DIC going haywire (ESC/Traction Control/reduced engine power)
12-28-2015, 01:20 PM
#1
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Thread Starter
Join Date: 09-06-2015
Location: Tulsa, OK
Posts: 154
DIC going haywire (ESC/Traction Control/reduced engine power)
Yesterday, I drove the 3 hour drive back home. I got about an hour into the trip and I pulled over in a parking lot to check the weather. It was pouring and the traction control had kicked in more during that hour than it had the whole time I've had the car. I don't know if this had anything to do with it or not, but I was parked on an incline with the driver side of the car higher than the passenger side. The DIC went nuts. The following messages appeared: Service traction control, service ESC, engine power reduced. The check engine light also lit up. The car was jerky and ran rough and had little power. I restarted the car and the messages went away but the light stayed on for another 30 miles or so when I stopped for about 5 minutes and started the car, when the light went off. It stayed off until last night when I left for work. I had to pull over 3 or times during the 10 mile trip to work. To make matters worse, we got our first significant winter weather this morning when I could really use the traction control system. I limped home and to the parts house where the error code P2135 showed up.
I did some searching on the forum and I couldn't find the exact problem I was having. Here are the variables that might have affected the car:
-Rain, rain, rain. There was a flash flood warning and the ESC kicked in many times.
-Bad battery? The battery has gone dead several times lately. I understand this can cause the DIC to go crazy. I had the battery tested and both O'Reilly's and Autozone said the battery was good but weak.
- The front brakes need replacing. I don't know if this could have anything to do with it or not.
-Cold, damp weather? It has been cold and rainy the last few days.
I tried reseating the plug that connects to the engine cover, but it didn't help. I made sure the gas cap was on correctly. I unplugged the battery in an attempt to reset the light but it stayed on. I limped home but there was snow/sleet on the roads so I wasn't able to drive at a normal speed anyway.
Should I start off with a new battery? Autozone said that it might be the throttle body, but I think there might be a simpler, less expensive fix. All these error messages at once makes me think that something besides the throttle body is causing the problems. Please tell me it's something simple and cheap.
Help!
I did some searching on the forum and I couldn't find the exact problem I was having. Here are the variables that might have affected the car:
-Rain, rain, rain. There was a flash flood warning and the ESC kicked in many times.
-Bad battery? The battery has gone dead several times lately. I understand this can cause the DIC to go crazy. I had the battery tested and both O'Reilly's and Autozone said the battery was good but weak.
- The front brakes need replacing. I don't know if this could have anything to do with it or not.
-Cold, damp weather? It has been cold and rainy the last few days.
I tried reseating the plug that connects to the engine cover, but it didn't help. I made sure the gas cap was on correctly. I unplugged the battery in an attempt to reset the light but it stayed on. I limped home but there was snow/sleet on the roads so I wasn't able to drive at a normal speed anyway.
Should I start off with a new battery? Autozone said that it might be the throttle body, but I think there might be a simpler, less expensive fix. All these error messages at once makes me think that something besides the throttle body is causing the problems. Please tell me it's something simple and cheap.
Help!
12-28-2015, 02:02 PM
#2
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Join Date: 01-23-2009
Location: Fredericksburg, Virginia
Posts: 24,688
I suspect a bad throttle body.
A bad throttle body can continually "seek" , even when the key is off, this can cause the battery to run down. The good news is a new throttle body goes for around $100 on eBay.
Or, could be a bad alternator.
Or, a bad connection on the fuse box.
A bad throttle body can continually "seek" , even when the key is off, this can cause the battery to run down. The good news is a new throttle body goes for around $100 on eBay.
Or, could be a bad alternator.
Or, a bad connection on the fuse box.
12-28-2015, 02:44 PM
#4
Platinum Member
Join Date: 12-06-2009
Location: Alabama
Posts: 11,094
Well. Since bugo has had previous threads and posts regarding dead batteries, jump starters, USB port battery drain questions etc., etc. I'm thinking it's going be a battery, charging system and/or connection problem.
There have been many previous posts on this site that show that the HHR's electrical system can go "bonkers" with a low voltage situation. The info center "lighting up like a Christmas tree" has been mentioned before.
Time to find a good automotive electrical tech to help you track down the problem.
Battery,ground wire , alternator, loose positive connection, voltage drain......we can make many Internet guesses but you need a hands on approach to locate the problem.
There have been many previous posts on this site that show that the HHR's electrical system can go "bonkers" with a low voltage situation. The info center "lighting up like a Christmas tree" has been mentioned before.
Time to find a good automotive electrical tech to help you track down the problem.
Battery,ground wire , alternator, loose positive connection, voltage drain......we can make many Internet guesses but you need a hands on approach to locate the problem.
12-28-2015, 03:19 PM
#5
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Join Date: 04-09-2006
Location: Vancouver, BC, Canada
Posts: 7,032
Agreed with all the above suggestions.
You say " both O'Reilly's and Autozone said the battery is good but weak"? Well, you need to get that resolved - Do you have a voltmeter? Did you measure the battery voltage with the engine off, and then test it when it is running?
If you don't have a voltmeter, then take it to a shop where they can do diagnostics.
You say " both O'Reilly's and Autozone said the battery is good but weak"? Well, you need to get that resolved - Do you have a voltmeter? Did you measure the battery voltage with the engine off, and then test it when it is running?
If you don't have a voltmeter, then take it to a shop where they can do diagnostics.
12-28-2015, 03:37 PM
#6
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Join Date: 06-30-2010
Location: Kannapolis NC
Posts: 25,739
X2
bugo, as pointed out in several threads and by George in post #4 above, you're doing what I call "circling the drain".
No matter what advice has been given, you're running around in circles in a misguided attempt to avoid the obvious.
You're battery is either bad, or your alternator isn't up to snuff(or both), we're trying to help...but stop for a second and process the input you're getting.
If you see ten doctors and specialists, and they say your appendix has to come out, don't buy sinus medication.
bugo, as pointed out in several threads and by George in post #4 above, you're doing what I call "circling the drain".
No matter what advice has been given, you're running around in circles in a misguided attempt to avoid the obvious.
You're battery is either bad, or your alternator isn't up to snuff(or both), we're trying to help...but stop for a second and process the input you're getting.
If you see ten doctors and specialists, and they say your appendix has to come out, don't buy sinus medication.
12-28-2015, 04:01 PM
#7
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Join Date: 10-13-2011
Location: Welland,Ont Canada
Posts: 36,493
12-28-2015, 06:49 PM
#8
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: 09-06-2015
Location: Tulsa, OK
Posts: 154
The reason I was hesitant is because 2 parts stores said the battery was good but was discharged. I'm not exactly made of money. I went ahead and bought a new battery today and the car still does the same thing, I'm out nearly $150 and the car still won't run. I'm going to have to break down and take it to the shop now. Thanks to those who helped me.
12-29-2015, 12:54 AM
#9
Platinum Member
Join Date: 04-09-2006
Location: Vancouver, BC, Canada
Posts: 7,032
Well can't you figure out from your statement that the battery was good but was discharged that Obviously something is wrong, and isn't keeping your battery charged!!!!! So you replaced the battery anyways?
Good luck in dealing with the shop.
I'm out of this one.
Good luck in dealing with the shop.
I'm out of this one.
12-29-2015, 02:04 AM
#10
Deceased
Join Date: 06-30-2010
Location: Kannapolis NC
Posts: 25,739
Hmm..well bugo, we're not suggesting that you're made of money, nobody here is.
Heck man, I'm paying on two mortgages, the deductibles from my Wife's recent bout with cancer, and because of the need to have a funeral for my Wife's Grandmother who passed away on Christmas Eve. We are paying for Millicent's funeral because Michelle's parents are barely keeping their heads above water due to the expenses of her Mother being injured in August.
We're offering up advice to try and save you money, and our advice questioning the health of your battery and alternator, plus other known electrical trouble spots is/was intended to keep your expenses down.
A battery that tested "good but weak" is like saying, well Uncle Fred is dying, but he's hanging in there.
You've now removed the battery as a variable, the fact that HHR batteries don't come cheap, sucks...but it is what it is.
Did you have your charging system checked, becsuse the "good but weak" battery was in that shape for a reason. And being that you're still having issues points to possible loose wiring at the underhood power center, a failing alternator, or a parasitic electrical drain in the vehicle.
Go back over the threads, make a checklist, and knock things off the list as you check them or have them checked.
Unfortunately, HHR electrical systems are complex, and issues with low or fluctuating voltage will cause them to go utterly nuts.
One other note, you can try what we call a "Lobotomy". Disconnect the NEGATIVE battery cable for a minumum of thirty minutes, just unhook it and walk away. Grab a snack, have a cup of joe, take a smoke break if you're a smoker. Then reattach the NEGATIVE battery cable and see if your HHR settles down, the purpose of a "Lobotomy" is to reset the modules in the electrical system to their factory defaults.
It might sound dumb, but it does work more often than not.
Heck man, I'm paying on two mortgages, the deductibles from my Wife's recent bout with cancer, and because of the need to have a funeral for my Wife's Grandmother who passed away on Christmas Eve. We are paying for Millicent's funeral because Michelle's parents are barely keeping their heads above water due to the expenses of her Mother being injured in August.
We're offering up advice to try and save you money, and our advice questioning the health of your battery and alternator, plus other known electrical trouble spots is/was intended to keep your expenses down.
A battery that tested "good but weak" is like saying, well Uncle Fred is dying, but he's hanging in there.
You've now removed the battery as a variable, the fact that HHR batteries don't come cheap, sucks...but it is what it is.
Did you have your charging system checked, becsuse the "good but weak" battery was in that shape for a reason. And being that you're still having issues points to possible loose wiring at the underhood power center, a failing alternator, or a parasitic electrical drain in the vehicle.
Go back over the threads, make a checklist, and knock things off the list as you check them or have them checked.
Unfortunately, HHR electrical systems are complex, and issues with low or fluctuating voltage will cause them to go utterly nuts.
One other note, you can try what we call a "Lobotomy". Disconnect the NEGATIVE battery cable for a minumum of thirty minutes, just unhook it and walk away. Grab a snack, have a cup of joe, take a smoke break if you're a smoker. Then reattach the NEGATIVE battery cable and see if your HHR settles down, the purpose of a "Lobotomy" is to reset the modules in the electrical system to their factory defaults.
It might sound dumb, but it does work more often than not.