coolant temp rising when not moving and odd raddle on left side of the engine
Thread Starter
New Member
Joined: 12-09-2019
Posts: 14
From: Kentucky
coolant temp rising when not moving and odd raddle on left side of the engine
Hello! I've got a few problems going on with my beast of a car that i need some help with.
1. the Coolant temp seems to rise when driving slow(<20mph) or idling for a little bit. this does not happen every time, but it has been getting more frequent. it has got to 217 before i noticed it and shut it off immediately. but i hopped on the highway, and in just in a few mins it went right down again to 180. is this a problem with the water pump? or do i need to burp the system. i have noticed a minor leak at the radiator cap, but is that enough to get her that hot? it is something to note that once the temp hits 180, i do not notice the analog gauge move any further up (notably at 217).
2. I have noticed a strange noise on the left side (around the serpentine belt) that i am not sure what it is. i took it up to o'reillys and they said it was my alternator bearing, so i got a new one (was still under warranty) and changed it out to no avail.
I have a clip of the rattle noise
(sorry, i could not find the rules on posting videos or figure out how to embed it into the post.
3. my starter solenoid went out 2 days ago, (so i replaced the whole thing) and twice now i have heard a single click, and it do nothing, but if i pull it back and try again, it works? i was considering getting a job as a pizza delivery driver but i need to make sure she will, start up every time. if someone would have a photo of what wires go to the starter incase i did not put one back on, that would be great!
4. whenever i step on the breaks, i hear a rattle coming from the left side, and it gets decently loud after decelerating off the highway. It is also noticeable when i hit 80+(mph). a mechanic told my father it was a bearing of sorts and not a rotor but was not specific. i can post a recording if needed.
5. whenever i put my key into the ignition and go to start it immediately, it does not want to start. i noticed the best thing to do is wait until the fuel pump shuts off for the best chance of it starting up.
also, sorry again if this stuff has been discussed and solved, if someone would link me to the thread that would be great.
1. the Coolant temp seems to rise when driving slow(<20mph) or idling for a little bit. this does not happen every time, but it has been getting more frequent. it has got to 217 before i noticed it and shut it off immediately. but i hopped on the highway, and in just in a few mins it went right down again to 180. is this a problem with the water pump? or do i need to burp the system. i have noticed a minor leak at the radiator cap, but is that enough to get her that hot? it is something to note that once the temp hits 180, i do not notice the analog gauge move any further up (notably at 217).
2. I have noticed a strange noise on the left side (around the serpentine belt) that i am not sure what it is. i took it up to o'reillys and they said it was my alternator bearing, so i got a new one (was still under warranty) and changed it out to no avail.
I have a clip of the rattle noise
3. my starter solenoid went out 2 days ago, (so i replaced the whole thing) and twice now i have heard a single click, and it do nothing, but if i pull it back and try again, it works? i was considering getting a job as a pizza delivery driver but i need to make sure she will, start up every time. if someone would have a photo of what wires go to the starter incase i did not put one back on, that would be great!
4. whenever i step on the breaks, i hear a rattle coming from the left side, and it gets decently loud after decelerating off the highway. It is also noticeable when i hit 80+(mph). a mechanic told my father it was a bearing of sorts and not a rotor but was not specific. i can post a recording if needed.
5. whenever i put my key into the ignition and go to start it immediately, it does not want to start. i noticed the best thing to do is wait until the fuel pump shuts off for the best chance of it starting up.
also, sorry again if this stuff has been discussed and solved, if someone would link me to the thread that would be great.
Premium Member
Joined: 03-12-2017
Posts: 1,250
From: Phoenix
Dustin, in the future please use drivers side or passenger side when describing issues.
Also year, mileage and engine size. This helps us in diagnostic evaluations.
As for the noise coming from the passenger side of the engine it is more than likely the timing chain and tensioners.
The heat issue is usually the fan.
And with the quick start issue, you already solved that problem by waiting.
Also year, mileage and engine size. This helps us in diagnostic evaluations.
As for the noise coming from the passenger side of the engine it is more than likely the timing chain and tensioners.
The heat issue is usually the fan.
And with the quick start issue, you already solved that problem by waiting.
Moderator
Joined: 01-23-2009
Posts: 26,543
From: Fredericksburg,VA
1) The fan does not come on until about 219F, 217F is not worry territory. It is going to get warmer when less air is flowing over the rad.
The t-stat keeps the temp UP above 180F.
Check the coolant level by removing the pressure cap when it is cold.
The analog gauge is pretty dumb, don't rely on it.
2) If it goes away after warm up it is the timing chain definitely. Could be anything that moves.
3) The key is designed to turn to start then let go, the computer keeps it cranking until the engine starts.
4) Probably a hub/bearing and/or the Lower Control Arm bushings.
5) The fuel pump does not start until you turn the key to ON, then it runs for about 15 seconds if no start. You may need a new fuel pump, it sounds like it is losing prime.
Free mechanic advice is questionable.
The t-stat keeps the temp UP above 180F.
Check the coolant level by removing the pressure cap when it is cold.
The analog gauge is pretty dumb, don't rely on it.
2) If it goes away after warm up it is the timing chain definitely. Could be anything that moves.
3) The key is designed to turn to start then let go, the computer keeps it cranking until the engine starts.
4) Probably a hub/bearing and/or the Lower Control Arm bushings.
5) The fuel pump does not start until you turn the key to ON, then it runs for about 15 seconds if no start. You may need a new fuel pump, it sounds like it is losing prime.
Free mechanic advice is questionable.
Thread Starter
New Member
Joined: 12-09-2019
Posts: 14
From: Kentucky
2.2L 2006 191k miles. and i will refer engine sides like that from now on. Do you think it is safe to drive? it has sounded like that for the last 6 months. do you recommend i park it and change it out or can i keep driving her until i get the parts in
Senior Member
Joined: 04-03-2018
Posts: 249
From: Florida
Hello! I've got a few problems going on with my beast of a car that i need some help with.
1. the Coolant temp seems to rise when driving slow(<20mph) or idling for a little bit. this does not happen every time, but it has been getting more frequent. it has got to 217 before i noticed it and shut it off immediately. but i hopped on the highway, and in just in a few mins it went right down again to 180. is this a problem with the water pump? or do i need to burp the system. i have noticed a minor leak at the radiator cap, but is that enough to get her that hot? it is something to note that once the temp hits 180, i do not notice the analog gauge move any further up (notably at 217).
1. the Coolant temp seems to rise when driving slow(<20mph) or idling for a little bit. this does not happen every time, but it has been getting more frequent. it has got to 217 before i noticed it and shut it off immediately. but i hopped on the highway, and in just in a few mins it went right down again to 180. is this a problem with the water pump? or do i need to burp the system. i have noticed a minor leak at the radiator cap, but is that enough to get her that hot? it is something to note that once the temp hits 180, i do not notice the analog gauge move any further up (notably at 217).
I'm not happy with the temp fluctuating that much either (180 to 217).
Unless you want to reprogram the ECM or other serious mods, then just monitor the engine temp with the DIC and if it gets above a temp you are comfortable with then just turn on the A/C or Defroster which in turn turns on the radiator fan which will bring the temp back down and keep it in the 180s. I don't let it get above 200°.
Being in S Florida, I pretty much run the A/C all year unless it's comfortable out and I'm on the highway.
Thread Starter
New Member
Joined: 12-09-2019
Posts: 14
From: Kentucky
Not to necro this old thread or anything, but i changed my chains out, and it sounds good. a black guide on the right side broke into several pieces, but other that that, it was alright.
I purchased a kit from amazon and the timing marks where different from the chain in the cloyes (2.2) video. i ended up buying a cloyes chain and copying the markings and now she runs good. i can still kind of hear the chain, but i am thinking it just sounds like that.
I purchased a kit from amazon and the timing marks where different from the chain in the cloyes (2.2) video. i ended up buying a cloyes chain and copying the markings and now she runs good. i can still kind of hear the chain, but i am thinking it just sounds like that.