Cylinder Head Bolts
#12
The head bolts should be new when you do the job because they are "torque turned" and do set after they are installed.
When I did engines like this I found out if I turned the first one to spec/method and went back with just a torque wrench and found the value at which the wrench clicked at I could torque the rest without "torque turn".
I did this not only with head bolts but the conntecting rods and main caps.
I'm called Cat Man because for 32 years I worked at a Caterpillar dealer and built/repaired many a diesel engine. 3516's were the ones I liked to do and they were 263 cubic inch per cylinder.
I don't believe everything an engineer thinks is right/correct and have proven some of them wrong on the projects I was allowed to work on with them.
I always say "Someday's your the bug, someday's your the windshield."
Did have my own repair shop fixing car's also.
OK it's off my chest let's move on.
#14
donbrew
I have the new bolts and I have a torque gauge. I get out of work in a couple of hours
and can't wait to see if the M12 x 1.75 thread chaser fits the #3 holes from your drawing.
I've already ordered a M11 x 1.5 chaser. After this head is on I have a 1999 Cadillac Eldorado
I have to do the heads on (do those guys have an info club too). I got the HHR for $900 but it wouldn't
pass emissions. One of the exhaust valves on the #3 cylinder was dinged up. I drove it for 7 months before
the sticker ran out(Massachusetts). It's a great little car. I want to keep it for at least another 150k miles.
I can't believe how fast answers to my question came in. I've been to the site several times before
but never signed up. I think this is going to avoid a lot of aggravation. Thanks again to everyone who replied.
I have the new bolts and I have a torque gauge. I get out of work in a couple of hours
and can't wait to see if the M12 x 1.75 thread chaser fits the #3 holes from your drawing.
I've already ordered a M11 x 1.5 chaser. After this head is on I have a 1999 Cadillac Eldorado
I have to do the heads on (do those guys have an info club too). I got the HHR for $900 but it wouldn't
pass emissions. One of the exhaust valves on the #3 cylinder was dinged up. I drove it for 7 months before
the sticker ran out(Massachusetts). It's a great little car. I want to keep it for at least another 150k miles.
I can't believe how fast answers to my question came in. I've been to the site several times before
but never signed up. I think this is going to avoid a lot of aggravation. Thanks again to everyone who replied.
#15
#16
Bought a 97 STS in 07 from a guy with a blown head gasket for 7500. Got a hold of a GM test engine, did the timesert deal to the block and used ARP head studs. Never had another problem. Also replaced the lockup torque converter with a 3K and better internal clutch. Really woke that car up. I don't believe head gaskets are a problem with the newer ones, guess I'll find out since I have a 2006 STS V with a supercharged 4.4 Northstar.
#17
The ARP head studs are best for aluminum engines, the TTY bolts are fine for production, but if you spent time, money and effort to rebuild your Ecotec, I recommend them.
I never had a problem in my BBC or SBC engines with aluminium heads.
Henry must of had confidence in studs for the flatheads back in the day!
I never had a problem in my BBC or SBC engines with aluminium heads.
Henry must of had confidence in studs for the flatheads back in the day!
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