Yes we did a cooling system pressure test and cylinder pressure test. On the cooling system test it dropped about 1 psi over the course of a half hour or more.

 

I just did the first oil change on my "new to me" engine and was shocked, shocked to find that the oil filler cap was completely dry! I guess my head gasket had been leaking for a long time, as the cap had always had at least an oily residue on it, foam only towards the end.

 

Well it took 27 hours over the past three days but we finally finished. It was a blown head gasket. We pulled the valve cover off and it was coated with an orange goop. Got the head off and the gasket was pulling apart and all warped. We cleaned out every thing and sent the head off to a machine shop for finishing and inspection. While we had all that off we replaced the water pump and the thermostat, which had a warped and broken o-ring. Also had an exhaust leak which was due to a warn exhaust manifold gasket that we replaced.
This was my first time doing anything this invasive on a car. It was a good experience. I will try to post some pictures soon.

 

Great job man. We look forward to the pictures - they might be useful for an article in the HOW-TO forum. :-)

Where did you do the work? In your own garage at home, or?

 

Well my frustration level has just about peaked, if it had peaked there would be an HHR at the bottom of a cliff right now. I am still losing coolant. My friend and I have decided that a "new" engine is the only fix because the only other thing that could be causing this is a cracked block.

 

Sorry to hear that, but it doesn't take too much to crack an aluminum block, to avoid compatibility issues...try to match the replacement engine to your model year.

 

That's what she said! And me too, like I said it is just cheaper and safer to get a junkyard engine because you just know what else has happened. You should be able to get a used engine with less than 10K for around $750 shipped, try your local "Auto Recycler". Labor for install is about $1200. Roll your own.

 

I am looking at one from a local junk yard for $800 with 27k on it. I will just replace it on my own with help from a friend.

 

UPDATE: A few weeks ago I decided to try one last ditch effort to try and save the engine. Despite what others said I figured I didn't have much to lose so I put in some Stop Leak to see if it would work. So far I have had no issues. After about three weeks I popped the radiator hose cap off to check it and for the first time since this all started there was fuild in the hose and there was fuild still in the reservoir. So it seems that I have stopped the leak, at least for now.

 

Me too. I have a 98 Dodge truck I don't drive alot. It started leaking around the timing cover after I changed the water pump. Seeped for 2 years! Finally as a last ditch effort(or laziness), I put in some Stop Leak. Been dry now for over 2 years. No leaks.