Driver side window not working
 

The driver side window stop working. I replaced the regulator with a new one. But when I applied power to the old one it worked!! I bought a new switch assembly with a new one. (I think it was new) It did not cure my problem. I checked and there is no power going to the motor. I check all fuses pertaining to the power windows. All windows work except the drivers side.

WHAT AM I MISSING ??

The embarrassing question is what about the lock out?

The lock out is working !

Which window, front or rear?

The wire must have a break in it, both wires come directly from the switch. The driver switch has some sort of logic built in for the "one touch toll" feature.

The conduit plugs into the door, could be failure point.

I'am not getting power to the up/down switch. How does the voltage get to the switch ? All windows work except the drivers side !!

Assuming this is a 2006

https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.che...34352ff7c5.png
https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.che...fa3411c6fa.png

I have replaced the window switch with two NEW ones and the drivers side window still will not work. I hear a clicking but there is no window movement. Could it be the EXPRESS LOCK ? Is this not part of the window switch?? If not where is this EXPRESS LOCK ?

This is on a 2010 HHR !

If you hear clicking either the motor is bad or you didn't install the regulator right.

The wiring is pretty simple, no scary computers involved. Dare I say: take the door panel off and observe?

Here is the 2010 circuit; the other 2 windows are typical of the left rear shown.

https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.che...43043278bb.png

I'll ask again, is this driver side front or rear? It matters.

And which switch did you replace?

I installed a new motor assembly. Both the old one and the new one works when I supply 12 Volots directly to the motors.

I have been assuming "driver's side windows" means the side window for the driver. If not, then my first question stands. You are aware of the window lock button on the driver's front door? That little button forward of the other buttons, has a red stripe on it as an indicator. When the switch is in lock mode the rear window switches are disabled.

https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.che...5410d139dc.png

Yes I am talking about the drivers side window. Mine has a indicator lamp. This is working. The light comes on and off. This is true for the original switch and both of the new switches I have. When I try to put the window up or down I hear a relay but nothing happens. There is no voltage comeing out of the switch.

There is no relay! Look at the wiring diagrams.

Well, there is the RAP relay as noted on the diagram, but that should affect all of the windows.

It sure does sound like a relay ! It makes a sound !!

Leroy!
Lets get your window working. So you got a 2010 HHR. I assume we are talking about the front left window. You replaced the motor, but you tested the old motor and it works. How did you test it? You replaced the switch with a used switch? Did you look at the drawing that DonBrew posted? Do you understand the drawing? When you pop the driver window switch out, you need to check voltages.
You should read 12volts between the Blk wire and the Brown wire when you press the Down button
You should read 12volts between the Blk wire and the Drk Blu wire when you press the Up button

This is just a process, this by no means proves that your switch is functional. I see lots of switches that can pass a voltage but can not pass current. But lets just make sure you are getting these voltages here before we get too deep. If you had the pigtail that plugs into a driver door switch, this is idea to check continuity thru the switches. I would always ask permission before cutting pigtails off at junkyards, most do not care at all.

With limited knowledge about your car, I am betting on either a bad switch (had one myself) or like Don Brew said a bad wire, specifically inside that corrugated rubber tube where it jumps from the door to the body. Keep us posted with your findings and we will keep feeding you info until we get this resolved.

I am not home this week so I can not look at the HHR. The driver side will not move. When I move the switch there is some kind of klicking sound. As if there is a relay ! I checked out the old regulator and the new one by suppling 12 VDC direct to the plug. Both will move. Reverse the wires and the motors reverse. I can not tell what wire supplies voltage to the switch. When I get home I will check out the wiring that goes though the door. WHAT COLOR WIRE IS THE SUPPLY ? DKGRN Pin H ?

Yup. I would print out the drawing so you got something to refernece as you are troubleshooting.

It seems you are checking for voltage from the switch to the motor... Do you have voltage going from the harness into the switch?

Yes I am checking at the conector that plugs into the motor.. I can not get a test light to light. But if I check the conector when it is un pluged with a meter I get 9 Volts. It is as if the switch will not pass the voltage. And I do have 12 Volts on the yellow wire at the switch.

Drivers side electric window
 

My Drivers side electric window will not move yp or down. I have a new motor and switch. All othwer windows work. I here a clicking oming from the switch. There is no voltage going to the motor.

Is there a circut sowing the teminals on the switch?

Is there a 'lock out saftey I am overlooking?'

Assuming you have a 2006: The lock out only applies to the rear windows.
Nothing between the switch and the motor but wires and the connectors in the conduit.

No it is a 2010 HHR!

If it is only the driver window that the master switch does not control it must be wires.

On the master module brown and dark blue go to the motor, depends on position of switch which is + and -.
the yellow is the acc power (on the RetainedAccessoryPower relay). Also goes to the front passenger switch.
Dark Green is power from the windows fuse, it goes to each door switch.

These new posts have been moved to OP's original thread about this.

Maybe this time he will specify if the problem is with the front or the rear window.

I'm out.

Post #14 #23 seems to say this is only the driver window.
The only way I can figure you are measuring 9 volts is if you are checking at the diode.
Any clicking is coming from the motor trying.

The yellow wire turns the power off after a couple of minutes of turning the key off. So it indicates nothing except the key must be on to check the voltages.
Yes there is a "circut sowing the teminals on the switch" on the first page of this thread. The numbers for the pins and the colors are noted.

Have you considered the regulator may be binding?

Driver side window 2010 HHR
 

I ran the window to the up position by suppling 12 VDC directly to the connector. It will also go down by Appling 12 VDC in in reverse. All of the widows work except the driver’s side.

There is no voltage coming out of the switch. I also checked the black wire to ground. And I can not find the wiring circurt!

To reverse a DC motor you flip the polarity.

Here is the important part of the diagram again (if only the driver's window is the problem). The wire colors are noted and the terminal numbers are noted.

https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.che...9586d617dc.png

Item 32 Where is it
 

https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.che...41a8c3c4fa.jpg
https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.che...5a612c0dfe.jpg

The other side of the pinky red connector

Please take another look
 

Item # 32 is notr there. Item 31 is but it is for the HVAC. In the photo this is in rthe upper right hand corner.

READ Oldblues post above.
And NOTE 31 and 32 in the diagram show a "broken" line image which means they aren't visible from the outside.
https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.che...4610367479.png

https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.che...7eec886c0d.jpg

Hint: dotted lines indicate not seen in this view.

invisible.......

Claude Raines couldn’t see it!

I inastalled anoher window switch. Still the drivers window will not move. As I have said before I also installed a new motor. I can get he motor to move by appling voltaage directly to the plug. I have no voltage coming out of the switch! I do have voltage on the small wires going to the switch. (Small yellow & Green?)




Again I say I hear something that sounds like a relay when I move the switch in the down and up mode. And the fuses are good Item 17 is the one next to the radio and the fuse under the hood! I am at the end of the road on things to check Is there a fuse behind the RAP ? I will try to send a photo of the back side of the switch to show thew small wires!

Look in here

https://www.chevyhhr.net/forums/prob...o-50978/page3/

it might help

I looked at the BCM fuse label and found that fuse #17 is listed as "WNDW RAP". That would affect BOTH front windows.




If you hear something like a relay, that is the motor trying to turn. Something is binding it.