cap or dipstick? Any drips where you park?
#3
It's a 2006 2.2 with close to 130k miles.
I look at the temperature on the DIC, normally runs between 180-195.
Engine does not smoke, oil level is normal. There was a little bit of crud on the oil cap, didnt look "fresh" by any means, but it did have some reddish residue on it. No drips that Im aware of, but I park on grass so its hard to tell, I have been underneath it several times and cant see anything coolant related. I believe it does leak a little oil somewhere, as I do have to add a quart or so between changes, and there is evidence of an oil leak way underneath the engine. But I dont worry about that.
Would a compression tester rented from an Autozone or Oreillys work on this car? Also can anyone recommend a good instructional on the compression/leakdown test? Ive never done one before.
I look at the temperature on the DIC, normally runs between 180-195.
Engine does not smoke, oil level is normal. There was a little bit of crud on the oil cap, didnt look "fresh" by any means, but it did have some reddish residue on it. No drips that Im aware of, but I park on grass so its hard to tell, I have been underneath it several times and cant see anything coolant related. I believe it does leak a little oil somewhere, as I do have to add a quart or so between changes, and there is evidence of an oil leak way underneath the engine. But I dont worry about that.
Would a compression tester rented from an Autozone or Oreillys work on this car? Also can anyone recommend a good instructional on the compression/leakdown test? Ive never done one before.
#4
It's oil and engine condensation, I replaced the hose with a 3/8 fuel hose, looped up so the oil will run back into the valve cover.
Clean your throttle body up too, as it will be covered in sludge!
Clean your throttle body up too, as it will be covered in sludge!
#5
It's a 2006 2.2 with close to 130k miles.
I look at the temperature on the DIC, normally runs between 180-195.
Engine does not smoke, oil level is normal. There was a little bit of crud on the oil cap, didnt look "fresh" by any means, but it did have some reddish residue on it. No drips that Im aware of, but I park on grass so its hard to tell, I have been underneath it several times and cant see anything coolant related. I believe it does leak a little oil somewhere, as I do have to add a quart or so between changes, and there is evidence of an oil leak way underneath the engine. But I dont worry about that.
Would a compression tester rented from an Autozone or Oreillys work on this car? Also can anyone recommend a good instructional on the compression/leakdown test? Ive never done one before.
I look at the temperature on the DIC, normally runs between 180-195.
Engine does not smoke, oil level is normal. There was a little bit of crud on the oil cap, didnt look "fresh" by any means, but it did have some reddish residue on it. No drips that Im aware of, but I park on grass so its hard to tell, I have been underneath it several times and cant see anything coolant related. I believe it does leak a little oil somewhere, as I do have to add a quart or so between changes, and there is evidence of an oil leak way underneath the engine. But I dont worry about that.
Would a compression tester rented from an Autozone or Oreillys work on this car? Also can anyone recommend a good instructional on the compression/leakdown test? Ive never done one before.
They're considered "loaner" tools, in my experience, you buy the tool and have I think 90 days to return for full refund. Check with your autoparts store to be sure of the details. You may not be able to loan a leak down tester, but they are pretty cheap at tool discount stores like harbor freight.
A compression test is easy, remove the fuse(looks like it's #13) for the fuel pump from the underhood fusebox, start and run the engine until it runs out of fuel. Then remove all the spark plugs and test. #1 cylinder is on the passenger side of the engine on our vehicles.
Here's link to info on leak down test https://www.chevyhhr.net/forums/how-...-engine-56053/
To get to the spark plugs, here's the how-to for removing the airbox, that donbrew just posted up, thanks Don! https://www.chevyhhr.net/forums/how-...-filter-57663/
#7
Ok, thanks everyone. Nice to know that the junk in the intake tubing is "normal". I will have to do something similar to Oldblue.
I will start off with a compression test and go from there.
Hoping its just a coolant leak that I havent found yet.
I will start off with a compression test and go from there.
Hoping its just a coolant leak that I havent found yet.
#8
With the reddish tint to the sludge on the cap, I would want to check the coolant for combustion gases. This post says it's not possible, anyone know if it is? https://www.chevyhhr.net/forums/prob...94/#post789457
#10
Wow that was terrible (sorry, OB) that guy was too shy. Looks like the reason it didn't work for Brandon was that he was putting it in the filler neck. The coolant level needs to be at least a few inches below the tester. This video shows that you can insert it in the recovery tank(and the guy actually talks so you know what's going on).