door lock problem
03-22-2022, 04:18 PM
#1
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Join Date: 12-18-2005
Location: Middle Village, NY
Posts: 1,791
door lock problem
Here is a strange one. The drivers side door lock only works with the remote when it is cold outside. Anytime it is over about 60 degrees, it will not lock or unlock But it works fine when it is cold out it works fine. All of the other 3 door locks are fine. Why would this happen?
03-23-2022, 12:13 AM
#4
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Join Date: 12-05-2014
Location: Northern Ohio
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Not exactly clear. Are saying this only happens with the remote, and the locks work normally when you use the switch in the door?
Heat makes solenoids and motors weaker due to increased resistance. Also gets less power to the actuator for the same reason. The difference won’t be a lot but it’s one possible explanation.
I seem to remember a prior thread somewhere here found a damaged wire under the driver seat that apparently increased the circuit resistance enough to cause a similar problem.
Heat makes solenoids and motors weaker due to increased resistance. Also gets less power to the actuator for the same reason. The difference won’t be a lot but it’s one possible explanation.
I seem to remember a prior thread somewhere here found a damaged wire under the driver seat that apparently increased the circuit resistance enough to cause a similar problem.
03-23-2022, 02:55 PM
#6
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Join Date: 12-05-2014
Location: Northern Ohio
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So the remote is irrelevant.
The driver door lock only works in cool weather, not in hot.
See my prior comment. The actuator is marginal for the job, and heat unmasks the problem. I think the possibilities are that there’s something wrong with it, like a short in a coil, or because something’s keeping it from getting enough juice, or there’s too much drag in the mechanism (dry, rusty, damaged, defective, or something.)
A short in the coil MIGHT blow the fuse.
I should have asked what year. My 2008 seems to have wimpy lock solenoids (or motors?) that gradually got less and less reliable and after blowing 5-6 fuses I just gave up, probably before the car was ten years old. My 2011 door locks operate with much greater authority (louder) and are trouble-free.
The driver door lock only works in cool weather, not in hot.
See my prior comment. The actuator is marginal for the job, and heat unmasks the problem. I think the possibilities are that there’s something wrong with it, like a short in a coil, or because something’s keeping it from getting enough juice, or there’s too much drag in the mechanism (dry, rusty, damaged, defective, or something.)
A short in the coil MIGHT blow the fuse.
I should have asked what year. My 2008 seems to have wimpy lock solenoids (or motors?) that gradually got less and less reliable and after blowing 5-6 fuses I just gave up, probably before the car was ten years old. My 2011 door locks operate with much greater authority (louder) and are trouble-free.
03-24-2022, 09:33 PM
#7
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Thread Starter
Join Date: 12-18-2005
Location: Middle Village, NY
Posts: 1,791
So the remote is irrelevant.
The driver door lock only works in cool weather, not in hot.
See my prior comment. The actuator is marginal for the job, and heat unmasks the problem. I think the possibilities are that there’s something wrong with it, like a short in a coil, or because something’s keeping it from getting enough juice, or there’s too much drag in the mechanism (dry, rusty, damaged, defective, or something.)
A short in the coil MIGHT blow the fuse.
I should have asked what year. My 2008 seems to have wimpy lock solenoids (or motors?) that gradually got less and less reliable and after blowing 5-6 fuses I just gave up, probably before the car was ten years old. My 2011 door locks operate with much greater authority (louder) and are trouble-free.
The driver door lock only works in cool weather, not in hot.
See my prior comment. The actuator is marginal for the job, and heat unmasks the problem. I think the possibilities are that there’s something wrong with it, like a short in a coil, or because something’s keeping it from getting enough juice, or there’s too much drag in the mechanism (dry, rusty, damaged, defective, or something.)
A short in the coil MIGHT blow the fuse.
I should have asked what year. My 2008 seems to have wimpy lock solenoids (or motors?) that gradually got less and less reliable and after blowing 5-6 fuses I just gave up, probably before the car was ten years old. My 2011 door locks operate with much greater authority (louder) and are trouble-free.
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